silver queen
Tenderfoot
- Sep 22, 2007
- 7
- 0
i just traded my cibola for a GTP 1350 and could use some tips. thanks, Linda
GTP 1350
- Thread starter silver queen
- Start date
John-Edmonton
Silver Member
- Mar 21, 2005
- 4,400
- 3,953
- Detector(s) used
- Garrett- Master Hunter CX,Infinium, 1350, 2500, ACE 150-water converted 250, GTA 500,1500 Scorpion, AT Pro
Hi Linda...I have used that machine and had a lot of fun AND got a lot of targets using it too. It's hard to give any tips right off the bat, but I will say read the manual slowly, and read it again. Then got play with the machine...and read the manual again.
Not only does this machine offer the ability to size targets, and very quickly at that, but it also allows you to hunt and also size an object using the audio too. The machine can be programmed to give a short audio sound for coin sized objects, a longer audio sound for bigger sizes and yet a longer audio sound for large object. So....you can easily pick out coin sized targets in the dark (night hunts) or just by hunting and daydreaming at the same time.
Now....if there is one thing that I so want you to remember, remember this...........
"THE PROFILING IS TURNED ON AND OFF BY PUSHING AND RELEASING THE PINPOINT BUTTON. WHEN YOU ARE HUNTING FOR TARGETS, HAVE THE PFOFILING TURNED OFF. WHEN YOU FIND A TARGET, PUSH AND HOLD THE PINPOINT-BUTTON AND START SWINGING THAT COIL OVER THE TARGET EACH SIDE ABOUT 6 INCHES UNTIL YOU GET THE A - B OR C TARGET ID. THEN, HIT THE PINPOINT BUTTON MOMENTARILY TO TURN THE PROFING FEATURE OFF. IF YOU HUNT WITH THE PROFILING FEATURE TURNED ON, YOU WILL GET SUCH A VARIETY OF SIGNALS COMING THROUGH THOSE HEADSETS THAT IT WILL MAKE YOU SCREAM."
And, do hunt in tones and do use some discrimination if needed. Remember, that with Garrett metal detectors, you don't lose depth by increasing the discrimination. All you are doing is removing the audio for those targets. The cursor will still appear under the icon.
Below are the results I got using ONLY the GTP 1350 for one complete year.
Not only does this machine offer the ability to size targets, and very quickly at that, but it also allows you to hunt and also size an object using the audio too. The machine can be programmed to give a short audio sound for coin sized objects, a longer audio sound for bigger sizes and yet a longer audio sound for large object. So....you can easily pick out coin sized targets in the dark (night hunts) or just by hunting and daydreaming at the same time.
Now....if there is one thing that I so want you to remember, remember this...........
"THE PROFILING IS TURNED ON AND OFF BY PUSHING AND RELEASING THE PINPOINT BUTTON. WHEN YOU ARE HUNTING FOR TARGETS, HAVE THE PFOFILING TURNED OFF. WHEN YOU FIND A TARGET, PUSH AND HOLD THE PINPOINT-BUTTON AND START SWINGING THAT COIL OVER THE TARGET EACH SIDE ABOUT 6 INCHES UNTIL YOU GET THE A - B OR C TARGET ID. THEN, HIT THE PINPOINT BUTTON MOMENTARILY TO TURN THE PROFING FEATURE OFF. IF YOU HUNT WITH THE PROFILING FEATURE TURNED ON, YOU WILL GET SUCH A VARIETY OF SIGNALS COMING THROUGH THOSE HEADSETS THAT IT WILL MAKE YOU SCREAM."
And, do hunt in tones and do use some discrimination if needed. Remember, that with Garrett metal detectors, you don't lose depth by increasing the discrimination. All you are doing is removing the audio for those targets. The cursor will still appear under the icon.
Below are the results I got using ONLY the GTP 1350 for one complete year.
Attachments
Wetgreenie
Hero Member
Nice finds and good info
dahut
Hero Member
- Nov 6, 2004
- 809
- 54
- Detector(s) used
-
21 years behind a coil
Fisher F70
Bounty Hunter Lone Star
Tesoro Tiger Shark
- Primary Interest:
- All Treasure Hunting
John knows his stuff, thats for sure.
