Seeking .22 rifle target rifle knowledge... building one

[Limitool]

Good choice on Kidd. Just out of curiosity, why a 20" barrel?

I wanted the extra weight. It also why I didn't opt for the fluted barrel also. I like the look of the fluted barrels but "looks" is not what I'm after. I did some research on KIDD, Volquartsen and Anschutz and just decided to go with KIDD. The machine work from KIDD just seemed to be outstanding especially the muzzle brake to barrel seam (no seam).

 

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[Limitool]

not as interesting, but i have been shopping for a 10/22 to keep on the atv and use as a barn gun. Stainless/synthetic.

I encourage ya to get one. Good choice on a rim fire rifle. My almost stock one has a 22" stainless barrel, walnut stock and a Ruger BX-Trigger. The stock trigger was about 6 lbs of pull to fire. My "drop in" new one is about 2.5 lbs of pull to fire. Very EASY and quick to change and WHAT A CHANGE IT MADE!!!! It was about $75.00 to change to the BX. My new 2-stage trigger is just 8 oz.! My 50 yd. groups tighten up with just the trigger change. There are many used 10/22's to choose from if money is a problem. You'll really like it wainzoid... Brad

 

[pinenut]

Another rimfire nut here. My coolest .22s aren’t semi autos for the most part but single shots, though I do have a Ruger MKII Gov. that I love. My very favorite rimfire is a Win 52c heavy, though I’m usually out with a Rem 40xb heavy. Got a couple Anschutz 1413’s, a 1913, Kimber 82g, custom Stevens 44-1/2 schuetzen, Marlin 2000, and several old pumps & levers, all rimfire. Still want a couple BSA Internationals -then- maybe I’ll be satisfied. ^_^

 

[pinenut]

rimfirecentral.com will be your best friend throughout your build.

And your wallet’s biggest enemy.

 

[releventchair]

And your wallet’s biggest enemy.

Seems a jig/tool was being loaned through a member ,or members ;to drill a hole in the rear of the receiver allowing cleaning from the breech end of 10/22's.
A pretty good value there!
(O.K. ,maybe not a good argument for greater interest equaling greater costs, I tried though l.o.l..)

 

[Limitool]

Another rimfire nut here. My coolest .22s aren’t semi autos for the most part but single shots, though I do have a Ruger MKII Gov. that I love. My very favorite rimfire is a Win 52c heavy, though I’m usually out with a Rem 40xb heavy. Got a couple Anschutz 1413’s, a 1913, Kimber 82g, custom Stevens 44-1/2 schuetzen, Marlin 2000, and several old pumps & levers, all rimfire. Still want a couple BSA Internationals -then- maybe I’ll be satisfied. ^_^

pinenut.... Glad to meet another rimfire NUT!!! This is my first attempt to build (hopefully) a high-end .22. When I started to experiment last year with high end ammo... I LEARNED A LOT! And I was using my almost stock (trigger change) Ruger 10/22. Then I learned that it wasn't just me shooting better with this ammo but my Grandson also w/his 10/22. Then Huntsman53 tried some and he did better. Then my new neighbor came up and he shot some through his .22 and shot better INSTANTLY! So I learned from them also. But I admit it comes at a high price. This ammo is not the typical "over the counter" ammo. I have bough many bricks of different "high end" ammo to play with. And I've learned EACH gun is different in what it LIKES to shoot. I can't explain... but it's a true statement. To YOUR credit nobody will argue the difference between a semi-auto and a bolt action single shot. No where close to apples to apples...!

UPDATE: My KIDD rifle hardware shipped out today and should arrive Thursday or Fri. at the local FFL place. So hopefully I can take all these parts (stock, scope, barrel/receiver) to my gunsmith, talk and then take a chill pill for awhile.

Anybody got any suggestions on my stock studs and the front/rear bi-pod items...? I want both. These items I have NOT ordered yet. I also want/need a QUALITY sling also.

