Advice for a newbie - selecting a detector

Hunterhound

Jr. Member
Jan 11, 2014
72
11
Kentucky
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Greetings all,

I would like some advice on selecting a detector. Based on other forum posts I've read and considerations from other sites online, I attempted to list all my requirements below. Please let me know if you need more clarification to make a recommendation.

What I want to hunt: I will be primarily concerned with locating old relics (preferably revolutionary war era), caches, and jewelry. I read that some detectors must be specially tuned to detect gold. I'm in this more for the historical treasures than to get rich so finding gold will not be a priority if the units cost significantly more. If the cost is negligible, who doesn't want gold! :) Coinage is also something I would like to find.

Where I plan to hunt: I will primarily hunt on dry ground though I would like to have the flexibility for creek bed (including shallow water if possible), and ocean/beach hunting.

Features: I've read forums suggesting a Garret Ace 250, Fisher F2, etc. for a starter detector. As I will want to get used to a device that will meet my needs and not have to change very often, I'd like one that will provide intermediate level features so I won't have to look at buying a new unit a few years down the road. That being said, I'm willing to start with a basic unit if I can be relatively certain it will find what I'm looking for (i.e. it'll reach the right depth, provide a long search time, work on the terrain i'm looking for, etc.) NOTE: While we're on this subject, what determines whether a device is beginner, intermediate, advanced?

Frequency of detecting: I would like to do this regularly provided I can get enough time outside during the year and the wife is supportive :). Also, living in KY, I believe the detecting laws are pretty limiting so I don't know how many areas I'll have available to hunt. Still, I would like to consider doing this at least once or twice a month once I locate some hunt sites.

Portability: I would like the device to be somewhat portable. It doesn't have to fold up to a small profile but we do have a Rav4 we normally take on trips and will need to have room for luggage if I take the detector with me. I drive a Mazda 3 and the back seats fold down if I need trunk space for the unit length but this will be limiting as well.

Accessories: I read that a good set of headphones and possibly a pinpointer device could be handy to have as well as a good digging tool. Can you provide recommendations on these and other useful accessories as well?

Cost: I was planning to spend around $300 max on the detector itself but after reading several forum posts, I'm not sure that will give me enough to get a unit with the features I'm looking for. Please provide your recommendation keeping cost in mind but do this knowing I understand I may need to put more money into this than I originally thought.

Lastly, I believe I saw somewhere that some people use different coils for their unit. Is this advised? Are they easily replacable in the field? What features do you gain by utilizing different coils?
 

Terry Soloman

Gold Member
May 28, 2010
19,423
30,109
White Plains, New York
🥇 Banner finds
1
🏆 Honorable Mentions:
1
Detector(s) used
Nokta Makro Legend// Pulsedive// Minelab GPZ 7000// Vanquish 540// Minelab Pro Find 35// Dune Kraken Sandscoop// Grave Digger Tools Tombstone shovel & Sidekick digger// Bunk's Hermit Pick
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
Start with a unit you can manually ground balance, like a Tesoro Vaquero ($450) Minelab X-Terra 305 ($400) Fisher F4 ($400) Garrett AT Pro ($479) because you have mineralized soils in Kentucky.

You need a Lesche hand digger ($40) and a finds bag ($20), keepads and gloves. You do not have to have a Garrett Pro Pointer pinpointer ($130), but it does help speed up recoveries.

Dry sand at a saltwater beach yes, but you'll need a pulse induction or multifrequency detector ($600-$1,500) to hunt wet sand and a wet sand scoop ($125-$200) to hunt wet saltwater sand and shallow saltwater. Do some more research and good luck!
 

OP
OP
H

Hunterhound

Jr. Member
Jan 11, 2014
72
11
Kentucky
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Thanks for the advice Terry. some of the terms you used are still foreign to me so i'll do some research on metal detector operation as well so I'll know what I'm looking at when I check out the models you mentioned.

