A Cautionary Tale of Moissanites, or the Great White Whale Debunked.

scaupus

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I finally found the Great White Whale that I'd been pursuing for the last year or so, on this Labor Day weekend, when I scooped up a 3 diamond engagement ring with a nearly 1 carat center diamond in a 14k white gold setting. I'd committed myself to finding a big diamond over a year ago, and finally, I succeeded!

A jeweler who has a shop inside a supermarket near my house checked them with an electronic tester and said they were diamonds. She looked at them with a loupe and she said she didn't see any occlusions. I was thrilled. I contacted my metal detecting buds. Cellular phones were buzzing with the news, and photos of my find were circulating among a small circle of treasure hunting club pals and other trusted buds. Guys were asking me where and how I found it. I now felt part of an elite group...the multi-thousand dollar diamond ring club.


And I had a very amusing story to add about the first jeweler I had taken it to, who had tested my ring and offered me $20 for it. He would not answer me when I asked him what it was, though he had tested it with a machine. He had touched the tip to the ring several times, looking at his machine, touching again and again. I thought I had seen 2 lights flash, and then the third light, a red one next to the word moissanite, had stayed on. From where I was standing, I couldn't read the words next to the yellow and green lights. The jeweler had continued to examine the ring briefly after the test, before offering me $20 for it.


I refused the offer, and left rather confused. I had heard of moissanite, but had never heard of anyone ever metal detecting one before. I thought they were pretty rare. I still had to get it tested by a jeweler who would communicate with me.


After doing some research, though, I don't really need to see another jeweler.
I will still get it tested, at a pawn shop, just to confirm my observations, but I already know the stones are indeed moissanites.

[PS. yesterday, Tuesday, a young gal working at a pawn shop tested the stones with a moissanite tester for me and confirmed all 3 stones are moissanite. So now I know for sure that double refraction is the way to tell without a machine. Another characteristic of moissanites that I am sure can bu used as a clue just looking at one with the naked eye before you check it with a loupe, is that they refract a lot more than a diamond and this gives them a rainbow sparkle. That, and the darker, yellowr/green color cast together should be enough for you to suspect moissanite.]

Moissanites sounds like some ancient order of eastern rite monks, but in fact moissanites, as most of you probably know, are a diamond simulant, almost all of which on the market today are synthetic, a process that went commercial only a few years ago. Synthetic moissanites combine the virtues of being an excellent diamond simulant with being very durable. They are even more fiery and sparkly than diamonds, and are more durable [9.25 on mohs scale] than even rubies and sapphires [9 on mohs scale]. Cubic zirconia [mohs 8] is not nearly as hard.

A good one the size of a one carat diamond will cost at new retail a few hundred dollars, whereas an equivalent diamond would cost several thousand. Many pawn shops discount the added value of the moissanites when they price moissanite jewelry, lending only on the gold melt value. I think they do this because moissanites are still not widely known and accepted by the public.

I also found out that there are three ways to distinguish moissanites from diamonds.


The first way is with a moissanite electronic tester. It will tell you if you have a moissanite, and some can also tell you if you have a diamond. There are machines that can tell you if you have a diamond or a CZ but will call a moissanite a diamond. Obviously, such a machine is worse than useless if you are testing an unknown stone that happens to be a moissanite, as it will call it a diamond. They work based on the rate of heat dispersion. It is this type of machine that my "good-news" jeweler used on this ring. These machines were very reliable before moissanites began being manufactured synthetically in recent years, since natural moissanites are very rare, but synthetic moissanites are for sale everywhere now, and the old machine can't be relied upon anymore to tell you if you have a real diamond.


The second way to tell a moissanite is by color. Moissanites are darker than diamonds. They tend to be yellower and/or greener than diamonds. Side by side with a diamond of good color, say a "G" color diamond, you may be able to tell the difference. But personally, I cannot rely on my color sense alone to tell me if a stone is a moissanite.


Luckily, there is another way we can visually distinguish moissanites from diamonds quite easily, and it is 100% certain, so long as you know what you are looking for. Moissanites are birefringent, meaning they refract,,,bend... a light ray that enters its surface in such a way that it splits into 2 separate rays. This is called double refraction. Diamonds refract light with just a simple bending of the one ray of light. That is called Single Refraction. CZ's are also single refraction.


If you look through one of the side facets of the moissanite gem with a good loupe or magnifier - that is through one of the crown facets, to use the correct jeweler's term - you will see some lines of light that look doubled, that is, two lines of light very close together, seemingly parallel to each other. That is birefringence, and if you see that, it is a dead give-away that you have a moissanite.


