kenb
Bronze Member
(11-29) 04:00 PST San Ignacio, Belize --
Deep in the tropical jungle, we walked thigh-deep in Roaring Creek and arrived at a towering cave opening. The stream fed out of the cave and into a deep, slow-moving pool.
With a nod, we plunged into the pool and swam upstream into the cave. The cool water sent off a few tingles, but the prickle of expectation was the rush.
This stream was the access point into a lost world, a cave of mysteries, ceremonies and deaths. I flipped on the head lamp on my caving helmet, waded up to my waist and started working my way upstream, into the blackness
This cave, Actun Tunichil Muknal, "Cave of the Stone Sepulchre," leads about a half-mile underground to one of the few Mayan sacrificial sites in the world that is virtually untouched, with skeletal remains from 14 individuals and 1,400 artifacts that date back as far as 2,000 years. Opened only nine years ago, its location is a local secret, hidden deep in a jungle preserve in the Cayo District of Belize. Visitors are granted access only with guides certified by the National Institute of Archaeology, and even then, you must 4-wheel drive to a remote trailhead, and then hike, swim, wade and cave-trek to reach the chamber of the ultimate sacrifice.
At one spot, on a flat ledge above the stream, the skeleton of a young female is perfectly intact, set on its back, welded to rock through centuries of calcification. Next to her is a broken plate that was used to collect her blood, perhaps 1,200 years ago, explained our host, Daniel Silva. Nearby is another skull. Massive stalactites hang from the ceiling like 10-foot golden icicles.
It's like a trip in a time machine to a cave where the 1,000-year-old secrets of the ancients Mayans are revealed.
Tropical paradise
Belize is a relative sliver of land on the Caribbean coast, just south of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, and neighbored to the west and south by Guatemala. Since Belize was the former British Honduras, most residents are fluent in English.
Belize is world-renowned for its turquoise coastal waters, reefs, atolls and blue holes in the Caribbean, and with that, snorkeling and scuba diving. But hidden in the jungle interior is this lost world, Actun Tunichil Muknal, which became accessible to the public on a limited basis a few years ago. In the country's official 200-page visitor magazine, "Destination Belize," which lists thousands of recreation getaways and contacts, this cave is not even mentioned. The best time to visit is from Christmas through spring, and most trips are booked in November and December.
From San Francisco International, we took a red-eye to El Salvador, and after a short layover, landed the next morning in Belize City. We were met there by a driver from the resort and then taken about two hours west across the country, along farms, valleys and rivers, to the town of San Ignacio near the border of Guatemala.
The best lodging in this area is at Cahal Pech Village Resort, which is perched on a hilltop overlooking the town. A series of gorgeous air-conditioned thatched-roof cabanas on stilts face the valley below, and cost only $79 to $99 per night. It is private and quiet, situated amid tropical gardens, and within a 30-second walk of swimming pools, a bar and an open-air restaurant. From the deck, you get long-distance views of the Belize River Valley and Maya Mount, spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and at night, a sweeping panorama of a star-lit sky.
It is called "Cahal Pech" in deference to the nearby Cahal Pech Mayan temple, an archeological site within minutes of the lodge. It's about a 15-minute walk to downtown San Ignacio, where you can find native food, culture and stores.
Silva, the resort's owner, arranges adventures for his guests. One day, we were ferried deep into neighboring Guatemala to Tikal, and explored the landmark settlement of Mayan ruins and temples. We climbed to the top of two of them. Another day, we went "cave tubing," that is, with inner tubes, we rafted for several hours on a gentle river at Jaguar Paw that ventured in and out three river/cave systems. We canoed deep into another cave, explored the jungle, searched out waterfalls and exotic swimming holes, and looked for wildlife.
Search for the cave tomb
These adventures built the anticipation of heading into Actun Tunichil Muknal, or what the local guides call "ATM." The epigram, "Cave of the Stone Sepulchre," means "cave tomb."
The adventure started with an hourlong drive past remote farms into the Tapir Mountain Reserve. Tapir look like a giant pig, about seven feet long and 600 pounds, with a shortened elephant-like snout. They are protected here. Jaguar also roam the jungle and are feared by the natives.
We slipped our SUV into 4-wheel-drive and bumped along on dirt roads, mud puddles and through jungle until arriving at a dirt parking area and trailhead. There were no signs anywhere. We slipped into our swimsuits and Rash Guard, and fitted helmets and head lamps. Silva had already warned us to wear athletic shoes or closed-toe sandals with socks. Going barefoot and using sunscreen or insect repellant is banned because of the chance that oil residue could damage the cave's formations.
A small dirt path cut a route into the jungle. Off we went, hiking upstream, and soon the trail paralleled Roaring Creek. The stream can flood during tropical storms, but it was running low and clear on our visit. That was a plus, because the route required three stream crossings.