QUESTION: If I use a front / rear bi-pod do I need to double up the stock studs or can they be used together? I'm thinking not... ANYBODY? Thanks, Brad

 

[pinenut]

Yep; good ammo isn’t cheap, but that doesn’t mean cheap ammo can’t be good - well, OK anyway. For my usual target shooting and plinking, I just use CCI standard velocity. It’s OK for cheap stuff. When I’m trying for good groups though, most of my toys like RWS Special Match best (even over R50; not sure why - maybe got some funky R50). I don’t compete, so I don’t buy much expensive ammo. Just break out the good stuff when I want to impress myself. ^_^

Can’t help with the bipod question; I just use Protektor sandbags at a bench most of the time, even with my 1413’s (position stocks). I probably should try a bipod.

 

[Dave Rishar]

I wanted the extra weight.

Personal preference or practical reason?

 

[trdking]

I love the Ruger 10/22 Have many of them in standard blue Nickel and custom trigger and barrel assemblies. I prefer the heavy hammered barrels for accuracy and they refuse to get hot.
My absolute favorite 10/22 frame is a Ruger .44 magnum semi auto carbine. It is a bad @$$ nail driver Tube fed instead of a magazine. If you can get your hands on one I highly recommend it!

 

[trdking]

I encourage ya to get one. Good choice on a rim fire rifle. My almost stock one has a 22" stainless barrel, walnut stock and a Ruger BX-Trigger. The stock trigger was about 6 lbs of pull to fire. My "drop in" new one is about 2.5 lbs of pull to fire. Very EASY and quick to change and WHAT A CHANGE IT MADE!!!! It was about $75.00 to change to the BX. My new 2-stage trigger is just 8 oz.! My 50 yd. groups tighten up with just the trigger change. There are many used 10/22's to choose from if money is a problem. You'll really like it wainzoid... Brad

Not sure if it has been discussed here about custom triggers. A 2 1/2 pound pull is excellent but what makes an excellent trigger is how quickly or short a distance forward on release that the trigger resets and can be pulled again

 

[Limitool]

Personal preference or practical reason?

Well Dave... Good questions (really). Your 1st question on "why a 20" bull barrel" was answered because of the "+ weight". And I should have said accuracy also (my bad).

This 2nd one I'll answer by saying "both" to your above question. And before you ask "why" I'll try and leap ahead of it. Now my answer is going to be personal and from a learned background. Without going into a absolute TON of background a lot of this preference is a carry over from shooting professional archery. I taught and helped set up all make and models of bows and shot many of them myself. I learned from my students and my own experience. The more weight and balance of a bow the more accurate it was. Same for bow draw let-off's. A 50% let-off bow is superior to say a 70% one. But it comes with the knowledge that YOU must be willing to build up the muscle fiber to draw out the advantage of weight.

So back to .22's now... My point of the heavier bull 920" barrel without flutes was to add weight because it's easier to hold still in the offhand position. But you have to realize when this advantage "peaks" during the shot or you have lost it. If you think it's wrong or know it is during aiming and squeezing then stop! Your still in control and can start over. And again the longer heavier barrel is more accurate itself but that advantage has to be "drawn" out of it. It can be a narrow margin or none for some people. Heavier slower arrows are more accurate then light fast ones.

So Dave.... with the above said and believed by me it now turns into a practical reason. And some may say bull... Limitool is off his rocker.... (they might be right!). But I used to shoot my target bow against some good offhand .22 shooters. The ones that always came the closest to beating me were the ones shooting the heaviest rifles. That's another reason I'm heading off into that direction on this first .22 target build. I want to see the guns overall balance when some tech work is completed by gunsmith. If it's too front heavy I'll be drilling and adding more weight to the rear.

Dave: Do you have some advise to share with me or some knowledge because I'm all for learning from the opinions and experiences of others guy! That's why I'm trying to tap out some knowledge from my fellow T-neter's. Your questions while short were SMART in my opinion.

 

[Limitool]

Not sure if it has been discussed here about custom triggers. A 2 1/2 pound pull is excellent but what makes an excellent trigger is how quickly or short a distance forward on release that the trigger resets and can be pulled again

Well I'm just gonna use this 1st build for strictly target. So I personally won't care about how quickly the trigger resets. I'll be taking one shot, chill... and then go to the next. But if ya wanna empty out a clip quickly I might care. I can't wait to see how this new 2-stage 8 ounce trigger feels.

