Coin Comparator Power supply question

[squeebler]

Hi

I was looking to make myself a homemade copper penny sorter, and was looking into the coin comparator aspect.

My problem is I do not know how to power the thing. I am not an electrician, but my research has brought me here:

The coin comparator I want (a Coin Mechanisms, CC-40) runs on 24vDC power. It has an I/O (which I have since learned is not an on/off, but input/output) connector for a (six pin or 7 pin inline?) Molex. I know I need an AC to DC power supply, but I do not know how to connect that power supply to the Molex connection. Is there an adapter or do I need to learn to cut and reattach some wires. Any advice would be great, I know someone else has made a "homebrew penny sorter" a lot like a Ryedale, and while I've read that post thoroughly and its links, I cannot figure out this Molex thing. I've also seen pictures of the Coinalyzer and it has some sort of adapter (looks almost hot glued) from the power supply to the comparator's Molex.

Thanks in advance!

 

[db23]

Are you searching for a wire? The connection used, if the same as a cc-16, is not a molex but a 6 pin JST.

 

[squeebler]

Are you searching for a wire? The connection used, if the same as a cc-16, is not a molex but a 6 pin JST.

I think I'm searching for a wire. But more the whole power supply and wiring. Thanks I just looked up the JST wire, it's good to know it's that. Is it possible to hook that JST wire right up to a DC power supply?

 

[madwest]

Are you searching for a wire? The connection used, if the same as a cc-16, is not a molex but a 6 pin JST.

I think I'm searching for a wire. But more the whole power supply and wiring. Thanks I just looked up the JST wire, it's good to know it's that. Is it possible to hook that JST wire right up to a DC power supply?

... You can use either ... powering it with ... or ....

One you have...., you can bring it all together as simple as ....

I don't mind helping to get you going on this. Post here ... with specific questions.

FYI, that comparator ..., but as the second screen shot shows, it isn't .... bottom limit of the spec and ... out of spec on weight. If you are using ..., you are within spec, if you use... you are not. Personally, I prefer ...

 

[squeebler]

Are you searching for a wire? The connection used, if the same as a cc-16, is not a molex but a 6 pin JST.

I think I'm searching for a wire. But more the whole power supply and wiring. Thanks I just looked up the JST wire, it's good to know it's that. Is it possible to hook that JST wire right up to a DC power supply?

Do you have a link to the Coin Compare that you are looking at? The CMI comparators are all very similar, but without knowing exactly which one you are looking at, it's hard to help. I did a screen shot of a data sheet for the one I suspect you are looking at. You can use either AC or DC. I have played with one very similar and was powering it with 15VDC or 24VAC.

One you have a connector for the comparator and a suitable power supply, you can bring it all together as simple as a couple of small wire nuts.

I don't mind helping to get you going on this. Post here or PM me with specific questions.

FYI, that comparator does work OK for cents, but as the second screen shot shows, it isn't optimized for cents. A brass US cent is near the bottom limit of the spec and the Cu plated Zn cent is out of spec on weight. If you are using a Cu cent as the reference coin, you are within spec, if you use a Zn cent as the reference coin, you are not. Personally, I prefer to use a Zn cent as the reference for a first sort and Cu for a second sort.

Thanks for your response. I was planning on doing the CC-40 but thanks for the advice, should I switch to a cc-16? I noticed lots of people use that. I mainly want something reliable and $60 or less. I was planning on using a Zinc as a reference mainly because I heard there are slightly different alloys in wheats.

So your saying if I had the correct JST and the proper power supply I'd be able to patch them together somehow?

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=1492 <<That is the CC-40 I originally intended, but not if it's problematic with Zinc's weight.

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=1130 << That's the CC-16 I'd probably get (if that was the case)

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=39 <<That's a link to the general Coin Comparator page on their site, any of those would be fine too with me, they're great deals compared to ebay I think.

 

[madwest]

So your saying if I had the correct JST and the proper power supply I'd be able to patch them together somehow?

Yes. ..

For ..., find a ... or ... power supply, ... two leads ... and plug it in. If the LED ... unplug it, ... there's no tomorrow.

For ... (or ...) one, you might need ... damage it with wrong polarity. ...

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=1492 <<That is the CC-40 I originally intended, but not if it's problematic with Zinc's weight.

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=1130 << That's the CC-16 I'd probably get (if that was the case)

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=39 <<That's a link to the general Coin Comparator page on their site, any of those would be fine too with me, they're great deals compared to ebay I think.