The air was humid, and occasional sprinkles fell from an uprising of dark cumulus. The hike crossed about two miles through dense jungle, often so thick that a jaguar could be 20 feet away and you wouldn't know it. Eventually we dropped over a gentle crest, hopped over a small boulder field, and the mouth of the cave suddenly emerged in front of us.
It was just like I'd heard, the opening shaped like a giant hourglass, with the river pouring out of its mouth, guarded by a deep pool.
After swimming into the cave opening, we stopped at a ledge to review the rules that Silva had outlined: "Do not touch anything. Do not go barefoot. No sandals. When you near the sacrificial site, you are required to shed your footwear and walk in socks. Speak softly."
After a pause, he added: "Respect everything you see. You are about to witness evidence of a world that most only know from history books."
Entering the cave tomb
The light beams from our head lamps bored holes through the darkness. From the first steps, you could see how the cave ceiling had grown stunning gold stalactites that hung like giant wolf's teeth. In some cases, stalactites had joined with stalagmites from the cave floor to form massive columns. You must be in good physical condition for this adventure. It involved climbing over rocks, crouching and squeezing through narrow openings.
In minutes, we spotted the first artifacts, broken pieces of ancient plates and pots, though a few pots were nearly complete. It was the Mayan custom to break the plates on purpose, Silva explained, "to allow the spirits to depart from the article."
In the next hour, we worked our way upstream into the cave, wading, walking and sometimes swimming. The water level varied, anywhere from ankle deep to over your head. The water temperature was comfortable and refreshing. Along the way, we saw pots and plates, most broken, and more dramatic cave formations, above us along the cave walls.
We then left the stream, removed our shoes, and climbed in socks to an overhanging ledge at the foot of a massive chamber. This was the cavern of sacrifice, the rock tomb, the "Stone Sepulchre."
To the right, a skull sat in the rock like a scene out of an Indiana Jones movie.' Ahead, to the left, a full skeleton was intact. Its mouth seemed in an eternal scream, perhaps from what had occurred a millennium before.
This victim was likely from the peak of Mayan sacrificial period, about 1,100 years ago, when sacrifices were offered to the gods in pleas to end a drought that had devastated the region. According to Silva, both the Mayan priests and those sacrificed were likely under the influence of hallucinogens during the ceremonies to minimize the anguish.
On the way back, I couldn't help but imagine how those involved had hiked the same trail, swum the same creek and climbed the same ledge.
kenb
Deep in the tropical jungle, we walked thigh-deep in Roaring Creek and arrived at a towering cave opening. The stream fed out of the cave and into a deep, slow-moving pool.
With a nod, we plunged into the pool and swam upstream into the cave. The cool water sent off a few tingles, but the prickle of expectation was the rush.
This stream was the access point into a lost world, a cave of mysteries, ceremonies and deaths. I flipped on the head lamp on my caving helmet, waded up to my waist and started working my way upstream, into the blackness
This cave, Actun Tunichil Muknal, "Cave of the Stone Sepulchre," leads about a half-mile underground to one of the few Mayan sacrificial sites in the world that is virtually untouched, with skeletal remains from 14 individuals and 1,400 artifacts that date back as far as 2,000 years. Opened only nine years ago, its location is a local secret, hidden deep in a jungle preserve in the Cayo District of Belize. Visitors are granted access only with guides certified by the National Institute of Archaeology, and even then, you must 4-wheel drive to a remote trailhead, and then hike, swim, wade and cave-trek to reach the chamber of the ultimate sacrifice.
At one spot, on a flat ledge above the stream, the skeleton of a young female is perfectly intact, set on its back, welded to rock through centuries of calcification. Next to her is a broken plate that was used to collect her blood, perhaps 1,200 years ago, explained our host, Daniel Silva. Nearby is another skull. Massive stalactites hang from the ceiling like 10-foot golden icicles.
It's like a trip in a time machine to a cave where the 1,000-year-old secrets of the ancients Mayans are revealed.
Tropical paradise
Belize is a relative sliver of land on the Caribbean coast, just south of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, and neighbored to the west and south by Guatemala. Since Belize was the former British Honduras, most residents are fluent in English.
Belize is world-renowned for its turquoise coastal waters, reefs, atolls and blue holes in the Caribbean, and with that, snorkeling and scuba diving. But hidden in the jungle interior is this lost world, Actun Tunichil Muknal, which became accessible to the public on a limited basis a few years ago. In the country's official 200-page visitor magazine, "Destination Belize," which lists thousands of recreation getaways and contacts, this cave is not even mentioned. The best time to visit is from Christmas through spring, and most trips are booked in November and December.
From San Francisco International, we took a red-eye to El Salvador, and after a short layover, landed the next morning in Belize City. We were met there by a driver from the resort and then taken about two hours west across the country, along farms, valleys and rivers, to the town of San Ignacio near the border of Guatemala.