Heres the 1350 dope I came up with. Some is mine some is fom others. Good hunting... you have a great instrument. Here are a few more things for you to chew on:
Read the booklet that comes with the detector - A LOT. Ive read and re-read it. For instance, I never really caught on to the distinct sound that is heard when you engage the Profiling feature...that is until I found mention of it in the booklet.
To me, this is a problem that Garret could rectify - the information is sketchy, for a detector that really has so much going on. For a newbie, their direction is to guide you to learn through using. But there is much they could offer in the way of "tips" that would help.
From the DaHut Archives:
"(EDITED) From Andreas, NM
Here are my tips:
1. Tape the coil cable straight up the lower rod.
2. Set the threshold to the point where you can barely hear it.
3. After number 2, run sensitivity at 5-7.
If the detector is not stable back down a notch, or until it becomes so.
4. Run it in jewelry mode for max depth.
If you run it in coin mode, you loose some depth.
5. Get the 4.5 inch coil for it. That coil will give you great target separation and ID around old houses and in trash.
{{ It iwill also allow you to run near max gain (SENS).}}
6. Make sure you always have spare battery holder.That is the only weakness of the Garrett. {{ When mine developed a crack I called (or emailed) Garrett and talked to Mary Penson. They sent two more ,for free.}}
7.If the ID jumps from iron to coin and vice versa...it's junk.
If it jumps around within the coin range, it's a deep coin most of the time.
The Garrett GTP 1350 is the same model like the GTAx 1250 but the 1350 has profiling (sizing)... you can tell by the length of the tone what size the target is.
{{ This is something you can learn by turning off all tone ID and Profiling, Then the detector will signal "long" over shallow or large targets and it will signal "short" over smaller/deeper targets. Do this for several hours and it becomes second nature. Again, it's mentioned in the booklet, but isnt really developed as a user tool }}.
In trash you can't rely on it alone (Profiling) because the coil sees too many targets at once and the reading is off.
The GTP 1350 can profile size with ALL Garrett coils, unlike the GTIs.
Is the Garrett deep
Yes if you follow my tips.
It is as deep as every other top of the line detector out there. I compared it to the Whites MXT and can say the Garrett hits better on silver and copper, but the MXT is a little hotter on nickels.The Garrett runs more quiet.
The Garrett is well balanced and fun to use. You don't have to read the manual every time you use it, because it's that easy. There are no outside controls you could accidently bump or turn.
Target ID is right on if you use the right coil for the area you hunt in. Nickel can come in a little higher some time, so accept one more notch up.
I liked the 1250 better, because I don't fancy the profiling. Performance is the same.
HH,
Andy
And another pile of "user tips", from yours truly:
Posted By: DaHut
Date: Wednesday, 14 December 2005, at 9:29 a.m.
In Response To: Hoping to pickup my GTA 1350 tomorrow.
A great machine, one you can and should practice a lot with. The Garretts are overlooked a lot by people as being toylike, goofy and ineffective - I know, I used to say those things myself. But, that was my undoing; the more I use mine (1350), the more capable I find it to be.
- NUMERO UNO. It's very sensitive and running your SENS too high will kill you...especially in trashy sites. Always start low (4-5) and work your way up till the falsing begins, then back down a notch or two.
As Bill Revis says, "The 1350 is sensitivity driven."
He also says, "...the SENS control is NOT a depth control." He's right...it is a gain control for the receive circuits. Cranking it up has a combined effect: increasing the gain AND sending the circuits into instability, especially in the presence of trash/minerlization/multiple targets.
- Strap the cable to the lower rod so it doesnt flop around, as it'll pick up the wires in the cable if your SENS is set high. But don't tie it down rock solid - give it a little strain relief. I use Velcro straps.
- In clean sites, you can crank er 'up a bit. 8-10 isnt too high in low trash, mildly mineralized soils. The depth is there.
