Cleaning Old Rusty Finds

[retire05]

I found something today that was buried 12"-15". I was going to forget about it, but at 10" I started digging up half burned wood chips so it intrigued me. I have to figure out how to shrink the file size of my camera picture before I can post it. What I want to know, since it is in pretty bad shape, what the best way to clean it without ruining it. At this stage I believe it to be a top for some type of lantern or something, but there is so much gunk on it I can't tell. It is 4.5" square and 3" tall with a fairly hollow bottom and a bulbous protrusion in the middle of what I think is the top. I want to clean it up to see if it is worth keeping, giving away, or throwing away. I'll post it when I figure how to shrink the file size.
Thanks and HH

Brad

 

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[testing123]

I've used Apple Cider Vinegar to soak it in. It works, but the process can take several weeks. You might have some luck with electrolysis, but more seasoned folk can add more input on that because I've never tried it.

 

[relicmeister]

Apple cider vinegar easiest, wear rubber gloves and use a brush or coarse scotchbrite to remove what loosens up as often as possible will shorten the process.

 

[retire05]

Thanks for the advice. I will pick up some vinegar tomorrow. Got a huge honey do list for tomorrow, but Sunday is expected to be 60 and I'm free to go digging!!!

 

[UncoveringHistory]

Remember that as soon as an IRON object hits open air , after lying underground in equilibrium for a long time, it will oxidize rapidly and often scale away in no time. Key is mechanically removing loose remains with a scraper and brush and halting the progression of rust immediately. If your find is a common relic , you can heat it in an a toaster oven, and when it has cooled enough to touch, submerge it in a sealer. Some use hot wax. I use GARDZ, a plasticizer by Zinsser, sold in paint stores. After it has absorbed the sealer to saturation, drain and blot any excess to restore a reasonable finish that resembles the original sheen. Dry rapidly in a warm area (on top of a water heater, radiator).
If you are working with brass, you need not worry if you've dried it. On relics with mixed metal or mixed wood content, GARDZ can be applied with a paint brush to the porous area until saturated. If the item is collectable or valuable, dry it good and do not do more than a surface cleaning to preserve it's patina of antiquity.

 

[retire05]

Remember that as soon as an IRON object hits open air , after lying underground in equilibrium for a long time, it will oxidize rapidly and often scale away in no time. Key is mechanically removing loose remains with a scraper and brush and halting the progression of rust immediately. If your find is a common relic , you can heat it in an a toaster oven, and when it has cooled enough to touch, submerge it in a sealer. Some use hot wax. I use GARDZ, a plasticizer by Zinsser, sold in paint stores. After it has absorbed the sealer to saturation, drain and blot any excess to restore a reasonable finish that resembles the original sheen. Dry rapidly in a warm area (on top of a water heater, radiator).
If you are working with brass, you need not worry if you've dried it. On relics with mixed metal or mixed wood content, GARDZ can be applied with a paint brush to the porous area until saturated. If the item is collectable or valuable, dry it good and do not do more than a surface cleaning to preserve it's patina of antiquity.

Wow - thanks for all that information. I will try your advice and let everyone know how it works.... Brad