Vikingblood, there is one thing you need to do. Photograph the "tip" head on, as seen in this example of a water worn flint point. Most points, but not all, will be bifacial, and most, but not all, will be bi-convex in outline when you look at tne tip head on. If we knew your piece were flint, and we don't know for sure, and if the outline as you show it, and the shape in profile match what it should be for a bifacial point, then I'd be inclined to see it as a water worn point.
But, if that is black shale, that is not a lithic material, and it's surely just a geofact, a look-alike non point.
I fully appreciate, and completely understand, why some here will say "not a point". But, I have shown examples that I know with absolute certainty are in fact points. Probably none better then the large Stark point, probably made of rhyolite, that I posted last.
Most hunters are lucky enough not to have to settle for points as water worn as some that I surface collect on Narragansett Bay. They are not exactly G 10 points! But, yes, you can recognize them. If it's a lithic used where found, and if the outline conforms from every single angle to the form expected for a bifacial point, I do indeed have all the confidence I need to say "I found a point". However, I don't expect others here to simply agree with me. I do understand very few collectors will look at your piece and immediately say "yep, that's a point." On the other hand, I really don't believe one always has to say "can never be proven". I do believe, using the steps I am describing here, yes, you can know if it's a water worn "erased point", or simply a geofact.
Anyway, here's a water worn flint point, showing a bi convex outline when looked at tip-on: