trash pump questions

[Goldwasher]

I know what milky oil is caused by and why its bad bad with a water cooled engine

Is there an interface between pump and motor on a trash pump that could fail and get water into the case?

No oil in the water side. I am chalking it up to condensation.

Someone who knows small motors... what say ye?

 

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[Goldwasher]

not plastic.

I don't break things to get them apart. I don't think it was designed for that.

I don't have to rush it. I'm just gonna snipe until the water is gone. Start the next wet season with a new pump and a fixed back up.

 

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[Assembler]

not plastic.

I don't break things to get them apart. I don't think it was designed for that.

I don't have to rush it. I'm just gonna snipe until the water is gone. Start the next wet season with a new pump and a fixed back up.

If there is no rush put a few drops of light oil like tri-flow lubricant and let it soak in to help with freeing the impeller from the shaft.

 

[Bonaro]

not plastic.

I don't break things to get them apart. I don't think it was designed for that.

I don't have to rush it. I'm just gonna snipe until the water is gone. Start the next wet season with a new pump and a fixed back up.

I dont think is was designed to squirt water into the crankcase but it seems to be. If it wont come apart then you have to do what it takes...or not...do what you want because its your pump. When asking for advice it would be helpful if you weren't so mysterious about what you have.

 

[Goldwasher]

mysterious? i'm busy. my spidey senses were riight before i ever posed a question here.

in the morning i will post the totally unmysterious plcs that show not all briggs motors are mounted to pacer pumps that all have plastic impellers

.....smh

 

[Bonaro]

mysterious? i'm busy. my spidey senses were riight before i ever posed a question here.

in the morning i will post the totally unmysterious plcs that show not all briggs motors are mounted to pacer pumps that all have plastic impellers

.....smh

It wasn't until 20 posts in that you shared it was a Briggs motor after someone had to ask. You never did say what kind of pump it was unless the comment above is some kind of disclosure. Don't bother wasting your time posting pics...I could not care less. I hope you have enough time to figure out your future problems all by yourself.

 

[Goldwasher]

lol. Sheesh Bonaroo..

I posted this a day I came home to see if anyone had had a similar pump do the same sort of thing. Branding didn't matter at the time.

Briggs motors are mated to several brands of pumps...in fact over the years I've seen pump brands change out pump styles and and motor brands.

The design company to company is pretty much the same. I already knew there would be a pump seal and a main seal in the case.

They could all potentially have the same issue.

The pump was still in the bush. I was going to go back the next day and deal with it.

I figured if anyone would have had a trash pump that injected water into the crankcase it would be here. ANY BRAND !

Just like the few people I did ask in person, most here initially said it wasn't typical or even possible.

As mentioned the water leak noticed was sudden.

The best I could do to trouble shoot in the field is change the oil and see if running it caused the same problem.

What happened? Well, like I suspected water was getting in the case.

No, one helped me figure that out, it wasn't condensation as most thought it would be.


END OF ORIGINAL POINT OF THREAD

I happened to come home update the thread and mention

"now only if I can get off the impeller"

Because I tried to get it off by turning and pulling etc.

I will figure it out.

Since some added suggestions I gave a little info. Yes its a Briggs....with every label but the briggs label missing or faded. The pump has no name on it anywhere.

Notice that's when some just plain wrong information was added from someone who wasn't me. Including criticism for not breaking stuff to get my pump apart.

I did get good advice from the majority of comments.

I apologize to everyone if I was too mysterious with the facts about my pump and motor. This thread was started to help me clarify my own thoughts on what was happening before I decided to hike the motor out for the season knowing I wouldn't be hiking it back or another until fall either way.

Hoping someone would have experienced it before as well. Sorry you thought I was playing some sort of game Bonoroo.

 

[Rail Dawg]

You’re a good man Goldwasher.

Most of us read and learn from what you write.

 

[Assembler]

This one had no problem not knowing the make or brand of pump or engine. The process of elimination is close to the same no mater what the brand or make thereof. Heck at first did not even know if the engine was air or water cooled.....LOL.

Forgot to add that some times one out in the field can take a paper clip wire (straightened out) to clean out grit or dirt from a crankshaft oil seal. This will some times work to give just a littler longer use or life. Best to replace the seal as soon as possible.

 

[Goldwasher]

Part of the mystery would be that this is an older pump

One of the stickers had enough words to figure out that it is a northstar pump

Northern tool carries that brand now coupled to Honda motors.

I found a model number but only get links to the honda motor pump combos.

So in the pic where the back of the pump housing met the motor is where water was coming out.

The pump seal must have failed and there was enough pressure against the main seal that water could get in. What I saw was escaping the housing.

As you can see there is no way to get any kind of strap wrench on the impeller.

That leads me to believe it is a tapered keyed shaft.

I will keep trying to figure it out.

I do appreciate input from anyone who has had to pull an impeller like this.

Drilling it to get something to spin it backwards is pointless if it isn't a threaded shaft.

Sorry for the super offensive delay in pictures.

 

[Assembler]

Heat from a torch should break the fit / bind of the tapered keyed shaft / impeller. Both a tap from a hammer and 2 - 3 wedges around the edge of the impeller should free it. Be sure to soak the shaft the best you can with some light oil first.
Replace all seals for sure then assemble back together. Make a record of the types, numbers and size of the seals for yourself or others later.

 

[winners58]

just leave it open like that, take it to a farm/AG irrigation pump repair store that sells the pump seal
have them bust the impeller off, they probably have a tool... might cost ya $30 or less...
what's it worth to not have bleeding knuckles...

example; http://www.pacag.com/ where i got the replacement rubber flapper for my 4" sure-flo footvalve

 

[The1rod]

Around the end of the shaft there appears to be three holes? Are those holes that can be clean out or are they casting marks? Most taper locks I have seen have three holes like this that are threaded, you run bolts through them and against the back housing, or more often a taper bushing and it pushes the impeller off. It could also potentially have a taper bushing on the backside that bolts into the impeller holding it tight to the shaft. Hopefully now that you have some info on the pump you can find a parts diagram to show exactly what your dealing with.

 

[gold tramp]

Get sierra blaster. Put behind impeler blow it off !!
Gt....

 

[Goldwasher]

Around the end of the shaft there appears to be three holes? Are those holes that can be clean out or are they casting marks? Most taper locks I have seen have three holes like this that are threaded, you run bolts through them and against the back housing, or more often a taper bushing and it pushes the impeller off. It could also potentially have a taper bushing on the backside that bolts into the impeller holding it tight to the shaft. Hopefully now that you have some info on the pump you can find a parts diagram to show exactly what your dealing with.

just casting marks unfortunately

 

[Assembler]

just leave it open like that, take it to a farm/AG irrigation pump repair store that sells the pump seal
have them bust the impeller off, they probably have a tool... might cost ya $30 or less...
what's it worth to not have bleeding knuckles...

example; Pacific Ag Systems, Inc - Irrigation sales and service in Oregon's southern and central Willamette Valley where i got the replacement rubber flapper for my 4" sure-flo footvalve

The farm / AG shop should have a slide hammer that will work on the impeller along with some heat to help with removing it.

 

[winners58]

It's more likely a threaded impeller because it does not have the bolt in the center,
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq_KWp-UZ34

 

[Assembler]

It will be important to find out from the pump manufacture if the impeller is threaded. Most likely it is looking at the picture.