- Deep/small targets result in SHORT DURATION beeps. NOT "softer" sounding... shorter. The amplitude of the signal is the same, but the duartion changes. This one fact gave me fits with my first Garrett, the 1250.
- Don't be afraid to swing it a little faster than recommended. It gets a bit deeper when you do and still picks up the good signals, especially where they are shallow.
But remember, and this is a point Bill Revis makes time and again, steady and thorough will always win over fast - slow down a bit once you've found a "hot spot" and then work to isolate the signals.
- Test the trash separation at home on the floor, in your yard etc, so you have an idea of how things work in the real world. This factor can make or break you. When I place a dime at 2-3" from a nail, I get a clean "dime" signal with the stock coil. That's good separation. You should learn what yours does, too.
- Work to pinpoint without the button, what used to be called "X'ing," and what I like to call "MindsEye Pinpointing." The 1350 lends itself to this, it's easy to learn and saves time. This leads us to profiling...
- Understand that the profiling feature comes on AFTER pinpointing for a reason... it's part of a planned sequence of operation.
{{ Some folks complain about the Profiling, but I LIKE it. To be fair, I didn't at first. But once I decided to let it teach me how it should best be used, I got a new appreciation for it. Here's the sequence I follow, which I call the "Edmonton Profiling Double Tap," from John, the above poster.:
A. After "X" pinpointing, press pinpoint once (or simply release the PP after you have manually pinpointed.)
B. The Profiling will auto-engage and then you allow it work, letting the data sink in...
C. Turn off Profiling by pressing the PP button once more .
Simple sequence, very logical - easy to get used to. }}
** The "Edmonton Profiling Double Tap" is just deliberately turning on the Profiling and then, just as deliberately, turning it back off as part of your hunt sequence...
Life gets less stressful when you accept these things.
- Keep your batteries warm.
- Use headphones.
- Get both the dust and coil covers.
- Make the "Rubber Bumper PinPoint Mod". Get a 3/8-1/2" stick on silicone rubber bumper at the hardware store and stick it on to the PP button. This really makes pinpointing easier and is a must do.
- Finally, go back and read NUMERO UNO again.
Welcome aboard,
David
Heres the 1350 dope I came up with. Some is mine some is fom others. Good hunting... you have a great instrument. Here are a few more things for you to chew on:
Read the booklet that comes with the detector - A LOT. Ive read and re-read it. For instance, I never really caught on to the distinct sound that is heard when you engage the Profiling feature...that is until I found mention of it in the booklet.
To me, this is a problem that Garret could rectify - the information is sketchy, for a detector that really has so much going on. For a newbie, their direction is to guide you to learn through using. But there is much they could offer in the way of "tips" that would help.
From the DaHut Archives:
"(EDITED) From Andreas, NM
Here are my tips:
1. Tape the coil cable straight up the lower rod.
2. Set the threshold to the point where you can barely hear it.
3. After number 2, run sensitivity at 5-7.
If the detector is not stable back down a notch, or until it becomes so.
4. Run it in jewelry mode for max depth.
If you run it in coin mode, you loose some depth.
5. Get the 4.5 inch coil for it. That coil will give you great target separation and ID around old houses and in trash.
{{ It iwill also allow you to run near max gain (SENS).}}
6. Make sure you always have spare battery holder.That is the only weakness of the Garrett. {{ When mine developed a crack I called (or emailed) Garrett and talked to Mary Penson. They sent two more ,for free.}}
7.If the ID jumps from iron to coin and vice versa...it's junk.
If it jumps around within the coin range, it's a deep coin most of the time.
The Garrett GTP 1350 is the same model like the GTAx 1250 but the 1350 has profiling (sizing)... you can tell by the length of the tone what size the target is.
{{ This is something you can learn by turning off all tone ID and Profiling, Then the detector will signal "long" over shallow or large targets and it will signal "short" over smaller/deeper targets. Do this for several hours and it becomes second nature. Again, it's mentioned in the booklet, but isnt really developed as a user tool }}.
In trash you can't rely on it alone (Profiling) because the coil sees too many targets at once and the reading is off.
