need 600 or 800 TID's on civil war buttons

[pulltabfelix]

I am still designing my civil war relic tone break program.

not sure where civil war buttons ring up on the 800 (because I haven't found any). Have read several conflicting readings. some say 14 - 15 others say 22-24. could be that is for different types of buttons.

anyone who can air test or who has found them please share with me.

don't want to spend any money on ebay to do my own air test.

thanks

 

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[xr7ator]

No such thing as one # to cover all buttons in all sizes and shapes and from just one part of history. Then, throw in the fact that soil conditions and corrosion will play a part on changing the ID of the same exact button and it is wide open. No, I don't own the EQ but it doesn't matter.
Why do you have to spend money on ebay to do an air test and why would you air test anyway since it really has no bearing on what you may find in the ground? ME? I'd go metal detecting instead.

 

[pulltabfelix]

if you owned an 800 you might just understand the requests. Had an AT Pro for 3 years and there is a significant difference on the features of an 800 compared to the AT Pro.

 

[Coil-2-Soil]

I have dug 4 buttons with the 800 so far and in my soil they are coming in at the 13-15 range. 2 cuff buttons and 2 band buttons. Minie balls come in at 18 in all directions. But that’s my soil conditions in Eastern NC. Good luck to you.

 

[vferrari]

Just dig everything solid between 12 and 19 for brass and lead. You are going to get other worthwhile CW brass items in that range including rivets, j-hooks, triangles, and buttons. Too many shapes and sizes and degrees of corrosion and possible in-ground orientations to to cover all the TID permutations. Buttons, being round, will tend to give sweet coin-like audio regardless of TID. Don't waste time and money air testing. Remote CW sites are typically devoid of significant modern trash so I would dig all non-ferrous 10 and up. HH.

PS I know it doesn't answer your question from a tone break perspective, but since I use 50-tones for relic hunting, tone breaks are not relevant in 50-tones, sorry.

 

[pulltabfelix]

Just dig everything solid between 12 and 19 for brass and lead. You are going to get other worthwhile CW brass items in that range including rivets, j-hooks, triangles, and buttons. Too many shapes and sizes and degrees of corrosion and possible in-ground orientations to to cover all the TID permutations. Buttons, being round, will tend to give sweet coin-like audio regardless of TID. Don't waste time and money air testing. Remote CW sites are typically devoid of significant modern trash so I would dig all non-ferrous 10 and up. HH.

PS I know it doesn't answer your question from a tone break perspective, but since I use 50-tones for relic hunting, tone breaks are not relevant in 50-tones, sorry.

There quite a few civil war battle sites in Atlanta that are now running trails and parks so we all know what 50 years of concentrated human activity will do. thus the need to try and control my hunt with tone break. thanks for the TID info it will help. I still listen to everything using tone breaks, but use them to emphasis bullets and other cw relics if I can. I did several hunts in 50 tones and what a difference. I will spend more time in that mode also and may stay with it as I learn more a bout the audio responses. I guess that is kind of like using the tone breaks in your ears. I have a slight reduction in the high frequency ranges in my right ear particularly. I am not sure if this is why I am relying on tone breaks to boost the volume and pitch, but I suspect it is.

there are some battle areas that are in county property, eg lowlands that cannot be developed and when hunting those area, if not much trash I will adjust my mode of hunting. which in my opinion is what the 800 is designed for.

 

[pulltabfelix]

No such thing as one # to cover all buttons in all sizes and shapes and from just one part of history. Then, throw in the fact that soil conditions and corrosion will play a part on changing the ID of the same exact button and it is wide open. No, I don't own the EQ but it doesn't matter.
Why do you have to spend money on ebay to do an air test and why would you air test anyway since it really has no bearing on what you may find in the ground? ME? I'd go metal detecting instead.

but on further thinking on this matter you are most likey right in your response. cw battle field areas in north and nw atlanta tend to be in city and county public parks (not state and national) and running trails with lots of modern trash. Vferrari recommends 50 tones and digging everything above 10 on the nox TID.

I will have to try both and see which works best - tone breaks vs 50 tones. in 50 tones old bottle caps are easy to recognize. but the real difficulty is square pop tops, ring pulls that are right among the brass buttons territory. But, nobody ever told me that solving this problem would be easy since the metal detecting design engineers are pretty well up to speed on trying to solve this problem.

 

[vferrari]

but on further thinking on this matter you are most likey right in your response. cw battle field areas in north and nw atlanta tend to be in city and county public parks (not state and national) and running trails with lots of modern trash. Vferrari recommends 50 tones and digging everything above 10 on the nox TID.

I will have to try both and see which works best - tone breaks vs 50 tones. in 50 tones old bottle caps are easy to recognize. but the real difficulty is square pop tops, ring pulls that are right among the brass buttons territory. But, nobody ever told me that solving this problem would be easy since the metal detecting design engineers are pretty well up to speed on trying to solve this problem.

Yeah, if you are dealing with modern trash mixed in with relics (especially pull tabs) then there really is no magic bullet, unfortunately. You will have to dig it all to be sure.