Basic shaker table build

Jim in Idaho

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Jul 21, 2012
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I had a thought, to clear the air on the above subject, I should post a .pdf that helped shape my journey on shaker tables. People seem to think that tables need to be some, super-duper, complex, scientific device. They don't! So if you always wanted to know how to build a simple, portable table that can be used about anywhere, this is for you.
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

Silver Member
Jul 21, 2012
3,320
4,699
Blackfoot, Idaho
Detector(s) used
White's GM2, GM3, DFX, Coinmaster, TDI-SL, GM24K, Falcon MD20, old Garrett Masterhunter BFO
'Way Too Cool' dual 18 Watt UV light
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A flow meter like what you see on the supperpanner is a controllable / repeatable water flow rate. This will give you consistent results for each pan batch of the same type of material.
Sure it would. But you have a habit of suggesting things that most people can't afford. I'm trying like heck to come up with things that work, without breaking the bank. I doubt many miners like us are in the market for a Super whatever it is.
Jim
 

Assembler

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Sure it would. But you have a habit of suggesting things that most people can't afford. I'm trying like heck to come up with things that work, without breaking the bank. I doubt many miners like us are in the market for a Super whatever it is.
Jim
Valid point about the cost.
The ability to venture into the 'Super' depends on how resourceful you are. If you want to obtain the level plane of the 'Super realm', extra effort is needed to reach it.

Some times thinking out side a little can help with the process to get to the 'Super level' with out breaking the bank. This can get you reasonable or even good returns where others just give up.

There is nothing wrong with just getting things to the working point we have all been there.



After all is it not about the joy of the hunt that appeals most to a few no matter what the frustrations along the way?
 

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Assembler

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As a example of one person who applied some 'Super extra effort' then all of the others that where standing in the same line:
 

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N-Lionberger

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Oh my god they actually post a picture after all these years of crazy commentary and it’s an Elvis impersonator! Thank you Jim for making a separate thread for shaker table builds, I will post my progress here when I make some. I’m trying to get a bronze/aluminum foundry running again.
 

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Elvis always like's it 'All shook up uh-ha-o-ya' with the extra effort to shake those hips and legs.........:walk::wav:

Remember Elvis was not shown on some networks from the hips on down for some time there.......:whip2: ...........:laughing7:8-)
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

Silver Member
Jul 21, 2012
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Blackfoot, Idaho
Detector(s) used
White's GM2, GM3, DFX, Coinmaster, TDI-SL, GM24K, Falcon MD20, old Garrett Masterhunter BFO
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Thank you Jim for making a separate thread for shaker table builds, I will post my progress here when I make some. I’m trying to get a bronze/aluminum foundry running again.
Not a big deal... we kinda hijacked the older thread, anyway. I would really like to get into casting! I've thought of doing it several, times, but just never got around to it. I'm looking forward to seeing your posts on that.
Jim
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

Silver Member
Jul 21, 2012
3,320
4,699
Blackfoot, Idaho
Detector(s) used
White's GM2, GM3, DFX, Coinmaster, TDI-SL, GM24K, Falcon MD20, old Garrett Masterhunter BFO
'Way Too Cool' dual 18 Watt UV light
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
On the shaker table builds...I just started buying tooling to make the tops to sell. I'm going to make them with grooves, and start with the 24" units. I'm also going to start making the simple version of the drive units. Right now, as far as the table design, I'm thinking of copying Wilfley's Lab table layout.
Jim
 

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I thought he was out of the building????
If you take another look with the photograph above, 'Elvis has left all the near by buildings'......:headbang::icon_scratch:

Sorry........:cat:
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

Silver Member
Jul 21, 2012
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Blackfoot, Idaho
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White's GM2, GM3, DFX, Coinmaster, TDI-SL, GM24K, Falcon MD20, old Garrett Masterhunter BFO
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I got the drive unit for Caley's table finished. I figured I'd better test it before sending...I didn't want her telling me my parents were never married, because it didn't work....LOL. Here's a link:
Shaker Drive unit
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

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Jul 21, 2012
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Blackfoot, Idaho
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The theory is that for coarser gold, you want a longer stroke at slower speeds, and for finer gold you want a shorter stroke and faster speeds. Take a good look at the video I posted above, and notice how the coarser particles of gravel move up the table much faster using the 1" stroke length. At the 1/4 stroke length, the dirt (finer material) moves well ahead of the coarse gravel, but at the longer stroke the gravel keeps pace with the dirt...a great example of the old theory.
Jim
 

Assembler

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The theory is that for coarser gold, you want a longer stroke at slower speeds, and for finer gold you want a shorter stroke and faster speeds. Take a good look at the video I posted above, and notice how the coarser particles of gravel move up the table much faster using the 1" stroke length. At the 1/4 stroke length, the dirt (finer material) moves well ahead of the coarse gravel, but at the longer stroke the gravel keeps pace with the dirt...a great example of the old theory.
Jim
Think about different holes on the crankshaft for different stroke lengths to run the same materials at different strokes for different output results. Likely different angle table tops will also give different results.

