Another New Detector Post

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RevSpongeBobSP

Guest
I am looking at buying my very first detector from kellyco.com and was looking at the Titan 3000-XD and the Whites Classic 5ID.

I live in Central Michigan and want to use it for playgrounds, the occasional beach run and general hunting for lost and forgotten treasures around old homesteads.

Any suggestions or comments on these two detectors, or should I be looking at something else in this price range of $379? It comes with digging tools and a whole lot of other items including a second coil, some books and other items.

Thanks for the info!
 

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Sandman

Gold Member
Aug 6, 2005
13,398
3,992
In Michigan now.
Detector(s) used
Excal 1000, Excal II, Sovereign GT, CZ-20, Tiger Shark, Tejon, GTI 1500, Surfmaster Pulse, CZ6a, DFX, AT PRO, Fisher 1235, Surf PI Pro, 1280-X, many more because I enjoy learning them. New Garrett Ca
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
If you have no other dealer where you can visit, you aren't stuck with KC. The "free stuff is reflected in the price of the detector"
As for these two detectors, you can do lots better for less money too. I suggest you check out the Garrett ACE 250 for near $200. or less. There are many here that swear by using it. I too live in Michigan and have lots of experience with many detectors as do many here on this forum.

HH,
Sandman
 

hollowpointred

Gold Member
Mar 12, 2005
6,871
56
Detector(s) used
Minelab Explorer SE/Garrett GTI 2500/ Ace 250
i agree with the sandman. you would do better with an ace 250.
 

OP
OP
R

RevSpongeBobSP

Guest
Thank you for the input guys. Is there a good source in Michigan for this detector or should I keep with Kellyco?

I know the free stuff is reflected in the price, but from what I have read I would need a lot of it anyhow, or at least some of it. I was looking at http://www.kellycodetectors.com/garrett/garrett-ace250pro.htm

Again, thank you for the input!
 

Z

ztzzt

Guest
If I were you I would disregard the folks that tell you to buy from a local dealer and buy it the cheapest place I could find. I bought my Ace 250 and paid 270.00 with tax and got NO freebies. I wish I had saved some money and bought it over the net. Local dealer is little help and gave me the song and dance of the pitfalls of online shopping and come to find out that is where he does most of his business. I could have saved quite a bit had I bought it from him online. I found this out on my own of course after the fact. The best support is form the kind folks on this and other internet sites. Just my $58.00 worth. Happy huntin'.
 

drver

Full Member
Sep 24, 2006
126
0
Wilmington, N.C.
Detector(s) used
Ace 250
ztzzt said:
I found this out on my own of course after the fact. The best support is form the kind folks on this and other internet sites. Just my $58.00 worth. Happy huntin'.

And local fellow hunters, clubs and the like.
 

l.cutler

Silver Member
Dec 2, 2006
2,667
2,012
NEPA
Detector(s) used
Tejon, Cibola, T2
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
I buy from a local dealer and get the same price as Kellyco. Don't be swayed by the freebies, most are not worth much. Check out some of the posts about problems some folks are having with detectors that could have been solved with a hands on demonstration. There is nothing wrong with buying online, and many of the companies are good, but if you have no experience with a metal detector sometimes a hands on lesson is invaluable. There are many other detectors that fit your price range as well, a dealer who carries all the brands will give you the greatest options. The Tesoro line is great as well. Kellyco does not carry them so you may want to check them out, lifetime warranty and some of the best values in the market.
 

Jason in TN

Bronze Member
Oct 29, 2004
1,253
19
East Tennessee
Do not think that you will beat the Ace 250 for the price. I do not like Kellyco. I would try to buy from a local dealer most will match or beat kellycos price. Mine does.
 

TonyinCT

Sr. Member
Mar 14, 2006
455
2
Granby, CT
Although its true that local dealers can be better with help and hands on demonstrations , many do not use what they sell and many don't stock or know how to use what they sell very well. Dealers on the net are local dealers also but have put in the time and effort to have websites. Most I know are very knowledgeable and can help you out as much as the local guy. Prices are dictatedby the dealer but discount prices are the same for every dealer. As far as freebies ; some big dealers show freebies that are given by the manufacturer and make it look like they are giving them out.Some of the other freebies are junk with inflated prices. I also think you should look at the Tesoro line. Hope this helps you out. :)
 

Phantasman

Gold Member
Nov 24, 2006
15,888
24,053
NE Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Nokta Simplex, Land Ranger Pro, Quick Draw Pro, Deteknix XPointer
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
Rev, I am slightly ahead of your quest. Here is what I did.