I have a nice portable bench sled now and am going to start on a real heavy duty shooting table next. I'm going to bolt it down to my new shop floor also. I've never used a bipod before so I can't wait to try. I believe I bought I very good one today or so I hope ($100.00+). Like everything... the sky's the limit! I also bought the small fold up/down one for the rear. Now all I want is a good quality gun sling and unless I've forgotten that should cover it all... I HOPE! I'll post some pics when done. I gotta show somebody!

 

[releventchair]

Well I'm just gonna use this 1st build for strictly target. So I personally won't care about how quickly the trigger resets. I'll be taking one shot, chill... and then go to the next. But if ya wanna empty out a clip quickly I might care. I can't wait to see how this new 2-stage 8 ounce trigger feels.

I have a nice portable bench sled now and am going to start on a real heavy duty shooting table next. I'm going to bolt it down to my new shop floor also. I've never used a bipod before so I can't wait to try. I believe I bought I very good one today or so I hope ($100.00+). Like everything... the sky's the limit! I also bought the small fold up/down one for the rear. Now all I want is a good quality gun sling and unless I've forgotten that should cover it all... I HOPE! I'll post some pics when done. I gotta show somebody!

A friend visited a target range with me.
Now...I'm not saying your bipod has anything in common...

After he got fairly dialed in ,I asked if he was going to keep the bipod attached for all his hunting.
"No , why?"
Take it off and shoot a group....
A non "G" rated reply followed.

 

[Dave Rishar]

Well Dave... Good questions (really). Your 1st question on "why a 20" bull barrel" was answered because of the "+ weight". And I should have said accuracy also (my bad).

If you want weight (or as I suspect, weight out in front rather than just more weight for its own sake), then that barrel should do it. A longer barrel does not contribute to inherent accuracy (and only improves practical accuracy when there are sights on it); in fact, all things being equal, a longer barrel should be less accurate than a shorter one of the same. (There are some exceptions to this, but that's a subject better addressed by technical papers, which it has been.) It won't be a huge difference either way though, and you said that you wanted weight, so it probably doesn't matter anyway.

This 2nd one I'll answer by saying "both" to your above question. And before you ask "why" I'll try and leap ahead of it. Now my answer is going to be personal and from a learned background. Without going into a absolute TON of background a lot of this preference is a carry over from shooting professional archery. I taught and helped set up all make and models of bows and shot many of them myself. I learned from my students and my own experience. The more weight and balance of a bow the more accurate it was. Same for bow draw let-off's. A 50% let-off bow is superior to say a 70% one. But it comes with the knowledge that YOU must be willing to build up the muscle fiber to draw out the advantage of weight.

I know next to nothing about archery. I'll take your word on that.

So back to .22's now... My point of the heavier bull 920" barrel without flutes was to add weight because it's easier to hold still in the offhand position. But you have to realize when this advantage "peaks" during the shot or you have lost it. If you think it's wrong or know it is during aiming and squeezing then stop! Your still in control and can start over. And again the longer heavier barrel is more accurate itself but that advantage has to be "drawn" out of it. It can be a narrow margin or none for some people. Heavier slower arrows are more accurate then light fast ones.

Before I go any further, allow me to provide a little context. I spent a significant portion of my life hauling around heavy stuff, including guns. I didn't like it when I was young and I like it less now that I'm approaching middle age. When evaluating a firearm, my very first thought (after verifying that it works satisfactorily) is, "Can I get away with making this thing lighter?" Sometimes I can't. Usually I can. What I like and what you like seem to be opposites in many ways, which is why I asked the questions that I asked. I was curious as to why you wanted that. I can't disapprove of it any more than I can disapprove of someone's favorite color, but I approach it the same way: when I say that I like blue and someone tells me that they like red, I ask why - not because I disapprove, but because I'm genuinely curious.

As you said, back to the .22's. It sounds as if you're using that mass out front to damp movement. It's a valid approach. Service rifle competitors do it all the time. I'm not sure that it's the best approach with a rimfire though. There are other ways to tighten up a position.

So Dave.... with the above said and believed by me it now turns into a practical reason. And some may say bull... Limitool is off his rocker.... (they might be right!). But I used to shoot my target bow against some good offhand .22 shooters. The ones that always came the closest to beating me were the ones shooting the heaviest rifles. That's another reason I'm heading off into that direction on this first .22 target build. I want to see the guns overall balance when some tech work is completed by gunsmith. If it's too front heavy I'll be drilling and adding more weight to the rear.

