best means of determining pottery pieces...

[canes2016]

Came across these pieces of pottery in a late 1700’s cellar hole. I’ve also found some broken bottles etc.., to indicate the place may have been lived in during the 1930’s. Is there a way to determine what century the following pieces may have been in existence?

 

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[dirtdigginfool]

Cane, sorry, I can't id your pottery nor date it, but cool stuff nonetheless! Have you had the opportunity to swing the VX3 there yet? I would like to think that there are some old coppers and silvers lurking there, and might aid in dating your pottery...thx for the cool post...ddf

 

[canes2016]

dirt...thanks. I am using a VX3. My bucket list remains incomplete as I’ve not found a coin yet?? Have found all sorts of iron....buckles, rein guides, silverware, a bazillion nails, musket ball, but no coins which is odd. Maybe need to start digging the negative stuff ID’D?

I’m using the generic programs on the VX, essentially coins or coins/jewelry. Not savvy enough to implement new programs either.

 

[jude061]

I would guess that the one with the Lord's Prayer and the one with "PA" and "H," based on the style of the lettering, could be late 18th to early 19th century.

 

[BARKER]

Hi; Te Blue Pieces are late 1700's. The grey pieces are about 1830 - 1840. The white piece. I need to know, Does it feel BUMPY or have bumps on the white glazed side ?? I don't have time right now. Headed out but I will explain how to date your pieces later today ok. I await your response. PEACE:RONB

 

[canes2016]

RonB...the white piece is smooth, no bumps. It does have a gold trim on the edge.

 

[OutdoorAdv]

This PDF is a good resource http://www.jefpat.org/Documents/Colonial-PostColonialCeramics.pdf

It describes Earthenware, Stoneware, Creamware, pearlware and many others, It will help you in ID'ing those shards and give you an idea of age.

 

[BARKER]

Hi; Thanks OutDoor Adv. The reason I say the blue shards are 1700's is if you look at them the blue areas are not clear & crisp. This shows especially on the bottom right hand piece. It looks "faded". The same is true of the other blue piece. Where both grey pieces are much clearer and sharper in detail. The reason for these disparities is that the technology of the times were not good enough to produce sharp, clear colors or detailed work. As time passed the technology improved. This is shown in the difference between the blue & grey shards. The white piece is newer 1800's. The reason is that first in the 1700's - early 1800's the application of the colors were not that good and had a tendency to produce a bumpy or grainy feel to them and the application of gold to ceramics really did not start until the mid 1800's. Now you know that the dating process is based on the technology of the times and that the more faded the color and/or details are the older the piece is. If you look at most 1700's clear glass items you will see air bubbles and they may not be uniform in shape or that clear as well. This also improved with time ok.

Here are the facts on the white piece ok:

Geometric and Paneled Motifs
(1840s-1850s) flat or slightly concave panels on hexagonal andoctagonal hollow vessels. in flat vessels, geometric designs took the appearanceof six or eight flat panels forming themarly. term “gothic” common in the pattern orshape names of flat paneled designs, which werecommon in 1840s. Arches, scallops, loops and lobes, used in conjunctionwith vertical panels, common in 1850s. Production of paneled jugs or octagonal vesselsvirtually ceased after 1860

Enjoy: PEACE:RONB

 

[DownNDirty]

This PDF is a good resource http://www.jefpat.org/Documents/Colonial-PostColonialCeramics.pdf

It describes Earthenware, Stoneware, Creamware, pearlware and many others, It will help you in ID'ing those shards and give you an idea of age.

Excellent reference Brad-thanks for sharing this

 

[OutdoorAdv]

Excellent reference Brad-thanks for sharing this

Thanks Glenn! I was looking at this pdf the other day and it was like someone took photos of all the pottery I've been removing from my big pit! I have dug many of the exact same samples in that document. Kinda cool.

 

[nhbenz]

About 1825 on the one with scripture: https://www.rubylane.com/item/441414-AMT2961/Staffordshire-Red-Transferware-Plate-Millennium-Lion

 

[Scrappy]

Thanks for sharing that great article Brad. I always prefer in depth archeological studies instead of some tiki-bar bull****

Lol

 

[Professor of Engineering]

Hello OutdoorAdv,

Thanks for the resource!

Doc

 

[Professor of Engineering]

Hello Canes2016,

The VX3 is a nice machine, I have the V3i, similar in design and programming. The stock programs will work, but with tweeking you can get some nice depth and performance from your machine.

If you have a test-bed (I use a 8" dime and a 10" quarter when testing), change a setting and see how the detector responds, then change another one...etc. You cannot hurt anything the original programs are stored in a library and can be reinstalled at any time. The best part of learning a new detector is the journey, not the end!

Regards,

Doc

 

[canes2016]

Terrific info, PDF is a great resource as well, many thanks all... Doc, thanks, just need to take the jump! Giving the results thus far, no reason to complain...except for no coins yet!!

 

[canes2016]

Doc...incidentally, when you say “change a setting” are you referring to going from Coins to Coins/Jewelry, etc??

 

[canes2016]

nhbenz, thanks for the link, very cool. Out of curiosity, how did you go about locating the entire image, using just a small pic that I posted?