Newbie question

[neuralsnafu]

Is there an appreciable difference between the Garrett ace 250, 300, and 400?

I've just been perusing on Amazon and they seem to be within 50-75$ of each other. This will be my first detector, but I'm not scared of a bit of technicalities (use oscilloscopes to diagnose cars).

Usage will be hunting around the lakes here in Oklahoma, and the few beaches on them.

Any advice would be appreciated!

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Minelab PRO-FIND 35 Waterproof Pinpointer Metal Detector for Experts with Tone ID & Adjustable Sensitivity - Grab it through Amazon!

[Carolina Tom]

400 is the top of the bottom line detectors. If you want an ACE, get the 400.

If you can afford more, the AT Max is their flagship, and a considerably better detector that the 400.

I started with a Bounty Hunter (6 weeks), the an AT Pro (3 months), then a Deus (3+ years). Like any hobby, if you end up liking it, you will want better gear. Buying the best right out of the chute is my recommendation, but I understand that people don't like to drop $1000+ on something that they MIGHT use only a few times.

Good luck brother, and let me know if I can help.

 

[Loco-Digger]

I see the difference as the Ace 250 will show target ranges, but no target ID number on the display. Both the 300 & 400 will show target ID numbers as well as the target range. All 3 run a different frequency. 250 = 6.5 khz, the 300 8 khz and the 400 runs at 10khz.

I use the Kellyco site where you can review up to 3 or 4 detector specifications side by side.

Personally I like to see target ID numbers and not just a target range.

Many of us got into the hobby on the cheap but over time have evolved to flag ship detectors. I started with an el cheapo TC-1023 after 60 days it paid for itself and I bought a used Fisher F4. It more than paid for itself in about 4 months and now I swing the Fisher F75LTD.

If you really think this hobby is for you I'd start in the mid range. What sounds do you want to hear? The Garrett bell-tones, standard tones or the minelab bwoop=bwoop sounds. Just know that the sound is what we all key in on when detecting and the target ID numbers are useful to verify what we think we are detecting whether it's more than likely trash or treasure.

GL & HH

 

[Icewing]

There's a reason the market is flooded with cheap used Garretts and Bounty Hunters.
It's the same reason you don't see a lot of them listed under people's user names.
To be fair they do make a good pinpointer.

 

[junkhunt]

Is there an appreciable difference between the Garrett ace 250, 300, and 400?

I've just been perusing on Amazon and they seem to be within 50-75$ of each other. This will be my first detector, but I'm not scared of a bit of technicalities (use oscilloscopes to diagnose cars).

Usage will be hunting around the lakes here in Oklahoma, and the few beaches on them.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

You may want to think about the White's V3i.

 

[Loco-Digger]

Take time and watch as many online videos of different makes and models that are in your price range. I personally like DD coils over concentric, but there are others who are just the opposite. Look at the screens of many models. How do you want the data displayed?

 

[neuralsnafu]

You may want to think about the White's V3i.

1400$ is a tad bit out of budget...

I see the difference as the Ace 250 will show target ranges, but no target ID number on the display. Both the 300 & 400 will show target ID numbers as well as the target range. All 3 run a different frequency. 250 = 6.5 khz, the 300 8 khz and the 400 runs at 10khzThe 400 is the only one that can be ground balanced.

I use the Kellyco site where you can review up to 3 or 4 detector specifications side by side.

Personally I like to see target ID numbers and not just a target range.

Many of us got into the hobby on the cheap but over time have evolved to flag ship detectors. I started with an el cheapo TC-1023 after 60 days it paid for itself and I bought a used Fisher F4. It more than paid for itself in about 4 months and now I swing the Fisher F75LTD.

If you really think this hobby is for you I'd start in the mid range. What sounds do you want to hear? The Garrett bell-tones, standard tones or the minelab bwoop=bwoop sounds. Just know that the sound is what we all key in on when detecting and the target ID numbers are useful to verify what we think we are detecting whether it's more than likely trash or treasure.

GL & HH

Not too particular on the tones, as long as they are different for different ranges I think I'll survive, as long as its not like a baby rabbit dying...

From my understanding, the target id is basically the conductivity of what ever is under the detector?

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[Loco-Digger]

I pulled the trigger on an the F70 a few months ago and got a great deal. I am willing to sell it for a great price if your interested, PM for the details.

 

[ansumei]

Hello, everyone!

I need your advice, any help would be appreciated!
I need to buy a metal detector, it is not for me, but for a friend and I have very limited time, thus I dont have time for idependent research. Could you please recommend me, which one is better to buy if:
a) need to detect 2-3m deep
b) price range around 600-700 U.S. Dollars
c) The soil is hard and the altitude is high (but perhaps it isn't relevant).

He is going to search for old artifacts, such as statues, coins and God knows what else...
Which one would be the best choice taking into account the above parameters?

Thank you for reading this!

 

[Jason in Enid]

a) - nothing will detect coin sized objects more than inches. If you can get 12 inches, youre very lucky. Most only get about 6 inches.
b) - 600-700US will get you a mid-line detector. You aren't going to get some with the best depth, the best target ID capability, or the best mineral rejection.
c) - only relevant if that hard soil is full of iron minerals

Most countries have very strict antiquities laws, your friend should should spend a lot of time researching China's laws. Communist countries aren't really known for leniency

 

[neuralsnafu]

Forgot to update this, but I would up using the same philosophy I use when buying tools. Buy once cry once. I ended up getting an at pro.

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[Jason in Enid]

Forgot to update this, but I would up using the same philosophy I use when buying tools. Buy once cry once. I ended up getting an at pro.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

Thats a great detector for the lake beaches here in OK

 

[neuralsnafu]

I got to try it out this afternoon in the back yard. Found a drawer slider and screw lol. I'm pretty sure the previous owner of this house was a machinist and welder so there is a ton of iron out there...

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[Tom_in_CA]

... your friend should should spend a lot of time researching China's laws....

Jason, there's a few dudes from China who have posted md'ing videos on youtube. Granted, they're just md'ing the beach. But a few are from land. And some of the coins they find are older (the cash coins, for instance). I'm assuming the md'ing they're doing is legal . Otherwise wouldn't they be at risk for blatantly making the "look what I found" type videos ?

Granted, they're just fumble fingers hunters. And Granted, they're not looking for "statues". But ... just saying ... this shows me it's not a country that is off-limits, from border to border, for all md'ing'. So probably like ANYWHERE (even the USA and Britain), there's going to be the P's & Q's to be aware of (ie.: avoid obvious historic sensitive monuments). And sure, I have no doubt that perhaps it's more corrupt or stricter. But as the videos show: Not altogether disallowed.

 

[ansumei]

a) - nothing will detect coin sized objects more than inches. If you can get 12 inches, youre very lucky.

As a complete amateur in this question, I mistakenlz thought that the bigger object is the higher detectßability. So I was wrong? He wants to find statues, perhaps houshould items bronze and silber, so bigger than coins, but coins too.

Guys, anyone, please... which model should I look for buy? At least give me some hint... I know that 600-700 is mid-range, but I can buy a more expensive one, he pays. The question is: does he need one? If so, which one?

your friend should should spend a lot of time researching China's laws.

He has a Chinese citizenship and also sells antiques. He is aware that by law anything found in the soil should be handed over to the local government. You get a nice beautiful red banner for that. But he knows where to look and when to do it.

 

[usinadi]

I bought the Garrett Ace 350 when I started but in 7 months I bought the Garrett AT Gold and I loved it! The At Gold is comparable to the At Pro so I am sure that you will enjoy it. For me the At Gold was such a move up from the Ace 350 that it totally energized my metal detecting. I did not like the Ace 350 ( Dug enough nails to supply a hardware store) and I am sure that if I spent enough time I would have learned the machine better because I am still learning the nuances of my AT Gold but I love it! I am glad that since you had the money that you opted for the AT Pro because I know that the Pro and the AT gold are a definite step up from the 350.

 

[Tom_in_CA]

.... but coins too. .....

This is going to turn into a "chevy vs ford" question. There's 100's of good machines out there. A macro racer is a fairly easy to use versatile machine. I'm using an Explorer II for all my hunting needs (be sure to find the in-line sunray probe to go with it). But Exp. II takes more learning . Like to be trained in the sounds by someone in a hands-on-field training.