Crazy is a matter of perception.

Dave: Do you have some advise to share with me or some knowledge because I'm all for learning from the opinions and experiences of others guy! That's why I'm trying to tap out some knowledge from my fellow T-neter's.

I may not be the best guy to ask, but I'll share my builds - one completed and one in progress - to compare and contrast, and perhaps show a little insight into how I think.

Build #1: Ruger receiver, Ruger bolt (with various mods), Volquartzen trigger, 16.5" Green Mountain barrel, Hogue stock, Leupold VX-1 on top. Receiver is pinned to stock. Barrel is pressure bedded with a tuning screw. Built in 2004.

Why? At the time, I was a poor service member with a nice, clean KD range to shoot at. This was meant for the bench only. I was on a budget, but I wanted something that would shoot well with budget ammunition. It would not normally be used beyond 50 yards, but a fun game that I used to play at the time was shooting at clays on the 200 yard berm, so it needed to be able to group at distance as well. Money was tight but time was not, so I could spend plenty of time tuning. The pinned/bedded setup was essentially the best way to do things back then if you were handy and had time, which I was and did. A higher magnification scope would have been more appropriate for 200 yard shooting, but I enjoyed the challenge and this heavy little sucker did go out into the woods for small game on occasion, making low magnification desirable. The 16.5" barrel was a compromise: I wanted a 14" barrel (you gain nothing but weight past that length with most ammunition) but WA state did not allow for SBR stamps back then, so 16.5" it was. Green Mountain was very highly regarded back then, yet was priced lower than most of their competitors.

Did it shoot? Hell yes, it shot. It shot like a house on fire. I spent many hours tweaking that thing just so to work with the cheap crap from Walmart and it was worth it. In fact, it worked so well that I got tired of shooting it. (The only other firearm that I ever had this problem with was a nice K31 after I mounted a scope on it. It rarely happens, but it's possible for a tool to be so good for the job that it's no longer fun to use.) Eventually I only shot it at 200 to keep things interesting, then I put together a bolt gun to do that job better, the county shut that range down, and the thing has gathered dust for the last 7 years. It's kind of a shame. If I counted my time, that was an extremely expensive rifle. I keep meaning to haul her out for a trip to the gravel pit these days, but I was an early adopter when Class 3 became legal in WA back in 2011 and this rifle just doesn't have a spot in the rotation anymore, yet I'm too fond of it to get rid of it. Sad, huh?

Build #2: Ruger receiver, Ruger innards which I may replace or modify...not sure yet. Stock is a PMACA chassis and a Shockwave arm brace that was freed up when an AR pistol "graduated" to SBR recently - I love recycling gun parts. No barrel yet, but I'm leaning toward simply cutting down a factory carbine barrel to 4.5" and having it threaded. Sight is undecided, but it will probably be a low magnification scope. An AFG will go on the front rail.

Why? I like light, and this is light; some of the spots that I shoot at require some walking, and as I'm already carrying ammo, water, other guns, and various crap, ounces become pounds and pounds become annoying. The PMACA/brace combo is slightly lighter than a factory stock, and the brace part was a cast-off from another project and had already been paid for. The 4.5" barrel is because this will only ever be shot with budget ammo and a suppressor mounted, and that's a good length to guarantee that budget ammo will exit the muzzle at a subsonic velocity. I'm opting for a modified factory barrel because I already have one (as every 10/22 owner does), they're pretty good barrels, the price is right, and I can always replace it later if it doesn't shoot. Because of the PMACA's mounting system and the tiny barrel, I'm not bothering with bedding anything here - it's not necessary, and the barrel is light enough that floating the barrel won't be a problem, even with the can on the end. The muzzle ought to be lively with so little weight on it, but I'll have a stock to lean on and I've controlled livelier things in the past, so I'm not worried about this - I'll be able to shoot it accurately enough. It's meant to take over 50+ yard duties from my MkIII, and that's basically how it's built: a suppressor host with a barrel short enough to keep the ammo subsonic, but with a shoulder stock for more stability, that just happened to use what was essentially a surplus firearm. Once the stamp is in and everything is assembled, I'll go ahead and throw some money at the trigger. I'll argue long and hard that a good trigger is not necessary for good shooting, but it's a pleasure to use and I have money to spare on tools that are enjoyable, so the trigger will be nice once I'm done screwing around with everything else. The resulting abomination of a SBR will be so godawful ugly that it will make your teeth hurt when you look at it, but art's for looking at and guns are for shooting by my way of thinking, and I don't have a problem with ugly guns if they shoot well - which I suspect this will.

