Fisher F-75 Circuits

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's

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SaginawIan

Hero Member
Jun 1, 2006
679
14
Detroit, Michigan
Detector(s) used
Fisher F75, Tesoro Tejon, Tesoro Mojave.
Wow! Can't believe you took it apart :o Hope you can put that bad boy back together! Are you working on that EMI shield? Thanks for posting this, I've always been curious how these looked inside.

good luck, Ian
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
Ian, Thanks for replying! All I need to do now is to reassemble the display and wire it up, then I'll see if the shielding worked or not. Heh! Heh! Now we know what lies inside the mysterious black box!! Thanks for wishing me well!! Did you happen to notice the female connector on the right hand side of the lower picture? Just under the arch in the wire with the tape on it. Must be an interface to program the CPU located just above it. Thanks again for replying, I was beginning to think no one cared enough to post a response!!! Good luck and great hunting, Ian!!! Regards, Richard.
 

SaginawIan

Hero Member
Jun 1, 2006
679
14
Detroit, Michigan
Detector(s) used
Fisher F75, Tesoro Tejon, Tesoro Mojave.
kind of interesting to see the guts of a powerful detector. Makes me wonder what makes one more powerful than another? Is it the quality of materials? Is it the way its programed? Ill bet that the wore going to the CPU could be used for software upgrades in the future? I saw a post about that on another board but can't rember where. Well, Richard you sure are one brave guy ripping that apart but if you improve the Emi problem many will follow your lead. Ian
 

SaginawIan

Hero Member
Jun 1, 2006
679
14
Detroit, Michigan
Detector(s) used
Fisher F75, Tesoro Tejon, Tesoro Mojave.
richard I do have a question. How hard do you think it would be to put a more sturdy trigger on the f75. Are there lots of wires to and from it? Post as many pics as u can this is very interesting. Ian
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
Ian, Thanks for the confidence! :thumbsup: I'm sure the '75 will be better than before, but only trial after trial will tell. I totally agree with you, the connector must be for future software downloads! As for what makes one more powerful, I suppose a good analogy would be, say, a Pentium 2 CPU from the late '90's, and the new quad-core CPU in use today. There are multiples squared of reasons one detector is more powerful, or better discriminating, but the hardware definitely plays a large part. However, the software must be programmed to make the best and most efficient use of that hardware! Like having a 500 horsepower car, you must press the accelerator to the floor to get the most out of it, or, you won't climb that hill!! LOL!! A person can take a mediocre detector and increase performance by doing a number of things to it. One being, take all the + or - 25% resistors out and replace them with + or - 1% resistors, more expensive, but if one cheap 25% one is 25% high, and another 25% one is 25% low, then there is a variance of 50% tolerance, and that is a lot of OHMS. Also, clock speed of the CPU and also the oscillators must be matched for best performance. And so on!! Well, enough of that! As for the switch trigger, no problem as far as the wires go, there are only three, the middle wire for search mode, and one each for GroundGrab and pinpoint. And speaking of the switch trigger, when I disassembled mine, the switch crumbled before the attachment nut came loose!! Modifying the area where the switch sits, relative to the control panel, isn't going to be much fun, if you intend to keep the stock pole assembly. If, however, you go with a F-70 style pole, then you may use a really sturdy switch, such as the Tejon uses! If you notice the small plug at about the one o"clock position on the lower picture, those are the switch wires, although the view shows what appears to be two wires, there are actually three. My net photogs will never win any awards, but I may try to post a few more, if they come out alright!! Thanks for showing interest, Ian! Perhaps we will learn something from this little adventure!! Great hunting and good luck, Ian!! Regards, Richard.
 