The best lodging in this area is at Cahal Pech Village Resort, which is perched on a hilltop overlooking the town. A series of gorgeous air-conditioned thatched-roof cabanas on stilts face the valley below, and cost only $79 to $99 per night. It is private and quiet, situated amid tropical gardens, and within a 30-second walk of swimming pools, a bar and an open-air restaurant. From the deck, you get long-distance views of the Belize River Valley and Maya Mount, spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and at night, a sweeping panorama of a star-lit sky.
It is called "Cahal Pech" in deference to the nearby Cahal Pech Mayan temple, an archeological site within minutes of the lodge. It's about a 15-minute walk to downtown San Ignacio, where you can find native food, culture and stores.
Silva, the resort's owner, arranges adventures for his guests. One day, we were ferried deep into neighboring Guatemala to Tikal, and explored the landmark settlement of Mayan ruins and temples. We climbed to the top of two of them. Another day, we went "cave tubing," that is, with inner tubes, we rafted for several hours on a gentle river at Jaguar Paw that ventured in and out three river/cave systems. We canoed deep into another cave, explored the jungle, searched out waterfalls and exotic swimming holes, and looked for wildlife.
Search for the cave tomb
These adventures built the anticipation of heading into Actun Tunichil Muknal, or what the local guides call "ATM." The epigram, "Cave of the Stone Sepulchre," means "cave tomb."
The adventure started with an hourlong drive past remote farms into the Tapir Mountain Reserve. Tapir look like a giant pig, about seven feet long and 600 pounds, with a shortened elephant-like snout. They are protected here. Jaguar also roam the jungle and are feared by the natives.
We slipped our SUV into 4-wheel-drive and bumped along on dirt roads, mud puddles and through jungle until arriving at a dirt parking area and trailhead. There were no signs anywhere. We slipped into our swimsuits and Rash Guard, and fitted helmets and head lamps. Silva had already warned us to wear athletic shoes or closed-toe sandals with socks. Going barefoot and using sunscreen or insect repellant is banned because of the chance that oil residue could damage the cave's formations.
A small dirt path cut a route into the jungle. Off we went, hiking upstream, and soon the trail paralleled Roaring Creek. The stream can flood during tropical storms, but it was running low and clear on our visit. That was a plus, because the route required three stream crossings.
The air was humid, and occasional sprinkles fell from an uprising of dark cumulus. The hike crossed about two miles through dense jungle, often so thick that a jaguar could be 20 feet away and you wouldn't know it. Eventually we dropped over a gentle crest, hopped over a small boulder field, and the mouth of the cave suddenly emerged in front of us.
It was just like I'd heard, the opening shaped like a giant hourglass, with the river pouring out of its mouth, guarded by a deep pool.
After swimming into the cave opening, we stopped at a ledge to review the rules that Silva had outlined: "Do not touch anything. Do not go barefoot. No sandals. When you near the sacrificial site, you are required to shed your footwear and walk in socks. Speak softly."
After a pause, he added: "Respect everything you see. You are about to witness evidence of a world that most only know from history books."
Entering the cave tomb
The light beams from our head lamps bored holes through the darkness. From the first steps, you could see how the cave ceiling had grown stunning gold stalactites that hung like giant wolf's teeth. In some cases, stalactites had joined with stalagmites from the cave floor to form massive columns. You must be in good physical condition for this adventure. It involved climbing over rocks, crouching and squeezing through narrow openings.
In minutes, we spotted the first artifacts, broken pieces of ancient plates and pots, though a few pots were nearly complete. It was the Mayan custom to break the plates on purpose, Silva explained, "to allow the spirits to depart from the article."
In the next hour, we worked our way upstream into the cave, wading, walking and sometimes swimming. The water level varied, anywhere from ankle deep to over your head. The water temperature was comfortable and refreshing. Along the way, we saw pots and plates, most broken, and more dramatic cave formations, above us along the cave walls.
We then left the stream, removed our shoes, and climbed in socks to an overhanging ledge at the foot of a massive chamber. This was the cavern of sacrifice, the rock tomb, the "Stone Sepulchre."
To the right, a skull sat in the rock like a scene out of an Indiana Jones movie.' Ahead, to the left, a full skeleton was intact. Its mouth seemed in an eternal scream, perhaps from what had occurred a millennium before.
This victim was likely from the peak of Mayan sacrificial period, about 1,100 years ago, when sacrifices were offered to the gods in pleas to end a drought that had devastated the region. According to Silva, both the Mayan priests and those sacrificed were likely under the influence of hallucinogens during the ceremonies to minimize the anguish.
On the way back, I couldn't help but imagine how those involved had hiked the same trail, swum the same creek and climbed the same ledge.
kenb