First, READ THESE FORUMS. There is a lot of info here about the type of soil in your area, and what detectors "seem" to work best for the area you have listed. Don't reinvent the wheel. Learn from others mistakes and positive experiences.

Second, go to metealdetectorreviews.com and read about what others say about their detectors. Some people on the site may say that a particular detecotor is "not a good purchase", but look for a patten rather than one post declaring a negative, as some dealers may be trying to sway your decision.

Third, check out the sites of the detectors homepage. Most will let you download the manual. Read it. Get an idea if it's learning curve is easy enough for you to understand. There's nothing worse than getting a detector and spending most of your time figuring out how to set it up. Start with something you are comfortable with, and move up after you "learn the ropes". Some people get the idea that the more you spend for a detector, the less trash you will dig. I didn't find that to be true.

Fourth, find a good dealer. Make sure you get someone who has a good rating on after the deal support. I would not be swayed by the "free stuff". Support is so much more important. My local dealer was just as cheap with the detector, and his info far outweighed the "cheap crap" I was going to get from online sales. Also ask about return policy. Some online dealers charge 15% if you don't like the detector and wish to upgrade.

Fifth, once purchased, bring your butt back here and communicate any difficulties or questions. There are a great group of people here that are more than willing to jump in and help you get your full enjoyment of your detector. Support here is usually better than anywhere.

And finally: Don't get discouraged. Have patience. Too many people think they are going to pay $XXX for a detector that is just going to go out and identify every dime, quarter, penny, etc. under its coil and all you have to do is dig it up. Voila! Instant Piggy Bank!................NOT! It takes time, as there are many variable that affect the coils ability to give a perfect signal. Those, my friend, are what you are going to have to learn, with much experimentation. Doing what works best for you.

For me, metal detecting is finding as much trash as possible and separating anything of value out of it. If you go out thinking your metal detector is going to pull all the coins out for you, you will get discouraged quickly. After all, if it was that easy, everyone would be doing it.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Dan

BTW: I bought the Garrett Ace 250 and a sniper coil.
 

Phantasman

Gold Member
Nov 24, 2006
15,888
24,053
NE Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Nokta Simplex, Land Ranger Pro, Quick Draw Pro, Deteknix XPointer
Primary Interest:
Metal Detecting
I also think you should look at the Tesoro line.

Tesoro is a great detector. The reviews on it are awesome, especially the Cortes, which I am looking at. The only thing with Tesoro, is that their lower end detectors depend on sound only, and it may be easier for someone new to MDing to have a visual display to help in telling what the detector is saying. Its easier to look at the display to see that something is around 4" down, than to try and listen for a signal depth.

Just my opinoin.
 

l.cutler

Silver Member
Dec 2, 2006
2,667
2,012
NEPA
Detector(s) used
Tejon, Cibola, T2
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Good point Phantasman, however sometimes more information can mean more confusion for someone new to the hobby. When the detector says half dollar at six inches, and it is actually a soda can at twelve inches it can be disconcerting. I guess everyone is different in what they want in a detector, it is much like buying a car. I went through three or four detectors before I figured out what features I liked, which were unimportant, and which I absolutely disliked. Whatever the choice, learn the detector and don't get discouraged.
 

OP
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R

RevSpongeBobSP

Guest
Again,

I have to say thanks to all of you for your input and support. I am happy I found this site and am able to pick you brains.

I called the only "local" shop less than 60 miles away and they are run out of guys basement and have one detector in stock with no accessories. The manual was on video, vhs and he said he would try to convert it to CD for me as his other side business is computers. I think I will pass on this deal but am going to stop and check him out anyhow for future purchasing.

I am leaning real hard towards the Garratt Ace 250 right now, but am still not sure. Jays Sporting Goods is only about an hour from here and I know they carry White, so I am going to drive up there during the week and will at least handle some of them to see what feels good as well. Just to have an idea.

Again, Thanks for all the help and info, it is truly appreciated!
 

dahut

Hero Member
Nov 6, 2004
809
54
Lee's Tavern Road
Detector(s) used
21 years behind a coil

Fisher F70
Bounty Hunter Lone Star
Tesoro Tiger Shark
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Dealer or Net? This can be broken down pretty simply. Support your local dealer, but if you lack confidence in him or her as a source, then buy on the Net. Many local dealers ARE basement sellers and do it as a sideline. But don't sell them short - this doesnt mean they arent any good, nor that they can't be good business men. I used to be a dealer and bent over backward to be a damned good one. It's an indvidual thing. IF you recall, Bill Gates started in his garage...

Dan made a good point, SOME ID is helpful for the newbie. It gets to be a crutch and actually prevents digging, though, so beware. Remember, your job as a detectorist is to recover items, not let a display make decisions for you. BURN THAT INTO YOUR MEMORY.
But his point was well said - newcomers do well with some minimal ID features.