Am I right? I'm right for me, but my views may not be right for anyone else. Firearms are very subjective. 10/22's may be the most subjective of them all. My father has one that he dressed up as a M1 carbine. It is one of the coolest and most fun firearms that I've ever shot, and the only reason that I didn't do the same to my 10/22 (the one that is becoming the SBR) is that I have an actual Inland M1 in fantastic condition, and I don't need something similar in a different caliber. Even a new factory-fresh 10/22, with its crap sights and plastic parts and lousy trigger is a lot of fun to shoot, particularly for someone that has never shot one before. I don't believe that there is a wrong answer, but merely best answers on a case-by-case basis.

That one got away from me and ran a little long, but you know what I'm trying to say. If you know what you want, build it. If you think that you want it, build it anyway; if it turns out that you didn't want it, you get to build another one. WINNING!

 

[releventchair]

Lock ,stock , and barrel.
Seems easy enough!

Only heavy barreled rimfire I own is a .22 /45 Ruger target pistol(?). Shoots great. Best performance ,in my opinion is due to it's grip/fit. Points naturally.

Heaviest rifle is a Ruger 77 varmint (or target if you please, I hunt with it) , in 25-06 and I swear it needs wheels to drag it around. Hate the weight ,but fella's She does well by me.

Never studied heat in varied barrel weights enough to argue either way. With a proper set up, heat waves probably affect my accuracy more. That and flinchin and jerkin the trigger and various puckering too probably depending on my caffeine level..

I get stuck in the first shot counts the most ,but want to call the next one if a follow up shot is in order. Some rifles need a fouled bore starting out to keep em tight. The 77 can with a clean bore shot and the following fouled. (Did I mention she treats me good?) Then groups on paper have to follow if at a range of course ,just to prove I can get a flyer in most of them. (Wind , bug in my eye , un noticed earthquake, moons gravity flare up ,ect. , couldn't be me ...)

 

[Limitool]

Dave... Thank you for your insight and response. I knew your questions didn't come out of the "blue". I suspected they came from experience and a want-on knowledge of "why". Same with me Dave. I believe you know much more than me in this field as I just entered it. But I didn't enter it blindly and hopefully my past will help me...?

First off I'll never be walking or toting this rifle around. That never entered into the equation of my build. My only PURPOSE was toward accuracy first from a bench rest and then holding for off-hand shooting. Now you say that nothing but weight is gained beyond a 16" barrel "with most ammo". I won't argue that point at all (your right). But longer barrels are made for a special purpose and with that said it is to shoot the special ammo into "above average groups" for a .22.

There is nothing wrong with a world class Volquartzen or Anschutz barrel or trigger at all. And I'd never argue with that because I have no experience with it. And all reports say they are world class! But the maker I chose for my first "class build" was KIDD. The only regret I have thus far I fear is the Strike Eagle Scope 4-24X50mm I'm mounting. I believe i now shouldn't have gone cheap on the scope. But that can be upgraded. But the KIDD 2-stage trigger "factory set" @ 8 ounces will be MORE pull then the archery target release I used for 2 years at the Las Vegas Open in 91' - 92'.

I have bricks/boxes of high end ammo to "learn" what this gun will like to shoot. And, I've ordered some more to "play" with. All same ammo and their lot numbers sometimes shoot different. I'm trying to learn now myself. I've never owned a world class .22 and I desire this rifle to be "better" than me. Same as when I shot pro archery.

So what's the point in all this...? I'd like to learn how to shoot the best .22 semi-auto rifle with properly matched ammo (eventually) and then possibly shoot against others soon. That's it... period. I've never done it... world class archery is gone now... but the mentality to get off a "good" shot is mentally and physically ingrained in me from pro-archery. I'm just trying to learn a new "sport" at age 63.

