If you use electrolysis on coins you have a real chance of destroying the coin, pitting it bad. Reverse electroysis was mainly designed for underwater-saltwater iron objects found on shipwrecks, that had been under saltwater for 100s of years, and if taken out of the water, would just fall apart quickly. The reverse electroysis takes the salt out of the iron pores. Long slow process. It will take corrosion and encrustations off about any metal object, but there are better ways with some metals. Copper and silver is better cleaned in muratic acid, found in pool store area. I dilute it 50/50 with water. Copper and silver will not be eaten by it at all, so you can leave in for 30 minutes and check it out. Longer if not clean. Clad coins will get eaten, if left in for a while especially zinc pennies. Can be used on iron, but check more often. Rinse well and wear eye protection and rubber gloves, and do it outside. Of course this for major corrosion not just light patina. Use an old spoon that is stainless steel for an anode. New they are 1-2 dollars, used for real cheap at Salvation Army resale places, etc. Using copper will make everthing copper colored. Same if you put copper coins in with silver coins in acid bath. Like I said use a tuneable power supply, never use a battery charger, it senses a completly dead battery and put full amps into it. Dont do it. A carberator is best cleaned in a bucket of carb cleaner, taken apart fully. Never use a low nobility metal like zinc, aluminum, Zamac, etc in a reverse electroysis cleaning situation, it will dissolve it,