That blows me away about the wet sand detectors. With all the old dudes walking the beach with detectors, I would have thought they were using simple units, not some expensive multifrequency thing. Shows how much I don't know LOL. Thanks again.
 

OP
OP
H

Hunterhound

Jr. Member
Jan 11, 2014
72
11
Kentucky
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Oh, and you mentioned needing multifrequency or pulse induction for wet SALTwater but what about FRESHwater. Will the units you recommended work for this or are the multifrequency type units required for shallow freshwater or wet freshwater sand as well?
 

Silver Simon

Hero Member
Mar 17, 2013
559
350
Coldwater Michigan
Detector(s) used
XP Deus
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Oh, and you mentioned needing multifrequency or pulse induction for wet SALTwater but what about FRESHwater. Will the units you recommended work for this or are the multifrequency type units required for shallow freshwater or wet freshwater sand as well?

I can speak for the AT PRO, it works in fresh and salt water, although it is not PI. It is a great waterproof detector for the price, and very easy to learn. It does well picking up gold, but it is not going to do well with tiny nuggets. Larger gold and things like rings or other jewelry will be no problem though. And you get a decent amount of power at that price point. I would hate to see you go too cheap, get hooked on the hobby, and then want to upgrade soon after your purchase. I bought the AT PRO for $500, and then a month later bought an E-Trac. If I could do it over, I would have just got a CTX 3030 and called it a day. Although it's nice to have 2 decent detectors, in case 1 needs serviced or a buddy wants to give it a try.

The point is, don't rush it. Take your time, do plenty of research and watch YouTube videos of other MD enthusiasts.
 

Terry Soloman

Gold Member
May 28, 2010
19,423
30,109
White Plains, New York
🥇 Banner finds
1
🏆 Honorable Mentions:
1
Detector(s) used
Nokta Makro Legend// Pulsedive// Minelab GPZ 7000// Vanquish 540// Minelab Pro Find 35// Dune Kraken Sandscoop// Grave Digger Tools Tombstone shovel & Sidekick digger// Bunk's Hermit Pick
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
In Freshwater you'll do fine with these single-frequency detectors.

Single frequency VLF machines (Very Low Frequency), have even more limitations in the harsh saltwater environment. Take for example the Tesoro Lobo Super Traq. This VLF single frequency machine (17.9Khz) is one of the finest and deepest gold nugget finders on the market today. The Lobo Super Traq, is capable of finding BB-sized gold nuggets six-inches deep in heavily mineralized ground, or a nickel in dry beach sand at 12-inches. Put that same nugget – or even the nickel, seven-inches deep in wet saltwater sand and the Lobo could walk right over it while chattering, or maybe without seeing it at all. Why?

The magnetic iron sands (“Black Sands”), salt, and high concentrations of other minerals in the water and sand conspire to bounce the radio waves away from the target. Conductivity and mineralization act like a shield around the target and create white noise that must be filtered electronically. Think of it as turning on your bright headlights in a heavy fog at night. All that powerful light is diffused and causes a complete white out – you can’t see anything three-feet past the hood of your car! However when you turn on your yellow fog lights, you can see a little further – not as far as you could in clear daylight, but further. That is why all radio wave machines must be “ground balanced” or tuned, to maximize their depth potential, and why multi-frequencies are so effective – yet still limited.
 

OP
OP
H

Hunterhound

Jr. Member
Jan 11, 2014
72
11
Kentucky
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I can speak for the AT PRO, it works in fresh and salt water, although it is not PI. It is a great waterproof detector for the price, and very easy to learn. It does well picking up gold, but it is not going to do well with tiny nuggets. Larger gold and things like rings or other jewelry will be no problem though. And you get a decent amount of power at that price point. I would hate to see you go too cheap, get hooked on the hobby, and then want to upgrade soon after your purchase. I bought the AT PRO for $500, and then a month later bought an E-Trac. If I could do it over, I would have just got a CTX 3030 and called it a day. Although it's nice to have 2 decent detectors, in case 1 needs serviced or a buddy wants to give it a try.