Dave... shooting at further distances would BE A BLAST... AND RIGHT UP MY ALLY BUDDY!!!!! Anything that is a challenge that I can possibly do I'd like to try. A short pulled release/squeezed trigger is NOT FOR THOSE LEARNING AT ALL. I believe they must "learn" what a good release/light pull is for. After that all the shot preparation will be a complimented... Brad

 

[Dave Rishar]

Only heavy barreled rimfire I own is a .22 /45 Ruger target pistol(?). Shoots great. Best performance ,in my opinion is due to it's grip/fit. Points naturally.

Those Ruger rimfire pistols are ridiculously good for the money. If your area allows it, strongly consider a threaded barrel and a suppressor for it. It will still shoot well, but it will now shoot well without hearing protection being required. It's difficult to believe just how much more enjoyable the rimfire shooting experience becomes when there is no worry about noise. A rig like this is not Hollywood quiet, but it's quiet enough to easily hold a conversation while you're shooting and more importantly, it's hearing safe.

I may be preaching to the choir for all I know. If I am, I apologize. For those of you that have this option and have not explored it, I implore you to do so. It really is that much better. Centerfires can be another story, but the rimfire pistol begs to be suppressed, and the Ruger models are nearly perfect hosts.

First off I'll never be walking or toting this rifle around. That never entered into the equation of my build. My only PURPOSE was toward accuracy first from a bench rest and then holding for off-hand shooting. Now you say that nothing but weight is gained beyond a 16" barrel "with most ammo". I won't argue that point at all (your right). But longer barrels are made for a special purpose and with that said it is to shoot the special ammo into "above average groups" for a .22.

Not trying to start an argument here, but the math says that barrel length (beyond a certain point) doesn't help, and can in fact hurt. The math is not always correct though, as the math cannot take every variable into consideration. What is more important is that the entire package shoots up to your ability to utilize it, and ideally a bit more besides so that you can grow your skills.

But the maker I chose for my first "class build" was KIDD.

I don't own anything from Kidd, but I know people that do. Their products are good to go as far as I'm concerned. I was looking at one of their barrels for the SBR build, but they don't make one quite as short as what I was looking for unless you ask. I figure that a factory barrel will do what I need it to do in this particular application, but if it doesn't, I will again be looking at Kidd. That was not a bad choice at all.

All same ammo and their lot numbers sometimes shoot different. I'm trying to learn now myself. I've never owned a world class .22 and I desire this rifle to be "better" than me.

For sure, and it will likely shoot better than you can. Some say that having a rifle that shoots better than it can be shot is wasteful, but that's only true if the shooter is not looking to improve. It sounds as if you are looking to improve.

So what's the point in all this...? I'd like to learn how to shoot the best .22 semi-auto rifle with properly matched ammo (eventually) and then possibly shoot against others soon. That's it... period.

It sounds as if you correctly identified what you're trying to do and selected an appropriate tool for the job. Any curiosity that I have about it is academic at this point. I would have selected something very similar for that job.

Dave... shooting at further distances would BE A BLAST... AND RIGHT UP MY ALLY BUDDY!!!!!

If you want to play that game, I have two recommendations:

1. Have the sun at your back. You'll be able to watch the bullets fly downrange through your scope, even at very low magnification. The shiny bullet bases reflect the light surprisingly well. This can help with #2.

2. You will need to dope the wind very precisely. It's amazing how far a slow 40 grain bullet will wander with even a little bit of wind pushing it, and it's incredibly frustrating to line up a good shot and then watch a momentary gust of wind throw your bullet into the next zip code. That's all part of the game.

And expect to see some weird stuff. Watching a bullet punch a perfect .22" hole in a pigeon without breaking or even cracking it is just odd, but odd things happen when you're using inappropriate chamberings. Seeing a slightly out-of-round bullet corkscrew around before veering off in a random direction is unbelievable, at least until it's seen. It adds to the fun. You can do everything right and still miss every shot, and you can screw up horribly and still break a clay. But when you do everything exactly correctly and the universe behaves itself, it is incredibly satisfying to watch that bullet arc way the hell up into the air, plunge down suddenly, and impossibly break that pigeon. It looks like it shouldn't have even been possible, but you just did it, so it is indeed possible.

