Fake or reales?

Flmedic245

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image.webpFirst time poster here. I joined to get some help on 4 different coins I've found in my fathers safe. He grew up in Fort Lauderdale beach area in Florida. Some look like 1715 fleet. I, hoping at least a few are authentic , I know replica were made. image.webp it looks like one is 1733, another is 1713, and another is half dated 15 so most likely 1715. The other has no date. Thanks for all your help !!image.webp
 

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Welcome to treasurenet !!

At first glance, I'd say they are authentic.
The next step (if they were mine) would be to weigh them and compare to the standard weight for each denomination.
Don....
 

I'm not an expert, but I think you're going to be asked:

#1 - How much does each one weigh?

#2 - For photos of the coin edges (does it look like they were cast instead of struck?)


I'm sure you'll get some good help here.


Good luck to all,

The Old Bookaroo, CM
 

They certainly look right. If those are fakes, they are the best fakes I've seen yet. Macky is right, you need to weigh and test them for content.

Without provenance, they will never carry the price of a Fisher wreck coin but they are still great in my opinion. Finding a few of those is on my bucket list of treasure hunting!
 

Thanks for the replies! To be honest the only one that seems suspicious is the 1733, it's smaller and looks too good. The others feel a little under an ounce(I don't have a scale, but comparing feel weight to my silver eagles id say slightly less. ) also they are not magnetic, never had any green staining. He has had these since the early 1970s.
 

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Thanks for the replies! To be honest the only one that seems suspicious is the 1733, it's smaller and looks too good. The others feel a little under an ounce(I don't have a scale, but comparing feel weight to my silver eagles id say slightly less. ) also they are not magnetic, never had any green staining. He has had these since the early 1970s.

these would be cobs, not coins. cobs are always irregular as they were cut from bars and then trimmed to weight before stamping. Whatever portion of the stamp got imprinted is what you got for a "coin". There are different denominations, 8R (8 reales; roughly equal to a silver dollar) 4R, 2R, and I think 1R and 1/2R also, so they won't necessarily weigh an ounce each if authentic.
 

I'm going to head to Walmart to get a digital scale. I'll follow up with weights.
 

They certainly look right. If those are fakes, they are the best fakes I've seen yet. Macky is right, you need to weigh and test them for content.

Without provenance, they will never carry the price of a Fisher wreck coin but they are still great in my opinion. Finding a few of those is on my bucket list of treasure hunting!
What would be an estimate value of these if they are indeed authentic?
 

What would be an estimate value of these if they are indeed authentic?

Sorry, that's beyond my scope of knowledge. Like all currency it would come down to year, mint and condition so each one could be different. I haven't even looked up the value of generic cobs in a long time.
 

Hi; They sure look real to Us. Make sure the scale weighs in Fractional Grams ok. i don't believe the one dated 1733 is a fake. I think it is a different date than the others because your Father may have bought it as an individual piece at a later date than the first set were bought. It appears to be the body of a 4 Reale. Thing is that We need the pictures of the Front, Back & Sides. We also need their weights in Fractional Grams ok. Fractional Grams give Us an EXACT weight. Then we can tell you if they are real or fake, how they were made, their Denominations and possibly the site of Production ok. We await. PEACE:RONB

Another thing about the 1733 piece is that if you notice the Strike or Design is much sharper than the other 3 pieces you show. This lends to the increase of Technology of the time ok.

ps; The reason for there being no green on them is that they may have been cleaned years ago and then kept in Storage all these years ok. PEACE:RONB
 

BARKER:

Nice to see you again posting here on TN!

Good luck to all - and particularly to BARKER & His Family,

The Old Bookaroo, CM
 

They all look legit except for the 1733 Klippe. Klippe(s) are heavily counterfeited as there is heavy demand from collectors as they serve as a transition piece between the hammered cobs and the screw-press pillar dollars. When viewing your pictures blown up, the klippe shows questionable surfaces that is evident of a cast piece. Like others mentioned, weigh your pieces and if you can take photos of each one (front and back) separately.
 

Looks real, ah..err...or reale! Anyways, look like real silver. All good advice above; test, weigh; etc...I hope all are authentic...
 

Quick test without leaving the house. If you drop one on a solid surface, like a wooden table top, they will "ring" when they hit. Non silver will make a "thud".
 

Quick test without leaving the house. If you drop one on a solid surface, like a wooden table top, they will "ring" when they hit. Non silver will make a "thud".

This test isnt always true. In harsh environments, the impurities in the metal can corrode and dissolve leaving the object like a microscopic honeycomb. These don't have a "ring" like a brand new coin will. Acid tests (or XRF if you're rich) are the best way to determine a metal type.
 

Sent all your coins to a third graded service, for a small fee and they will grade them for you and info you if they are fake or not. Good hunting and good luck.
 

Do NOT send them to be graded. Not worth the $ to have that done.
 

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