2 mile field walk this afternoon.

Blackfoot58

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Jan 11, 2023
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A lot more small Burlington Flint flakes.
The little man is 3” tall, for size reference.
The bottom row shows a lot of color.
These are just flakes, so I’m guessing that the heat treatment was done before the knapping. (?)
I had thought that the finished point/tool was heat treated, once finished. If so, why so many colored flakes? Trying to learn, sorry to sound lost.🤷‍♂️
IMG_2792.jpeg
 

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ToddsPoint

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Mar 2, 2018
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To heat flint you first have to reduce it to biface size pieces. The bifaces are buried in sand an inch or two deep. I’ve done it many times and there’s an art to it. First, you need 3 days with no rain. Day 1. You first start a small fire above the flint, let it go out and walk away. This initial heating dries out the flint. If you get it too hot to quick it will shatter when the moisture turns to steam. There is also long lag time for the heat to penetrate down to the flint. Day 2. Now you start a fire and slowly build it up until you have a good bed of coals. Fire needs to burn 4-5 hrs. Day 3. Scrape off all coals and let it cool. Any sudden change in temp now will shatter flint. By late afternoon of 3rd day you dig them up and see what you got. Some will be destroyed, some will be cooked perfect, and a few didn’t get hot enough to get glossy but will have some improvement in chipping. Heated flint has a sharper edge than unheated but heating makes the point more fragile. Paleo and early archaic rarely heated flint. Late archaic through woodland times used it a lot.
 

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