You didn't mention your budget. Most sources, net or dealer, should come close on pricing, too, as the "discounted prices" you see are really fixed at the outset.
Freebies are usually junk, although sometimes they're useable. But they arent the end all, as most have noted, and shouldnt be your deciding factor. Value for your money, usefulness and resale value should be what decides you.

Yes, I said RESALE VALUE. You may find that this isnt for you, especially after you dig another handful of trash. Some poeple actually believe all the hype about detectors telling "treasure from trash" and soon get discouraged over finding so much of the latter. I hope that doesn't happen to you, but if it does, youll want a model that is in demand on the used market. Thats Garrett, Fisher, Tesoro and Whites, my friend.

Good first detector? Ace 250, possibly the best as new. One of the Whites Prizm series is a good choice, too, and they are smoother than the Ace, IMHO. Tesoros are very nice with a superb warranty. They have no ID models until the Golden is reached, but they can't be beat and just might be the best bang for the buck. Buy them used and the FREE REPAIR warranty transfers. May people do well with Bounty Hunters and their various offspring, but I can't endorse them - they aretoo shoddy for my tastes.

Believe it or not, which detector to buy is only one of your issues. It is the most talked about, yet in my opinion, isthe least of your worries. Most any detector from a major maker in the $200-$300 price range will give you years - yes, years - of dependable, fun service. I know that tends to kill the fun of endlessly wrangling over which is best, but is't fact.

Okay, so now that I've said it, let me back it up. Just WHAT are these other things you need to concern yourself with? Glad you asked! Here they are in list form. This is the stuff you learn the hard way - or wish someone would have told you in the beginning. Now you dont have to wait for either.

Good Hunting, my friend.

"Dahut's Secret Tips to Success...for Newcomers"

1. Equipment is NOT the answer.
The other, more crucial element is MINDSET. We tend to be techno-dependent, expecting gadgets to do all things for us. Guess what? People were finding treasures before detectors came along. The difference is they knew what to look for and had some idea where to find it. You do the same. Do buy a quality detector, then consider it merely the means to an end. As I like to say, "Know Before You Go."

2. Dig, man dig!
You wont find anything if you don't and you won't learn what your machine is, either. Your goal is to become an object recovery specialist, not an object locating expert.

3. DO NOT rely on that meter or display.
There is a mountain of hype that claims this detector or that detector can tell "trash from treasure." DO NOT believe it. There is A LOT of junk out there and most of it masquerades as good stuff. You will find trash and plenty of it, so start developing a cavalier attitude to it early on. See, TIP #2 .

4. Turn the Sensitivity down to start.
Dont expect to find stuff halfway to China, as most good things are within the first FOOT, usually less.
That's the good news.
Here's the bad: SENSITIVITY (gain) increases cannot "suck in" what isn't there to start with. Rather, gain that is set too high only results in false signals and lots of frustration.

5. Set time limits.
a. Plan to detect for a certain amount of time, as often as possible. Like any activity, good practice makes you better.
b. DO NOT detect longer that you should - set a limit on that, too. Remember you have a job and a family and friends.

6. Set Recovery Goals.
A certain coin, or artifact, a certain number of coins, etc. Then work to achieve them.
Some say that this is "just a hobby and goals are for work." DO NOT believe that, either. Achievement/success is utterly dependent on your ability to push yourself beyond the simple, past the easy frontiers.

7. Carry your detector with you as much as possible.
You never know when a chance to detect will come along. But dont leave it in your car, longterm - EVER!! We're talking about sensitive, costly electronic instruments here.The heat and jostling is murder on them and thieves know what they are worth, too.

8. Learn about your area and what you might actually find.
Do a little research about every possible place you might consider detecting, from the local park to vacant lots. It does no good to take your detector to a barren parking lot. I tried it once...I'm right.
The park in my city was once an old home place, then a housing area through the 50's and now a modern park. The old coins and stuff are NOT where the modern play grounds are - and few know it but me. Get the point?

9. Talk to your friends and family about your new hobby.
Include the strangers you meet too, like folks in the checkout line or ban tellers. Ask if they know any old places, or good modern places, where lots of people have been active. Make up some simple personal introduction cards on your computer, naming you as "Detectorist." People respect credentials and beinng an ambassador of the hobby will open doors for you.

10. Plan to do all sorts of detecting.
You are new and this hobby has lots to offer. Dont imagine yourself only "this sort" of detectorist or "that sort." Try it all.

