110v pond pump vs 12v bilge pump

[n01d3x]

I have a blue bowl and am ordering a gold hog multi sluice. I primary use/will use both in my garage for cons. I have a 12v bilge pump for my blue bowl running off a battery. I don't have a charger and now the battery is dead. I don't see many people running 110v pond pumps with these type of systems and am wondering why not? You can get 1200 gph 110v pond pumps for between $50 and $100 depending on brand. Is there any problem with going this route?

 

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[Jimmydolittle]

Dang, 1200 gph seems like overkill for a blue bowl. The plans I bought for making a blue bowl runs off of a garden hose with a ball valve on it. Should work well for your mini, though.

I have a blue bowl and am ordering a gold hog multi sluice. I primary use/will use both in my garage for cons. I have a 12v bilge pump for my blue bowl running off a battery. I don't have a charger and now the battery is dead. I don't see many people running 110v pond pumps with these type of systems and am wondering why not? You can get 1200 gph 110v pond pumps for between $50 and $100 depending on brand. Is there any problem with going this route?

 

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[Goldwasher]

I run a 1000 gph bilge pump. With a brass gate valve
(hose bib) To a short length of garden hose. Very sensitive adjustment!

 

[Kenmitch]

Dang, 1200 gph seems like overkill for a blue bowl. The plans I bought for making a blue bowl runs off of a garden hose with a ball valve on it. Should work well for your mini, though.

He could probably just use a y fitting, ball valve, and some hose to send water back to the holding tank if need be. Ball valve on the return to tank for clarification. I'd imagine such a setup would allow enough flow/pressure drop to dial it in for the blue bowl. Sounds like it would work too me at least.

 

[n01d3x]

The pump has flow control on it, so I will just adjust it down for my blue bowl. I think it will also be nice for the multi sluice, for changing between run modes. Doc recommends changing the flow rate for different types of runs. He uses pvc reducers for this, but with an adjustable pump I should be able to do that without them. And the math would probably be the easiest/cheapest way, I didn't think of that. I think I will measure the flow rates and mark the dial so I'll know roughly where I'm at.

 

[kcm]

I'm not familiar with "pond pumps", but have lots of experience with sump pumps. If it were me, and I was using this near 120v access, then I would go with a sump pump such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pum...qid=1485756272&sr=8-2&keywords=sump+pump&th=1

It pumps up to 2400GPH, is small, energy efficient, etc. I've purchased two pumps from this manufacturer and will tell you this much - I will never again pay the over-inflated price for Wayne pumps!! This brand is awesome! VERY quiet! Also, there is a GFI adapter you can get for outlets that are not GFCI. You have a choice of replacing a breaker to your work area with a GFCI breaker, replacing just an outlet on a non-GFCI circuit, or adding a GFI unit such as an adapter or a short extension/adapter. Several different choices can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...refix=ground+fault,aps,327&crid=23BSBS1WL33SR

If possible, it would be best to change out a non-GFCI breaker for a GFCI breaker. Reason is, GFCI outlets will often trip off even if you do not reach their rated capacity. I would imagine the adapters/extension adapters would be similar. Also, my experiences with these go back many years ago. They may have improved in the past 10 years. Still, I promise you that GFCI breaker would be the overall safest and surest and most reliable route!

As for flow control, you could use PVC pipe and install a valve. Here I'd recommend a 1/4-turn valve, or maybe even an older valve that requires several complete revolutions to go full-on to full-off. 1/4-turn would be easier to mark, but more difficult to fine tune, whereas the other valve would be much easier to fine tune, if you can keep track of the revolutions. I especially like Kenmitch's idea of using a diverter valve, as that way you're keeping full flow through the pump, which it's the water flow that keeps these pumps cool. I don't know how the pond pump is cooled. Looks like it "might" be air cooled, or maybe uses a hybrid cooling system.

Keep in mind that if you use a 12v pump, the more water you move, the more amperage you draw and the quicker your battery drains. I recently bought a new battery charger that, upon initial impression, I had my doubts on. But after using it, I'm thoroughly impressed. I only wish they hadn't made the cover to house the cables, as the extra bulk makes it more difficult to position for closing the hood when temps are -30° or colder.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQSIWK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Kenmitch]

@kcm

The pump he ordered is submersible and plumbable if desired. Submerged i doubt there would be any heat issus. Depending on his sluice cleanup stages (flow requirement) he might be able to run blue bowl and sluice at the same using the Y fitting valve combo.

If I was going to run a setup that wasn't going to portable I'd probably just use 2 holding tanks plumbed together. Submerged pump in tank 2, use pcv pipe/fittings 3/4 of the way up to tie them together, return water goes into tank one, dirt, smaller heavies,etc will settle down, cleaner water goes back into tank 2. Maybe make a pull out tray in the catch tank to dump the material out easier? Or I think I've seen others on YouTube using a square seal bolted on the inside of the tanks/tubs that has a round hole in center that is rubber. Might be easiest way if you can find them.

 

[johnedoe]

Here's a simple method for a recirculating set up.... vid starts at the 45 sec mark.

 

[Kenmitch]

@johndoe

That looks like it would work. Might be somewhat costly once you purchase all the piping and fittings.

I'll try to find the video later. Might have been one of the Jeff Williams videos? Was pretty simple setup and a lot more cost effective if one has budget constraints.

 

[nh.nugget]

I have a home made blue bowl (actually it's black) I use a sump pump with a ball valve. I took a dish pan set the bowl on top, put a pool fitting in the dish pan ran a piece of pool hose down to a big tub with the pump let her rip!

 

[mike(swWash)]

As far as durability and longevity, the fountain pump is the best choice. Bilge pumps are only intended to be used for short periods and the life span is much shorter than a pump built to pump hours and even days on end without interruption.
I admit I use a 12volt pump, run from a ac-dc converter, on my garage based clean up sluice. However it's used about 5 times a year for about an hr each time right now.

 

[johnedoe]

@johndoe

That looks like it would work. Might be somewhat costly once you purchase all the piping and fittings.

I'll try to find the video later. Might have been one of the Jeff Williams videos? Was pretty simple setup and a lot more cost effective if one has budget constraints.

Here's a pretty good source for PVC parts ... https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Fittings-Elbows-90

 

[Kenmitch]

Here's a pretty good source for PVC parts ... https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Fittings-Elbows-90

MacGyver....Goes to auto parts store, looks at radiator hoses hanging, eyes nice larger ID one that's mostly straight, says I'll take 1 of those, stops at harbor freight, picks up adjustable hole cutter, goes home and grabs some scrap material for test hole fitment, drills holes in tubs, twists hoses into tubs. Friction along with rubber should seal it good enough, easy to separate, tubs still stackable. Probably wouldn't cost much in the end.

Oops....Thread is about the pump. Let us know how it works out when you get a chance to play around with it.