OK I know that quite a few people here have this specific detector and I was wondering what settings are working best for people? I am still having a little trouble with frozen ground so I can't dig more than 3 inches or so in the areas I have done my tests in, I am getting good signals and am going to go and try a local park this afternoon on which I will report back this evening.
The Garrett Ace 250
- Thread starter Orygun
- Start date
KevGA
Sr. Member
This one has come up a few times, and one setting that seems to be consistent with most users is 50% sensitivity.? Anything more seems to pick up every little mineralization, which at first seems like a good thing but after digging a lot of empty holes can be a little annoying.?
Also listen to the machine.? Solid targets (in my limited experience) always give you a nice solid d-ding-d-ding-d-ding, and the id on the meter thusfar has been correct.? If you're into specific coins, really look at the meter as a dime, penny and quarter all sound about the same, but show up slightly different on the display (on their correct symbol, which are right next to each other.)? Single "blips" are generally trash, even down at the nickel level.? Every nickel I have found has given me the solid signal, every pull tab and piece of foil has been a "blip".? The cast iron, cans, keys, bolts, etc. have all also been single blips.?
I have not found any rings or other jewelry yet, but have air tested with some of my wife's stuff ("No, honey, I'm making the bed, I'll be right out!")? and they also give the nice solid d-dings.? This being said, I have found the jewelry setting to be the most friendly, it is set to cover both jewelry and coins and discriminates out the lower trash settings, though at just the right angle you will still get the very occasional piece of foil.
Pinpointing has been deadly and as easy as the manual would suggest.? I have found the target to be directly under the inside of the point of the inner coil, with the depth being pretty darn good as well.
Well, enough jabbering for me. Let us know how it went for you, and get some pics up there!
HH
Also listen to the machine.? Solid targets (in my limited experience) always give you a nice solid d-ding-d-ding-d-ding, and the id on the meter thusfar has been correct.? If you're into specific coins, really look at the meter as a dime, penny and quarter all sound about the same, but show up slightly different on the display (on their correct symbol, which are right next to each other.)? Single "blips" are generally trash, even down at the nickel level.? Every nickel I have found has given me the solid signal, every pull tab and piece of foil has been a "blip".? The cast iron, cans, keys, bolts, etc. have all also been single blips.?
I have not found any rings or other jewelry yet, but have air tested with some of my wife's stuff ("No, honey, I'm making the bed, I'll be right out!")? and they also give the nice solid d-dings.? This being said, I have found the jewelry setting to be the most friendly, it is set to cover both jewelry and coins and discriminates out the lower trash settings, though at just the right angle you will still get the very occasional piece of foil.
Pinpointing has been deadly and as easy as the manual would suggest.? I have found the target to be directly under the inside of the point of the inner coil, with the depth being pretty darn good as well.
Well, enough jabbering for me. Let us know how it went for you, and get some pics up there!
HH
J
Jim Cal
Guest
Kev said exactly what I would have told you. I have found the sensitivity to be very good even at the 50% range and frankly have been amazed at the good solid signals you get with a good target. When I first got mine I cranked the sensitivity up to about 75% and started getting lots of chirps so I started backing it down until they stopped and that was at about 50% in my area. The target ID has been right on and pinpointing is very accurate. I must admit I did not expect a detector in this price range with all of the features this one has to be as good as it has turned out to be. The jewelry program is also the one I use most of the time. Jim Cal
ghost surf
Full Member
- Dec 11, 2004
- 242
- 7
Hi, Has any of you been to the metal detecting championships in Steven's Point Wisconsin..There was a man who built a real nice machine and was showing it last year at the show.The Shadow X5 it was called..I thought the machine and it's maker was A-OK!I have been to it but never joined in ..I just watch like a cat to learn the new tricks.Someday, I will try my luck and see what I can find.I may talk big...But there are a lot of men and women out there that know that talent much more then me..But we are brothers and sisters of the trade and stand as one together.Bless our soles!