11. Learn the Detectorists Code of Ethics.
And practice good recovery techniques, ALL THE TIME. Few things will sour you on this hobby like being ticketed for leaving holes behind you or getting busted on private property. I learned this last one the hard way, at the wrong end of a shotgun - don't repeat my mistake

12. Get a durable carry bag and keep these things in it:
+ Extra headphones - A broken set of phones will ruin any hunt.
+ Extra batteries for your unit(s)- Likewise, a set of dead batteries is a fun-buster.
+ 2 Digging Trowels - NOT the crap from WalMart's garden section. Get purpose built tools.
+ An inexpensive sand scoop. There are an amazing number of easy-digging sandy spots to hunt. You'll thank me for suggesting this one.
+ 1 recovery apron - Most home centers sell nail aprons for a $1. They''l do.
+ 1 10" probe - I make mine from a 3/16" piece of brazing rod and a section of old broom handle. Use this to probe for coins beneath the turf.
+ 1 10" long screwdriver - for "popping" the coins you probe from the turf.
+ 1 8-10" inch hunting knife - Just plain useful. Cuts roots, plugs in grass, etc.
+ Garden gloves - ones you can manage dextrous work in.
+ Super glue and duct tape - you don't need this explained, right?
...You can have more but you'll need these things, sooner or later.

BONUS TIP #13: Determine to Have Fun!
copyright, DDH/Dahut, 2006
 

PBK

Gold Member
May 25, 2005
6,380
270
"Dahut's Secret Tips to Success...for Newcomers"

Great post! Why not expand it just a bit and submit it with a few photos to Western & Eastern Treasures? Looks like a perfect fit for their "Beginner's Luck" department!
 

dahut

Hero Member
Nov 6, 2004
809
54
Lee's Tavern Road
Detector(s) used
21 years behind a coil

Fisher F70
Bounty Hunter Lone Star
Tesoro Tiger Shark
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Why not indeed!?
 

OP
OP
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RevSpongeBobSP

Guest
I was thinking the general looking around approach would be the way to go. I like to get out and find mushrooms and wild leek, but at 43, I am finding my vision and patience are both dwindling. I thought it would be a hoot to combine things. I am already staring at the ground looking for mushrooms and leek,why not enhance that with some relic/treasure hunting around the area. Not like it will hurt, so why not have one more reason to be outside. Then I got to reading thought gee, I work at a school, K-12, why not hang out after I am done, or at lunch so the kids can check it out and do a little detecting. The schools are between lakes, with beaches....... it kind of all came together, I need a new toy. So I sold off one of my rifles, a nice Savage .223 that I used for coyotes and decided to reinvest that money in another hobby. Unlike hunting, I cannot look forward to the naps, but I am still shaving a little density off my rapidly enlarging butt! ;D

Before having a chance to read the last three posts, I went and ordered from kellyco the Ace 250Pro with the extra coil. I know that some of the extras that come with it may or may not be necessary, but I thought it would be some good reading and information I could donate to the school when I was done so others could maybe have an interest sparked.

Thanks again guys and gals for all your input and help. I will only have about 1.783422 billion more questions to come!
 

dahut

Hero Member
Nov 6, 2004
809
54
Lee's Tavern Road
Detector(s) used
21 years behind a coil

Fisher F70
Bounty Hunter Lone Star
Tesoro Tiger Shark
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
The die is cast then, the stone cut. No going back. For what its worth, you did well with the ACE 250.
Im not enamored of the larger coil for most use, but it'll do. Consider the smaller "sniper" coil one day soon.

DO copy and print the tips I posted... they may be useful.

Good Luck and keep asking questions.
 

Ricardo_NY1

Bronze Member
Oct 24, 2006
1,330
3
Bronx, NY
Detector(s) used
Explorer XS/II & Garrett ACE 250
Did he choose the 250? If so, good job guys on getting Rev on the right track. Those Titan units are a rip off in my opinion, when they are the same thing as the Bounty Hunters on radio shack, except they charge way more money. What is the deal with that? I'm suprised companies would sell a unit for almost $200 that they know can be had for much less. I mean a Titan 1000 on Kellyco is like almost $200, and a Bounty Hunter (same thing) can be had on Ebay for $50 or on radio shack for like $129.
 

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RevSpongeBobSP

Guest
Yes I went with the Ace 250 Ric.

Usually, I tend to ask a lot of questions and then move towards the shiniest object I can find. You guys, and your information was very, let me say that again, VERY helpful, useful and enlightening not to mention appreciated. I only wish .....

1. I would have found this page sooner.

2. Would have ordered a week ago so I could use it already.

C. That I could make UPS move faster to get it here without spending a fortune ;)

Happy New Year all!!
 

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