Lowbatts

Gold Member
Jul 1, 2003
6,573
67
Elgin
Detector(s) used
Fishers 1235X-8" CZ-20/21-8" F-70-11"DD GC1023
Hey Skypilot, is theroom available for a sturdy rocker switch in the place of that toggle? I have always thought that toggle switch is in a vulnerable position.
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
Lowbatts, Thanks for replying! I couldn't find a sturdier switch that would fit into the space allotted, because inside the housing, the puny little rocker switch from the factory has a set of rails that it sits between to keep it in place. Even if one cut down the rails, the room gained would be negligible, as the housing is nearly funnel shaped at that point, and a bigger, (i.e. sturdier), just wont fit. I redesigned my own '75, so now the switch is mounted on the pole, similar to a Tesoro Tejon, and is much bigger now. Good luck and great hunting, Lowbatts!!! And thanks for the questions! Regards, Richard.
 

xdanthemanx

Sr. Member
Oct 25, 2007
361
56
clarkston michigan
Detector(s) used
E-trac & XLT
ok, i have to ask what are you doing specifically to shield? I dont have one of these machines but i'm in the market for one, ive been waiting for a good deal to come by.
where are you guys getting the switches? radio shack sucks ass for a lot fo this stuff so i order electronics stuff from places like galco or an industrial electronics company.

so heres the question, where is the machine picking up the efi, actually at the board or in the 3 feet of wire going to the coil??? in my experience a lot of rf issues start in the long wires.
did you look into what kind of wire they used to make that run?? if its like anything else in life these days they coulda used cheaper wire and hence the rf issue.....

maybe Ian will let me take a look see inside his machine, also there might be an alternative way to mount a better switch. maybe like a jet fighter control a pushbutton on thumb and a trigger also for the other

DTM
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
DTM, Thanks for replying! I am making a shield, as it stands, there is no physical shield at all. The case is covered with spray on graphite on the inside, and has the shield wire attached to it with a piece of tape. Not only is graphite the cheapest EMI barrier, it is also the least effective. That said, mine is made of aluminium tape, multi layered. Now, the ideal shield would be platinum, or gold, or silver, or copper, then aluminum, and lastly graphite. I really couldn't go with copper, because of the shape of the housing, and needlees to say, the other material is not cost efficient. The tape could be cut and fairly easily manipulated into tight spots that would require an awesome amount of time if one were to use copper plate. The switch I bought, came from an auto parts store, but took heavy modification of the handle, so is not really practical when Tejon switches are readily available. By the way, you can purchase one of the stock switches AT Radio Shack, but agreed, they stink. And, my switch IS mounted on the handle, just forward of the grip and below the housing. Picture: An F-70 style set up with a switch for Ground Grab and pinpoint just in front of you trigger finger. You bring up a great point about the coil wire, and I'm very glad you mentioned it! Yes, just as you suspected, the wire is JUNK! However, without cutting apart the coil, I suppose I'll deal with it. It does have a Mylar shielding, but I have added additional protection on top of it! I, myself, picked up a semi- round rocker switch to be thumb operated, but having tried it, the machine didn't feel like I was holding it securely, and also the spot that it pretty much has to be mounted, is the absolute worst place concerning pole strength, and I feel would not be at all reliable. Great questions, thanks again so much for replying, Dan!!! Hope I explained it well enough. Good luck and great hunting, Regards, Richard. P.S. To take the unit apart, the handle must first be unscrewed from the pole and the foam must be removed to access the remaining screws, the wire running from front to rear must be detached, and finally, to take the electronics out, the knobbed switch on the front has to be removed, and to do that, one must remove the gold and black faceplate to remove the switch nut. It is foil, so you may want to take care!!
 

xdanthemanx

Sr. Member
Oct 25, 2007
361
56
clarkston michigan
Detector(s) used
E-trac & XLT
well as soon i get a hold of one of these im sure ill dig into it a bit more, i like the machine and it definately performs good, i also have an complete machine shop in my garage so i can make or modify just about anything. are you using the aluminum tape from the hardware store??? just wondering because it will come unpeeled from the inside of the case if it gets cold.. i have a nice 50 yard roll of the good stuff with a 3m backing as you probably know 3m self adhesives do not come off without chemicals. especially since your sticking it to a graphite coating.

