Need help

[Erndog]

I have a Bounty Hunter Quick Draw II that I have had for decades. I haven't used it in quite a few years and had it sitting in my shed. I recently started getting the bug again so I dug it out of the abyss.

Obviously, it would not power up. Not that I would ever expect it to. However, like a real dumb ass I left the batteries in it all these years. The corrosion was bad enough to cause the tops of the batteries to tear off when I removed them. So I went out and got two new 9v connectors and just finished soldering them in a few hours ago. After painstakingly fishing everything back through the holes I reassembled the unit and mounted it. Upon turning it on I got no readout indications, beeps, or battery light. I went ahead and tried passing it over a steel splitting wedge just to ensure it wasn't working. Nope. I tore it down again and verified the battery wires were still intact and making continuity. Also verified 18v at the on/off switch. One oddity (to me); on one of the sets of battery leads, not only did I get good continuity, but when I tested from one connector terminal (+ I think) I got continuity to both the + and - on the board. However, the other wire didn't do that. I am not huge on electronics, but I suspect maybe a diode is involved. Also, the other battery connector's wires don't do this at all.

IDEAS??

 

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[Erndog]

So I'm not getting a lot of response here. Let me try something else. Does anyone have a schematic for this detector?

 

[Uncle Horscht]

Hi Erndog, can you take two Pictures of the PCB (Solderside and Partsside)?

 

[Erndog]

Hopefully these upload.

 

[Uncle Horscht]

Hi Erndog,
i'll try to help (sorry if my english is not 100% perfect).
If nothing works, it seems to be a problem with the supply voltage
1. The solder-joints on the PCB are horrible. Check if there are cracks around the soldered pins and resolder them to prevent defective contacts. (Maybe the solder joints of the mains-switch are cracked)
2. Measure the voltage at one OP-Amp TL064 Pin4 and 11 (middle pin on both sides) are for the operating voltage, from 4 (+) to 11 (-) there should be about 18Volts (+9V/-9V)
3. Check the connection between PCB and display/frontpanel

Good Luck

 

[Erndog]

Voltage across pin 4 and 11 about 500mV for both TL064's, regardless of switch position (max or min).

 

[Uncle Horscht]

Ok, the elektronics has no power.

It seems that there is a problem with the switch or the wires to the pcb
check the soldering of the pins of the switch,
check if the switch can turn on/off the power,
check the wires between switch and pcb...

 

[Erndog]

I think I may have misunderstood. Those readings were from pin 4 to 11. Today I checked from 4 to ground and 11 to ground, and I get 9vdc every time.

 

[Uncle Horscht]

Pin 11 should be negative (-9V)

 

[Erndog]

It may have been. I was just looking for the number. When I was getting (-) numbers I figured I had my leads backwards.

 

[Uncle Horscht]

Hmmm,
is there an extra PCB for Display, Indication LED, Speaker...?

 

[Erndog]

Nope, that's the whole thing.

 

[Uncle Horscht]

In the manual is written, if the cord (i think the coil-wire) i not connected correct, there is also no power indication. "No Power No Sounds -> Cord not connected securely -> Check connections"

Check the correct connection of the coil.

 

[Erndog]

Same issue when connected. Connection was clean, good, and firm.

 

[Uncle Horscht]

Hmmm. Can you check the resistance off the coils?

There are two coils (receive and transmit) each hat two contactors. Each coil should have resistance about 20Ohms or less. Is there a 5th contactor (extra shielding) there could be a connection to one side of one or both coils -> aprox 0 Ohms.

 

[boohboak]

i have problem too

 

[stoneshirt]

One at a Time,please.