The 'superpanner' has different holes for different results.
 

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Some research information about shaker tables and the factors thereof:

Variables on shaker table

– Angle of deck (steeper angle less weight to concentrate)

– Length of stroke (longer the stroke, the more the sideways motion and hence more weight to concentrate up to a maximum)

– Frequency of stroke (similar to length i.e., the more frequent the more sideways motion up to a maximum)

– Splitter positions (the position of the splitters on the concentrate launder will determine the weight take to concentrate

– Wash water (wash water is added along the top of the table to assist solids flow, maintain low solids density, preventing ‘‘dry spots’’, and washing slimes to tails

– Riffle height (a low riffle height will be better for fine feeds and vice versa)
 

Assembler

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Some other very important factors to consider / play with:
Stroke length (longer stroke increases concentrate weight, but also mechanical stress)

Hutch water (required to maintain uniform bed fluidisation in conjunction with the above, but will wash fine heavies to tails if excessive)

Ragging (the type of ragging, its SG, particle size, and shape will have an influence on the separation)

Able to recover coarse particles, thus reducing grinding requirements for hard rock ores, and excessive slimes generation.
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

Silver Member
Jul 21, 2012
3,320
4,699
Blackfoot, Idaho
Detector(s) used
White's GM2, GM3, DFX, Coinmaster, TDI-SL, GM24K, Falcon MD20, old Garrett Masterhunter BFO
'Way Too Cool' dual 18 Watt UV light
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
Think about different holes on the crankshaft for different stroke lengths to run the same materials at different strokes for different output results. Likely different angle table tops will also give different results.

Yeah...I already did that. No other way, on the simple drive, to vary the stroke length.
Jim
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

Silver Member
Jul 21, 2012
3,320
4,699
Blackfoot, Idaho
Detector(s) used
White's GM2, GM3, DFX, Coinmaster, TDI-SL, GM24K, Falcon MD20, old Garrett Masterhunter BFO
'Way Too Cool' dual 18 Watt UV light
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
What you have to do is either weld a plate to the outside of the pulley, or machine a complete pulley out of solid stock, with a closed end over the shaft. I think a plate, about 3/8" thick, and about an inch in diameter, welded to the pulley is the best way to go. I sorta boxed myself in on Caley's by welding the motor mount too close to the edge of the base plate...then I didn't have room to weld a plate on the pulley, but I finally made it work OK.
Jim
 

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Jim in Idaho

Jim in Idaho

Silver Member
Jul 21, 2012
3,320
4,699
Blackfoot, Idaho
Detector(s) used
White's GM2, GM3, DFX, Coinmaster, TDI-SL, GM24K, Falcon MD20, old Garrett Masterhunter BFO
'Way Too Cool' dual 18 Watt UV light
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
Since I still have a few items to make for Caley's setup, I thought I'd try her drive system on my old table, and convert the table from the slide mounts I used originally, to a flex plate system. What I learned, for these smallish tables in the 24-30" range, is using 20 gauge steel is to stiff. The drive would move it OK, but the liveliness of the table was diminished, and the material moved poorly. I had also changed the motion direction to in-line, which meant at a 10 degree angle to the riffles. That is an additional hurdle the drive has to overcome, as the material is being moved up the slope of the table, as well as lengthwise. I think the angled riffles are a good deal for fine gold, ( the material stays on the surface, being exposed to the wash water for a longer period) but at the expense of a probably slower feedrate, but the table needs to move with some liveliness. I'm just posting all this for the benefit of people who are interested in making their own table. I'm going to make a new set of flex supports out of 24 gauge and try it again. I like the flex supports....the table is super quiet while running. (Chris say she doesn't understand why I care, I can't hear anything anyway). I also still intend to make the ABS decks available, but have too many "irons in the fire" right now, and won't get to that for at least a couple of weeks.
Jim
 

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