Sort of a metaphor for life really. Perhaps that's why I enjoyed it so much. (Well, that and it was dirt cheap to play.)

 

[TerryC]

I will admit I did not read all the posts but..... why a .22 LR? You hamper your choices by this caliber. Why not maximize your efforts into a caliber you can reload? I had collected dozens of trophies (I'm bragging, now) albeit with a pistol. I used a .22 Smith mod 14 in 8 inch for practice but stuffed a .38 14 on the firing line. My pet load was 148 grains HBWC, 2.3 grains Bullseye, and a Win primer. My point being, you can do so much more, at distance, by doing a, say, .222 Rem from a 700 or so by loading your own. Difficult to reload LR. A 10/22 is a good choice. IMHO (and I'm not so humble) go to a center fire caliber. Can you tell I'm a center fire guy? ╦╦Ç

 

[Limitool]

I will admit I did not read all the posts but..... why a .22 LR? You hamper your choices by this caliber. Why not maximize your efforts into a caliber you can reload? I had collected dozens of trophies (I'm bragging, now) albeit with a pistol. I used a .22 Smith mod 14 in 8 inch for practice but stuffed a .38 14 on the firing line. My pet load was 148 grains HBWC, 2.3 grains Bullseye, and a Win primer. My point being, you can do so much more, at distance, by doing a, say, .222 Rem from a 700 or so by loading your own. Difficult to reload LR. A 10/22 is a good choice. IMHO (and I'm not so humble) go to a center fire caliber. Can you tell I'm a center fire guy? ╦╦Ç

Well I chose a .22 build because that's what another guy and I always shot against each other with. I'm 63 (yesterday) and he's 27. We've shot 5 times against each other and I'm 5-0. So he says that's the last time I'm losing against you. I'm buying a Volquartsen based on a 10/22 build and a new scope. I said I'll build one also based on a 10/22. We both agreed to keep it semi-auto. I really wanted to go bolt action but agreed to semi. He's still gonna lose because he gets "too nervous". He can't understand how someone over twice his age wins. I keep telling him why. It's called experience and I did shoot pro-archery in some HUGE tournaments across the U.S. so nerves are not a problem for me anymore. I also was buying different "high end" ammo bricks and experimenting which he started to do also. And TerryC I fault you not about your center fire mentality. I just personally like the challenge's of rimfire and playing with it. I totally realize it's limited.

NEW RIFLE UPDATE: Got all rifle parts from KIDD on Thursday. And I bought some very cheap 30MM rings just to mount scope. I got receiver / barrel mounted into the new Revolution thumbhole stock and the scope on to look at it. Now I'm waiting for the mono-pod, bi-pod, hard shell case, strap, flip scope covers and mounting hardware to all come in. Then off too the gunsmith to float and bed the gun. The only real expense left is a good set of scope rings ($140 +/- some) which I'm still a little confused with yet. I want the good rings to be just "slightly" higher then this cheap set. But I'll let the gunsmith measure and order the high end rings and lap them. Then in a few weeks it will be Volquartsen vs. KIDD. It should be fun! I ordered a brick each of Lapua Center-X, Exact, Midas + and Eley Tenex. I still have a few bricks of many of the Eley choices and a brick of RWS rifle match also to try. (And I ain't sharing no more) for him to "try". He's on his own now entering this league and it's required ammo.

Dave R.: Glad we agree on "desiring" equipment better than you/us. Without that mentality then you always "wonder" if/when you miss is you or is it your equipment. Now we all know getting a flyer from a .22 is par for course while shooting entry level ammo. Since I switched to the high end ammo not so much anymore. And hopefully the chambering action on this KIDD setup with be much superior to Ruger. But it is very expensive for just plinking around (which I don't do). For that I just use the over the counter stuff like Winchester, Remington, CCI or a few bricks of Armscor. Doing this build has got me wanting to compete again as in my archery past. I can't wait to play with it when complete.

 

[TerryC]

Don't get me wrong. The .22 is the most popular round in the world. I'm just a center fire guy. Tnx for responding. ╦╦Ç