The sales descriptions (model number) do not have enough information to tell you for sure. The CC-16 might be a CC-16D or CC-16E. Then, it might be a 2.6G or 6G. Also, it might have the wide opening for dollar (or larger) tokens. Those details are in addition to the model number.

For example, the one I'm using now is a "CC-16E, INH, 100, 2.6G, IGT"

"CC-16E" is the model number.
"INH" means it has an inhibit input that needs to be grounded for the device to work.
"100" means the input slot is 0.100" wide. (good for cents through half dollars) Watch out for a "150" here - won't work well for cents.
"2.6G" means it has a 2.6gram counter weight on the input. I remove the counter weight entirely because it just gets in the way of Zn cents.
"IGT" means it was intended for an IGT slot machine.

The one I have works well for cents, but marginally for dimes. If you find any that are intended for dimes (or cents), let me know! The clue will be a 0.7g in the PN in place of the 2.6g.

 

[squeebler]

So your saying if I had the correct JST and the proper power supply I'd be able to patch them together somehow?

Yes. As my 6yo would say, "easy peasy."

For your 24V CC-40, find a 15VDC or 18VDC power supply, cut the end off, wire nut the two leads to the wiring harness from the CC-40, and plug it in. If the LED doesn't come on, unplug it, swap the wires, plug it in. If the LED comes on, push cents through it like there's no tomorrow.

For a CC-16 12VDC (or 13V) one, you might need to be more careful to get the polarity right the first time. The difference is that the 24V CC-40 has a rectifier input circuit. You can't damage it with wrong polarity. There is no guarantee that the CC-16 you get has polarity protection. It likely does, but not guaranteed.

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=1492 <<That is the CC-40 I originally intended, but not if it's problematic with Zinc's weight.

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=1130 << That's the CC-16 I'd probably get (if that was the case)

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=39 <<That's a link to the general Coin Comparator page on their site, any of those would be fine too with me, they're great deals compared to ebay I think.

The sales descriptions (model number) do not have enough information to tell you for sure. The CC-16 might be a CC-16D or CC-16E. Then, it might be a 2.6G or 6G. Also, it might have the wide opening for dollar (or larger) tokens. Those details are in addition to the model number.

For example, the one I'm using now is a "CC-16E, INH, 100, 2.6G, IGT"

"CC-16E" is the model number.
"INH" means it has an inhibit input that needs to be grounded for the device to work.
"100" means the input slot is 0.100" wide. (good for cents through half dollars) Watch out for a "150" here - won't work well for cents.
"2.6G" means it has a 2.6gram counter weight on the input. I remove the counter weight entirely because it just gets in the way of Zn cents.
"IGT" means it was intended for an IGT slot machine.

The one I have works well for cents, but marginally for dimes. If you find any that are intended for dimes (or cents), let me know! The clue will be a 0.7g in the PN in place of the 2.6g.

Thanks a lot for all this info, at least the wiring is possible. I suppose I should call the seller and ask about those details. Does that change even within the same model? Are all the 16E's the same? They have a 16-E and D on there I could get. Also did you have to do anything to get the area where you put the reference coin to fit pennies properly on the 16(like shave some plastic off?) I'm not really too interested in dimes. Do you ever find any? I've never got much more than a war nickle out of circulation. :/

I noticed that Coin Mechanisms sells the proper counterbalance, if it isn't the right one can i just buy the right one? Did you say you just got rid of yours all together?

 

[madwest]

Does that change even within the same model? Are all the 16E's the same? They have a 16-E and D on there I could get.

I'd say that, ...

..., you should be good to go for sorting ...

... the specs of the .... The comparator ... 2 bags ... I don't have the patience ... If I could get .. I know they are out there, but I haven't worked at finding one. Maybe some day.

Also did you have to do anything to get the area where you put the reference coin to fit pennies properly on the 16(like shave some plastic off?)

If ..., you are OK. If it has ... don't get it. As before, if you can be sure it is from ..., you'll have no problem.

I noticed that Coin Mechanisms sells the proper counterbalance, if it isn't the right one can i just buy the right one? Did you say you just got rid of yours all together?

You could get the ... if you found that ... I did remove .... First, I replaced.... That helped tremendously. Then, I .... Once I did that, I achieved true "Hands-Off" sorting - no clogs, no jams, no baby sitting. Now, I just pour the bag of cents and walk away. When I come back there are two piles. You can't do that with a Rydale even with multiple hopper extensions.

With the ... doing its job, I found that the coins.... At a fast feed rate, ... That could have been due to ... the easy part. Getting ... is where the challenge lies.