The GTP 1350 can profile size with ALL Garrett coils, unlike the GTIs.
Is the Garrett deep
Yes if you follow my tips.It is as deep as every other top of the line detector out there. I compared it to the Whites MXT and can say the Garrett hits better on silver and copper, but the MXT is a little hotter on nickels.The Garrett runs more quiet.
The Garrett is well balanced and fun to use. You don't have to read the manual every time you use it, because it's that easy. There are no outside controls you could accidently bump or turn.
Target ID is right on if you use the right coil for the area you hunt in. Nickel can come in a little higher some time, so accept one more notch up.
I liked the 1250 better, because I don't fancy the profiling. Performance is the same.
HH,
Andy
And another pile of "user tips", from yours truly:
Posted By: DaHut
Date: Wednesday, 14 December 2005, at 9:29 a.m.
In Response To: Hoping to pickup my GTA 1350 tomorrow.
A great machine, one you can and should practice a lot with. The Garretts are overlooked a lot by people as being toylike, goofy and ineffective - I know, I used to say those things myself. But, that was my undoing; the more I use mine (1350), the more capable I find it to be.
- NUMERO UNO. It's very sensitive and running your SENS too high will kill you...especially in trashy sites. Always start low (4-5) and work your way up till the falsing begins, then back down a notch or two.
As Bill Revis says, "The 1350 is sensitivity driven."
He also says, "...the SENS control is NOT a depth control." He's right...it is a gain control for the receive circuits. Cranking it up has a combined effect: increasing the gain AND sending the circuits into instability, especially in the presence of trash/minerlization/multiple targets.
- Strap the cable to the lower rod so it doesnt flop around, as it'll pick up the wires in the cable if your SENS is set high. But don't tie it down rock solid - give it a little strain relief. I use Velcro straps.
- In clean sites, you can crank er 'up a bit. 8-10 isnt too high in low trash, mildly mineralized soils. The depth is there.
- Deep/small targets result in SHORT DURATION beeps. NOT "softer" sounding... shorter. The amplitude of the signal is the same, but the duartion changes. This one fact gave me fits with my first Garrett, the 1250.
- Don't be afraid to swing it a little faster than recommended. It gets a bit deeper when you do and still picks up the good signals, especially where they are shallow.
But remember, and this is a point Bill Revis makes time and again, steady and thorough will always win over fast - slow down a bit once you've found a "hot spot" and then work to isolate the signals.
- Test the trash separation at home on the floor, in your yard etc, so you have an idea of how things work in the real world. This factor can make or break you. When I place a dime at 2-3" from a nail, I get a clean "dime" signal with the stock coil. That's good separation. You should learn what yours does, too.
- Work to pinpoint without the button, what used to be called "X'ing," and what I like to call "MindsEye Pinpointing." The 1350 lends itself to this, it's easy to learn and saves time. This leads us to profiling...
- Understand that the profiling feature comes on AFTER pinpointing for a reason... it's part of a planned sequence of operation.
{{ Some folks complain about the Profiling, but I LIKE it. To be fair, I didn't at first. But once I decided to let it teach me how it should best be used, I got a new appreciation for it. Here's the sequence I follow, which I call the "Edmonton Profiling Double Tap," from John, the above poster.:
A. After "X" pinpointing, press pinpoint once (or simply release the PP after you have manually pinpointed.)
B. The Profiling will auto-engage and then you allow it work, letting the data sink in...
C. Turn off Profiling by pressing the PP button once more .
Simple sequence, very logical - easy to get used to. }}
** The "Edmonton Profiling Double Tap" is just deliberately turning on the Profiling and then, just as deliberately, turning it back off as part of your hunt sequence...
Life gets less stressful when you accept these things.
- Keep your batteries warm.
- Use headphones.
- Get both the dust and coil covers.
- Make the "Rubber Bumper PinPoint Mod". Get a 3/8-1/2" stick on silicone rubber bumper at the hardware store and stick it on to the PP button. This really makes pinpointing easier and is a must do.
- Finally, go back and read NUMERO UNO again.
Welcome aboard,
David