The point is, don't rush it. Take your time, do plenty of research and watch YouTube videos of other MD enthusiasts.

I appreciate the advice. I have watched a few Youtube videos but I confess, I've been more interested in seeing people finding loot than finding a detector. Cart before the horse I guess :) Yeah, that CTX 3030 has a pricetag that almost made me fall out of my chair. I understand you'll get what you pay for but wow, wasn't expecting that. My problem is I don't know if this is going to be a fad hobby for me so I don't want to go too cheap that I won't find good results and will have to upgrade soon but I also don't want to go too pricey as don't know how long I'll be able to stick with it or if there are external forces (like real life responsibilities..I know right? :)) that will keep me from making good use of the purchase.
 

OP
OP
H

Hunterhound

Jr. Member
Jan 11, 2014
72
11
Kentucky
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I appreciate the explanation Terry. after your previous post and not having a clue what you meant by Pulse Induction or Mult-frequency, I found a page on Minelab's website full of terminology. For those interested, the link is: Terminology | Minelab Knowledge Base. After reading over that site, I feel much more comfortable with being able to look at detectors and know what I'm looking for. My thoughts are that I should be looking for something with the following stats based on what I want to do with it. Try not to laugh too hard if I label something wrong below LOL.

Frequency capability: BBS (Broad-band Spectrum) or FBS (Full-band Spectrum) with MPS (Multi-period sensing?) (Minelab's proprietary PI tech)
Coil: Double-D or Monoloop for broadsweeping detection at a good depth <-- Are these replaceable easy enough in the field, say to sweep an area again with a different coil for more results?
Discrimination: Notch-filtering
DVT (Dual-Voltage Tech)
Ground Balancing: Automatic or Continuous
Good Noise Cancellation

Now the trick is just seeing how many of these features I can get without going over budget.

Question on VLF: From what I read, VLF can provide better depth, especially with a double-d coil, but it can also cause you to miss small targets. Is VLF recommended in this case or should I look for something with a higher frequency and sacrifice a few inches of depth? Given I'm after Revolutionary era relics, I'm guessing they'd be buried further down?
 

Fletch88

Silver Member
Mar 7, 2013
4,841
2,367
Valdosta, GA
Detector(s) used
Garrett ATPro- 8.5x11, 5x8, CORS Fotune 5.5x9.5
Tesoro Silver microMax- 8 donut, 8x11 RSD, 3x18 Cleansweep
Minelab Excalibur ll- 10" Tornado
Minelab CTX 3030
Minelab Xterra 305
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Just start with an ATPro and see how it goes. You can water hunt, relic, coin shoot, etc and if you don't like it it will be an easy sell! It's a good all around detector without spending a $1000 or more.
 

Terry Soloman

Gold Member
May 28, 2010
19,423
30,109
White Plains, New York
🥇 Banner finds
1
🏆 Honorable Mentions:
1
Detector(s) used
Nokta Makro Legend// Pulsedive// Minelab GPZ 7000// Vanquish 540// Minelab Pro Find 35// Dune Kraken Sandscoop// Grave Digger Tools Tombstone shovel & Sidekick digger// Bunk's Hermit Pick
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
A "Concentric" coil is actually deeper than a Double D coil most of the time - the exception is in highly mineralized soil. Pulse induction is deeper than both single- and multi- frequency VLF. The main concern is making sure you get a machine that you can manually ground balance so that you can get maximum depth.Tesoro Vaquero; Tesoro Tejon; Garrett AT Pro; Teknetics T2; Minelab 505; Minelab 705; etc-etc.
 

Silver Simon

Hero Member
Mar 17, 2013
559
350
Coldwater Michigan
Detector(s) used
XP Deus
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Just start with an ATPro and see how it goes. You can water hunt, relic, coin shoot, etc and if you don't like it it will be an easy sell! It's a good all around detector without spending a $1000 or more.

