No One Answering Your Post?..

StoneWhisper

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Lets start off by asking yourself.. why isn't anyone answering my post?.. perhaps it's your images.. we all could use a refresher course in learning how to take better pics.. No I'm not saying I'm a pro at this either.. having bad hands myself. I have a hard time being able to hold the camera steady enough. Thou relying on the shutter speed to take the image.

Here is a few things that we all can learn to use when taking images;

1) mirrors offer extra light or actually redirecting light to and under your sample.
2) using natural light can help or over power your image.. Try using filtered light.
3) getting to close.. yep.. we all do it.. these smaller cameras tend to draw our weak eyes in without focusing correctly.. and or we are not allowing the camera to act naturally. meaning not allowing the camera or our selves time to actually focus on what we want it to.
4) Steady your camera, using a table chair etc to rest your camera can and will allow the camera to adjust correctly.
5) All it to work for you.. one thing we all have an issue with is getting to excited in taking a pic.. and not allowing the camera to react in time.. case in point the lens zooms in and out and finds a range of things in focus.. typically its not the rock but the foreground or back ground.
6) wait for it.. the beep that is.. but when you wait for the beep or cursor/cross hairs to appear go back to check to see what its telling you that you've focused on.. if it's not focusing on what you want it to.. you may need to repeat a few of the steps above.

Here is what's so frustrating.. we all want to zoom in without really zooming in.. and unless you have a microscope.. best keep your distance. allow the camera to take the pic.. take several actually try different settings.. I've found that, i get within 4 feet of the subject then take a pic.. return to my comp and use the editing software either what came with the camera or sites like photobucket etc..

Mind you this image:

DSCF1114.JPG

was taking out side (which I dont like doing) but it came out very well.. and again I'm still learning with this new camera fujifilm xp60..

Or this image:

DSCF1110.JPG
take note of how I've moved or placed the stone in the sunlight to allow shadows on and under the small crystal nodules.. hey I'm not perfect.. nor is anyone else.. just helps get replies when your images is worth looking at.
 

Silver Worm

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Is there a test afterwards?
Can I go to the bathroom?
Do you allow gum chewing?
This is boring?
You're not from around here are you.
 

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Silver Worm

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Anyway, that's the kind of questions I got from my students.
 

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Bajahunter

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Mar 26, 2011
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Silver... your answers.
Yes It's on Saint Peters final exam.

Yes, but you can't leave your seat.

I thought that was cud in your mouth.

When I have a whole class of morons like you, yes it gets boring.

Correct. I am not your cousin, like everyone else in town.
 

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Bajahunter

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Mar 26, 2011
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Stone man
I personally like natural outdoor light.
However you are correct, a good foto is important. If it looks blurry on your cell phone camera it's going to look blurry on my cell phone screen.
In addition to your advice I would stress making the stone the majority of your picture. I don't need to see your hand or your back yard in the background. Take a picture of the rock or gem and only that.
Now lets get serious about the info we need to help you ID your rock.
Hardness, streak color, fracture, cleavage. type of terrain and associated rock where it was found, are all things that will help.
Telling me your rock is heavy is like saying the sky is blue. It is meaningless. Only two or three types of rocks are light...the rest are heavy.
Second it is often harder to identify a rock than a mineral. Minerals have very distintive traits. Rocks are made up of many types of minerals and vary widely from place to place.
If you don't get a quick answer it might be because it was a tough question.
 

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StoneWhisper

StoneWhisper

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Here is a for instance:

A few months ago when I had my old Kodak camera, I took these two images in the hopes that I would return to the internet or at least be able to edit them.

100E1848.JPG 100E1850.JPG

As you can see Im using a small light box and two mirrors, thou the light source is still weak, I'm able to use the images. Now that I've return to the internet and actually have a computer at home which has a photo editing software with my new camera fujifilm xp60 I was able to edit the images so that one can see just the stones.

100E1848 Crop.jpg 100E1850 Crop.jpg

These two images are just cropped or edited images of the ones above.. and this is how I do things. yet if you don't have software that allows you to edit like this.. again sites like photobucket offer editing services. So as long as your within range and the image is set to its highest resolution, editing would/will be easy.

Note: The stones do appear shinny, more so than normal.. due to the fact that I had just washed them. getting the stones wet does enhance their appearance.
 

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hvacker

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StoneWhisper is right, quality makes all the difference. Ever try to ID a rock that's out of focus and has a serious color shift? On line auctions often have poor pictures. Check them out to learn what not to do.
I like artificial light best as it's easier to control shadows/highlights. A simple setup is to drape a piece of white paper over something to create a back ground, keep the subject a foot or so from the back of the paper, buy a cheap reflector work light with a flood light bulb to fill in the shadows then using the camera's flash for the main light. The flash should correct the color shift from the flood light. While not as great as three strobes the price is right.
Find a way to not hand hold the camera. If worried about shake just bump the ISO a tad.
A polarizing filter will reduce shiny objects. If you start doing a bunch of work it might be worth it. Some camera's auto-focus might not work with them..
If you want to use natural light, understand there is more color saturation when the shadows are long. Usually before 10 am and after about 3 or 4 pm. Near noon will probably be closer to what might be called normal although I like the saturation.
 

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StoneWhisper

StoneWhisper

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Very well said HV.. I did like that you mentioned the time frame best suited for taking these kinds of shots.. True and I forget to mention it myself.. Early morning or late afternoon seem to be the best time to take any sort of picture.. shadows are cast and your not getting that harsh sunlight associated with the middle of the day.
 

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