I find that a loupe of at least 8x is sufficient. I also have used an old german made photographic enlarger lens for the job. The old enlarger lens is of very high optical quality, so even though it doesn't enlarge as much as my 8x cheap plastic loupe, the excellent resolution and contrast allow me to see the double refraction quite clearly.


The first jeweler who offered me $20 was certainly low-balling me, hoping my ignorance would play his way. The melt value right now of the gold alone is about $90. A similar used three stone 14k moissanite anniversary ring with a 6mm central moissanite stone just sold at auction on ebay for about $225. All the other sellers currently offering similar used 3 stone rings on ebay are asking from $400 to $900. Retail new you can figure maybe $1500 at a big name retail store.



Well, a 14k white gold ring with 3 moissanites, with a total carat weight of about 1.5 carats is certainly a decent enough find. By the way, a one carat diamond is the same size as a .75 carat moissanite. Moissanites are a bit lighter.

Just to note what else I found this weekend:

1, a well made 925 silver ring marked AJ. I saw a recent sale of a similar AJ 925 ring on ebay for $50. There are a few more on sale now asking in the $60 range.


2. a goldplated .925 child's ring. Looks like a butterfly.


3, a pair of ray bans. Frame and lenses in very good condition, very few scratches or defects, except the lenses are a bit milky. Maybe a metallic coating on the lens reacted with the saltwater. Too bad.






























 

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sutphin

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YOU AINT DOING A THING UNLESS YOU FIND YOU SOME BLING. DAMN WHAT A RING AND PHOTO SHOOT TO BOOT. LOOKS LIKE A ADVERTISEMENT SHOOT WITH THE RAYBANS AND RINGS . HECK OF A NICE HUNT.
 

SusanMN

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Well, hell, sorry about the diamond that wasn't. Got you heart beating hard for a good long time, though, and you sure had the thrill of hunt. But has to hurt anyway.
 

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scaupus

scaupus

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i used to do catalog shoots back in the day. Just got a table and couple of fluorescent daylight bulbs for these shots.
 

stewielouie

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Nice haul, Ray ban will replace those lens if you send them in.
 

Erik in NJ

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Thanks for the education on moissanites. I do know that even a jeweler cannot distinguish a CZ from a diamond with the naked eye. I don't believe CZs have any occlusions and this is a give away with a 10x jeweler's loupe. What about moissanites?
 

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scaupus

scaupus

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Thanks for the education on moissanites. I do know that even a jeweler cannot distinguish a CZ from a diamond with the naked eye. I don't believe CZs have any occlusions and this is a give away with a 10x jeweler's loupe. What about moissanites?
Well, first thing that occurs to me is that you wouldn't want to give away an IF diamond thinking its a CZ just because you couldn't see a flaw in the stone. Of course, if a stone has defects, then yes, likely its real, but if you can't see defects, that doesn't necessarily mean its a cz.

Part of the problem is that we mostly look at mounted stones, and its harder to see tiny defects in a mounted stone. Add in the fact that most mounted stones that we get to look at are dirty. Also, there are the questions of proper lighting and the optical quality of the loupe. ..most of us use cheap, crappy plastic lenses.

Many diamonds fluoresce under a uv black light. CZ's do not fluoresce. I don't think moissanites do either, but don't quote me on that. Anyway, if a stone fluoreces, it's not a CZ, that's for sure. Fluorescence may be weak and hard to see, but in my experience, its usually quite obvious.

I'm not sure if synthetic moissanites have flaws, obviously natural ones can. Some of what I've read or seen on video seems to indicate that synthetic moissanites can have defects that occur in manufacturing. Anyway, since it's easy to see the double refraction in a moissanite, I'd say that's an easier method than trying to determine if a stone is really flawless. And I repeat, just because you think its flawless does not mean it has to be a simulant.

If the stone doesn't have double refraction, then you 'll know it's not a moissanite and must be some other kind of stone or substance, possibly a cz or diamond.
 

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CASPER-2

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a JH.jpg
 

Erik in NJ

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I use good ones. The Rubin & Sons loupe is composed of three lenses for image correction and is built like a tank. The Zeiss loupe is aplanatic-achromatic and has stacked 3x and 6x loupes that can be combined for 9x magnification. I have a couple of cheapies lying around to take out in the field if need be, but I rarely use them. It's worth investing a few dollars in a professional quality loupe.
 

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46Wheat

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That ring sure is a heartstopper
 

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