You can't go wrong with that advice, the ATP is solid, and being waterproof is always good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

OP
OP
H

Hunterhound

Jr. Member
Jan 11, 2014
72
11
Kentucky
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
So after reading: http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/metal-detecting/65698-manual-vs-auto-ground-balance-what-do-u-think.html, it seems that manual ground balance is better on some units vs others depending on the other circuitry and internal logic of the MD. I'm fine with buying off on the fact that manual ground balance is better as I like the idea of having more control over the unit. The only question I have on this is how do you know when to make adjustments? I'd hate to pass over a find location because the soil mineralization changed enough that my GB'd machine didn't pick up the target.

I'll check out some review videos of the units on youtube tomorrow. The AT Pro video I started watching today seems like it will be helpful.
 

Terry Soloman

Gold Member
May 28, 2010
19,423
30,109
White Plains, New York
🥇 Banner finds
1
🏆 Honorable Mentions:
1
Detector(s) used
Nokta Makro Legend// Pulsedive// Minelab GPZ 7000// Vanquish 540// Minelab Pro Find 35// Dune Kraken Sandscoop// Grave Digger Tools Tombstone shovel & Sidekick digger// Bunk's Hermit Pick
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
So after reading: http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/m...l-vs-auto-ground-balance-what-do-u-think.html, it seems that manual ground balance is better on some units vs others depending on the other circuitry and internal logic of the MD. I'm fine with buying off on the fact that manual ground balance is better as I like the idea of having more control over the unit. The only question I have on this is how do you know when to make adjustments? I'd hate to pass over a find location because the soil mineralization changed enough that my GB'd machine didn't pick up the target.

I'll check out some review videos of the units on youtube tomorrow. The AT Pro video I started watching today seems like it will be helpful.

Sometimes, most of the time, you can ground balance once and be done. Sometimes though, soil conditions change evey 15-feet. I check my ground balance once every 15-minutes or so on unfamiliar ground just because I'm paranoid about such things. One way to tell you may be out of balance are lots of false signals. This usually happens in mineralized soils. It takes practice and getting used to your machine. Ground balancing is simple and it is important. Just one more skill you'll pick up no matter what machine you choose. Check out how easy ground balancing is:
 

Sandman

Gold Member
Aug 6, 2005
13,398
3,992
In Michigan now.
Detector(s) used
Excal 1000, Excal II, Sovereign GT, CZ-20, Tiger Shark, Tejon, GTI 1500, Surfmaster Pulse, CZ6a, DFX, AT PRO, Fisher 1235, Surf PI Pro, 1280-X, many more because I enjoy learning them. New Garrett Ca
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
What many new comers don't realize is with a double D coil you will not only cancel more minerals but you don't have to over lap your sweeps as much because the coil's field is about as wide at the bottom as it is at the top, where as a concentric coil goes down like a ice cream cone with the deepest in the center. 233.jpg 241.jpg hence with a DD coil you will find more due to covering more ground at depth. Follow Terry's advice on detectors as it is the same I would have given you. BTW, I don't like my AT PRO because it had to be sent in a few times and now I don't trust it. But I am fortunate enough to own a few more that I think are better for my hunting. For relics I prefer the Tejon but that's just me. http://www.losttreasure.com/content/archives/tesoro-electronics-tejon
 

Last edited:

whitewill_1

Jr. Member
Jan 5, 2013
61
19
Pittsburgh PA
Detector(s) used
Teknetics T2, Whites TDI, FISHER F2, BOUNTY HUNTER JUNIOR, WHITES COINMASTER 6000Di S2, Garrett ProPointer, FISHER PINPOINTER, SUNJOE HORI HORI DIGGER
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
Take a look at the Whites M6. It is very simple to use, gets good depth, and is said to be great on salty beaches too. Also alot of coil choices available. You definitely want a good pinpointer like the Garrett PRO Pointer.
 

Top Member Reactions

Users who are viewing this thread

Latest Discussions

Top