OP
OP
- Jun 9, 2013
- 5,374
- 7,036
- Detector(s) used
- White XLT Spectrum E-Series
- Primary Interest:
- Metal Detecting
- Thread starter
- #21
Studs 24" on centerDidn't know that was still allowed anywhere - except places like Hawaii. 16" OC is the norm.
"To now extend the existing roof edge another 10" would be real hard. I'd have to add additions metal under the existing roof and build a 10" box structure the entire 60' length and attach...?"
Not sure, as you say this isn't a pole building. ...At least they're called pole buildings in this neck of the woods. A pole building has a primary structure made up of heavier wood timbers (but not post & beam construction), then has 2x4's for attaching metal siding to, adding a door or window, etc. However, you say this isn't a pole building, so am not sure what to say next.
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Whether your construction is pole-building or not, do you have metal siding? It seems that you do, so I'll continue:
To do what you're wanting to do, dropping down some from the original eave of the building, there is no need to cut into the existing siding of the building. Follow these steps:
1) Build your lean-to onto the side of your building to whatever specs you desire. Roof and completely finish the project.
2) Get up on the lean-to roof and apply flashing the entire length of the lean-to. This flashing needs to extend 6" or more up the side of the main building, and AT LEAST 12" down the roof of the lean-to. You might can get by with less if that side of the lean-to is heavily with trees (preferably evergreens) to prevent wind from driving rain/snow up under the flashing.
3) Cut and apply another layer of metal siding over the main building's siding, on top of the flashing and to up under the eave of the main building. ...Remember to remove any original screws first as they will prevent the 2nd layer of metal from sitting flat on the first layer.
4. There are now open gaps along the length of the flashing where it sits on the lean-to roofing (assuming that roof is metal). There is a foam product that can be purchased that is form-fitted to this shape. Before attaching the lower edge of the flashing, place this foam barrier in place and then screw the flashing in place. PLEASE use appropriate screws instead of nails. Nails have a way of loosening over time, mostly due to the lumber drying out and shrinking, which can render the rubber washer useless.
Ok, there it is. No matter what kind of building you have, this "should" provide you a proper fix. No cutting, no caulk, no voided warranties, and most importantly, no leaks!!
Forgot to mention: You'll have to remove the corner pieces for the construction, then cut to length and replace as necessary. Also, going this route allows ALL of your lean-to construction components to be covered and weather-tight once the job is completed.
KCM.... That idea of just overlapping the flashing on the wall with another layer of proper size metal is all I needed to hear!!!!!!!!!!!!! While the flashing will prevent the new sheet from fitting flat exactly over the 1st. it will be very close and will look fine. This new row of metal will only be between 18" - 23" tall. I have enough left also to do this 60' wall also. Exterior is 100% wrapped with metal and proper screws were utilized.
I built the building on a a 4" concrete pad with 12" footers below all walls. An extra 8' x 60' concrete was left to build the lean to structure upon. 2x4 construction throughout with 3 entry doors, 4 windows and a 16' x 8' overhead door. Building was built on 24" centers with 10" headers above all doors and windows with 2 x 12's used above the 16' door. The walls are insulated and covered with 1/2" OSB. The 10' ceiling is covered in 1/4" OSB and will soon be filled with 10" of blown fiberglass insulation. Passed final electrical inspection last week and got "real" power hooked up Mon. Working on floor, ceiling, window and door molding now. Then I start setting up the machinery and my work islands.
But thank you for the help.... Brad