OP
OP
Orygun
Full Member
- Thread starter
- #5
well to refresh this topic I guess I will tell you what has been gooing on with the new MD. It seems to beep a lot when I am just walking and swinging. just a quick beep and then I re-swing the area and nothing, sometimes the pinpoint will go full and I can raise the coil up into the air and it stays at full tilt. I have found a few relics but it is still rather confusing to me.
R
rvbvetter
Guest
Are you putting the coil on top of the target and then hitting pinpoint? Try putting coil just off to the side of target a few inches and then hit pin point and sweep back over it. Good luck HH
treasurekidd
Bronze Member
KevinFla was right on in explaining the ACE250. Everything he said was exactly what I have experienced with mine in the 4 times I have had it out. I hunt primarily in coin mode, at 50% sensitivity, and quickly learned to ignore the single, non-repeatable blips and chirps, and dig only the solid "belltone" targets. This method has inceased my coin take significantly (even nickels) even if is is just clad, and has saved me a lot of time by skipping the trash signals. As for pinpointing, I agree that the best way to pinpoint is to locate your target visually as best you can in search mode, then move off a few inches to the side of the target, press pinpoint, and then sweep slowly over the target again. It works perfectly almost every time. I have found the target ID to be very accuarate, and the depth indicator pretty much right on as well, although a few deeper quarters have registered as shallow dimes, maybe because of the same clad metal content??
So far, I have been hunting schools, parks and ballfields, but next weekend I am planning on hitting a colonial era farm with a friend in CT, and am really going to put this machine to the test!! All metal mode and dig everything, so with the trash and iron signals not discriminated out, we'll see how well the target ID works then, lol! Good luck with your ACE, you'll get the hang of it soon enough, and I hope to see some post of cool finds!!!
So far, I have been hunting schools, parks and ballfields, but next weekend I am planning on hitting a colonial era farm with a friend in CT, and am really going to put this machine to the test!! All metal mode and dig everything, so with the trash and iron signals not discriminated out, we'll see how well the target ID works then, lol! Good luck with your ACE, you'll get the hang of it soon enough, and I hope to see some post of cool finds!!!
hunt4stuff
Greenie
- Oct 12, 2004
- 13
- 0
Hey Treasure kidd...it's your friendly RI neighbor! (thanks for the Ramtail info)
Anyway I was reading along and wondered how much of a difference there is between the Ace 250 and the 150. I know it's only about $50.00 more but should I consider the 150 becoming a bit obsolete?
I havent been doing too much lately and I was just looking around a bit. As you know I'm just interested in the jewelry and coin hunting basically.
Take care
Bev
Anyway I was reading along and wondered how much of a difference there is between the Ace 250 and the 150. I know it's only about $50.00 more but should I consider the 150 becoming a bit obsolete?
I havent been doing too much lately and I was just looking around a bit. As you know I'm just interested in the jewelry and coin hunting basically.
Take care
Bev
J
Justin L
Guest
The 250 is worth the extra money for the pinpoint feature alone.
D
Darod
Guest
The 250 also has tone ID and a more robust display and controls section.
There really is no compairison between the 2 machines.
As far as the pinpointing and where the item is when your pinpointing,..I have a different experience with mine. It turns out that the location of the coin/relic when the signal bar is pegged is direclty in the center of the small cresent/half circle cutout at the center of the coil on my 250. Not at the top edge as shown in KevFL's post. Curious, but not alarming at all. It boils down to just figuring out the physics of your particular machine.
Time is the only way you'll get the machine figured. Talk is cheap, you need to keep swinging and you'll get it.
Rod
There really is no compairison between the 2 machines.
As far as the pinpointing and where the item is when your pinpointing,..I have a different experience with mine. It turns out that the location of the coin/relic when the signal bar is pegged is direclty in the center of the small cresent/half circle cutout at the center of the coil on my 250. Not at the top edge as shown in KevFL's post. Curious, but not alarming at all. It boils down to just figuring out the physics of your particular machine.
Time is the only way you'll get the machine figured. Talk is cheap, you need to keep swinging and you'll get it.
Rod
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