how bout a picture of what you did with the switch

dan
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
Dan, Thanks for the tip! You are very right, 3M is the only brand to use! It must be great to have all those machines in your garage! I can only dream about the things I'd make if I had all The cool things you have!! I'll try to take a picture of the switch assembly on mine, but bear in mind please, I had to do so much to the pole, if I were to do it over again, I'd simply buy a Tejon switch!! Thanks for replying, and the great tip! Great hunting and good luck!!! Regards, Richard.
 

gmanlight

Hero Member
Jun 17, 2007
823
66
MA NH seacoast
Detector(s) used
what ever works
Richard if the shield works and we can run the F 75 max all the time you

might have a new job upgrading all of them good luck Mike G
 

rjw4law

Bronze Member
Apr 25, 2007
1,588
180
Missouri
Detector(s) used
AT Garrett Max/ Garrett ATX/ Deus XP
Primary Interest:
Relic Hunting
You're more adventurism than me...I would end up selling mine for scrap metal, if i took it apart...can't wait for the results.
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
Mike, Thanks for replying! I appreciate the kind words and well wishes very much! I hope my mods work well, but would more than likely just let everyone know how it worked, so they could do it themselves. You know, kind of post a "How To", for anyone interested. I have a few ideas about how to improve on my latest version, (#8), so it will be easier and better then. It would be cool, however, to convert the '75 to the several different configurations I've tried already, and to "customize" them for folks!! Again, many thanks!! Great hunting and good luck!! Regards, Richard.
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
RJW4LAW, Thanks for the reply!! Shoot, once you took that baby apart, you could put it together blindfolded! I was a really curious child, and when Mom or Dad bought a cool toy for me, I'd watch it work for a while, then sneak off to the garage and straight to Dad's tools!! Man, I took many a well earned beating for that, sometimes! Then, once, when I was about 9, I hotwired Dad's '59 Dodge and took it for a spin! I never was caught, but when I was unhooking my wires, I managed to burn up the wiring harness on that monster! Boy, Dad was P.O.'d, he just KNEW I had something to do with it, but I wouldn't admit it for fear of my life!! LOL!! So began my experimentation with all things that work! I sort of dive in, try what I think will work, and sometimes it does!! Thanks for the kind words!! I will definitely let you know how this comes out!! Good luck and great hunting!!! Regards, Richard.
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
Ian, Great to hear from you! The CZ case isn't quite tall enough for the display and electronic board of the '75. Great idea, though!! That sucker would be built like a tank sure enough, then!! I was posting another reply when I received yours, but I will say I have some ideas for a different setup altogether for the '75, but have to try it out to see if it is feasible!! Thanks for asking!! I'll keep you all posted! Regards, Richard.
 

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Sky Pilot

Sky Pilot

Bronze Member
Dec 2, 2007
1,478
12
Tellico Plains, Tennessee
Detector(s) used
Several Fisher, Tesoro, White's and Garrett's
Jim, Thanks so much for the inquiry!! No, not much to report at this time, but Dad finally was able to come home this week, so maybe I'll have some time to finish the experiment!! By the way, great observations in your last post!! And you are spot on concerning the sources of EMI, and hopefully I will have addressed them all when I am finished, but will post the bad with the good!! Again, many thanks!! Great hunting and good luck!! Regards, Richard.
 

Born2Dtect

Bronze Member
Jun 11, 2004
1,683
68
Hurlock, Maryland
Detector(s) used
XP Deus, Excalibur II
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Look for parts at Digikey, Mouser, or Newark. All can be seen online. I do not envy you at all skypilot02 a shielding problem can be a bear. There are regulations on the frequencies and power output from electronic devices, but shielding against unwanted input is left to the manufacturer. Kind of like a "it,s your problem not mine" exchange.

I would not recommend cutting, unsoldering and removing any thing from a detector unless necessary to repair it. Most transmitting and receiving equipment (like metal detectors) are connected to various test equipment during the manufacturing process and calibrated, setup or tweaked for maximum efficiency. Anytime you replace a component you can induce other problems if not carefull. FYI, the cardboard background in the photo is not static proof, a lot of the components on your circuit board are.

Ed D.
 

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