What to do after the clay becomes mud

Clay Diggins

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Nov 14, 2010
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In the Calling all "clay" hater's!! thread I managed to share some useful information about how to break down clay by raising the pH with some simple cheap chemicals that are environmentally friendly.

Now that you've gotten the gold out of the clay you are left with some seriously muddy water. Recycling that water can only take place after you turn it from chocolate milk back to clean clear water. You could use large bodies of water and long settling times if you have the room, water and time. You could try to depend entirely on the flocculation process and just reverse the pH change we made to break down the clay. That involves mixing in a bunch of acid and voila your muddy water turns back into clay again.

The problem with using that acid flocculant system is you are left with clay and acid water - bad idea if you are going to recirculate the water because your chemical use goes way up when you try to breakdown the next load of gold holding clay. This creates a cycle that ends up with a toxic soup and wasted chemicals. The addition of acid also leaves us with water we can't recycle back into the environment. The same clay ground (low pH) that neutralized our high pH clay busting chemicals can't neutralize the acid water left from the acid flocculation process. You are left with more clay and acid pH water that is essentially useless for recirculation or further processing and a real environmental problem if you dump it.

Lucky for us there is a quicker, easier mechanical way to remove the mud from the water - the Lamella Separator. Although the principle of the lamella separator isn't new it's only been used for mining since the mid 1970's. The lamella separator requires no motors or electricity so once your system is tuned for your conditions you have no costs for operation and very little maintenance. Here's a little diagram to show the principle of operation.

lamella.jpg

Yeah it's that simple. The muddy water flows into one end of the tank and the clean water flows out the other end. The secret is those slanted plates on the outflow side. Everything else is pretty much like your average settling tank but the slanted plates cause the solids to drop out before the water can reach the outflow. Here's a little video to show you a working model and demonstrate the simple principles involved.



You will see these lamella separators at any major mine using water processing. They are pretty easy to spot because they are usually lopsided to accommodate the slanted plates. They can be big or small.

Here's one for a big mining operation.

lamella_large.jpg

And here's a small one easily transported and setup on a small operation.

lamella_sm.jpg

You can even buy or make your own plates for a homegrown water cleaner system. These are bulk made pre - cut plastic lamella tubes.

premade.jpg

Heavy Pans
 

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jcazgoldchaser

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I've got several of those. The bottoms are pretty robust but the tops don't hold up to uv (sunlight) very well and tend to crack with use over time. The lid is made out of an unknown harder plastic. If you don't need a sturdy lid these are a good buy.

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Yeah, plastic here doesn't last a week without a paint coating. Degrease it, dawn and a scuff pad, then hit it with some rustoleum.

And this long tub is fairly ridged, unlike those other bulk containers that flex when you fill them with pillows. I figure use 1 or 2 tubs in your outflow and play with the different styles of lamaze separation.

I'm iffy on the pasticboard sign material, maybe to construct smaller vertical plate boxes. The long lengths flex too much, I can't see using it for the long horizontal pieces unless you insert rods through the center or have extra supports for it.

For horizontal plates, formed galvi sheet seems to make the most sense. Couple bends and it's pretty stiff. Looked at roofing flashing, nothing jumped out but 10' with a couple bends is pretty ridged. The HF metal break can handle 36" @ 16g for sheet metal so that's doable.

50C. Might be different at realistic temperatures.
You are more than welcome to come by in June,..
Follow 80 West, then turn South on the

 

Apr 17, 2014
2,043
1,342
Tartarus Dorsa mountains
Primary Interest:
Other
Yeah, plastic here doesn't last a week without a paint coating. Degrease it, dawn and a scuff pad, then hit it with some rustoleum.

And this long tub is fairly ridged, unlike those other bulk containers that flex when you fill them with pillows. I figure use 1 or 2 tubs in your outflow and play with the different styles of lamaze separation.

I'm iffy on the pasticboard sign material, maybe to construct smaller vertical plate boxes. The long lengths flex too much, I can't see using it for the long horizontal pieces unless you insert rods through the center or have extra supports for it.

For horizontal plates, formed galvi sheet seems to make the most sense. Couple bends and it's pretty stiff. Looked at roofing flashing, nothing jumped out but 10' with a couple bends is pretty ridged. The HF metal break can handle 36" @ 16g for sheet metal so that's doable.

You are more than welcome to come by in June,..
Follow 80 West, then turn South on the



If the water in the creek flowing through your sluice is 50c or better the fish and wild life peeps are going to have a hard time showing you are causing a problem to the fish. Jes saying ...
 

jcazgoldchaser

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If the water in the creek flowing through your sluice is 50c or better the fish and wild life peeps are going to have a hard time showing you are causing a problem to the fish. Jes saying ...
If there was a creek, wouldn't need to recalculate the mud.

Ya'll probably lives where water falls from the sky? Here it comes from under the grass, on a timer or from the spigot. Barrels get a might warm in the sun.
 

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