How to Repair Coil Wire?

[Bigcypresshunter]

Someone donated an older used DetectorPro to me. I need to use this coil in the surf. Does anyone know how I can waterproof this coil wire?

 

Amazon Forum Fav 👍

Minelab PRO-FIND 35 Waterproof Pinpointer Metal Detector for Experts with Tone ID & Adjustable Sensitivity - Grab it through Amazon!

[Woodland Detectors]

Dale,

Try this......Trust me it works....Looks shady, but it does the trick buddy, First apply "rubber electric tape to the wire above the collar (not vinyl) then put the adhesive (goop) over the top, and don't touch it till it dries. For the collar, just put the goop on the fray and screw the collar down. You wont be able to get it back out, but it's free, and it will fix the problem..

As long as it still works...Does it?

I suppose you could cut the excess plastic tubing off and use shrink tube too.

Other than that, an "experienced" electrician could cut the wire close, and re solder it together higher on the cable.

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Yes it supposed to work. I think the prior owner may not have washed the salt off and so it rotted. I tasted some salt on the wire. He told me it worked in the Virgin Islands but he didnt want it anymore because he cant dive with it.

I think its too close to the coil to cut it and resolder. I was thinking of using heat shrink tubing. Im going to put this old coil on my newer headset. Ill buy the goop too. Thanks. I hope it works. The wire shielding looks good.

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

Here are pictures from a headset mod I did on one of my Excals... The same mod would work for you on your cable....The Plasti-dip is the secret....It is a rubber coating, it has worked great on the cable mods on my excals

I would cut the bad insulation off, cover the cable with liquid tape and let it dry. I would then cut two pieces of heat shrink one about 1.5 inches longer than the other slide the short one on the cable first followed by the second one, insert something to use as a strength member at the bad point, I have used a piece of tiewrap and insulation off a heavy gage extension cord, but anything nonmetallic that is stiff would work.

You covered the bad spot with heat shrink tubing heat it and seal it with liquid tape, when it dries slide the 2nd heat shrink over the repair so that the first piece is in the center of the second longer piece, heat it then cover it with liquid tape, then spray it with plasti-dip, I would put on at least 4-5 coats. I would tiewrap the cable to the shaft so it cant pull on the connection...I would make sure the heat shrink is long enough that the heat shring coveres at least half the connection plug on the coil...

Use the Plasti-Dip to ensure it is waterproofed.…… I have done 3 mods so far and none have leaked yet and they have been in the water a lot....


I Covered The Splice With Insulation Cut Off An Old Piece of Extension Cable, Then Added 2 Layers Of Heat Shrink With Strength Members Between the 2 Layers

Splice After The Final Coat Of Plasti-Dip......(Total Of 5 Spray On Coats)

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

I bought a good package of assorted sizes of heat shrink tubes at Radio Shack. I was wondering about the brush on or plasti dip. Does the liquid tape/plasti dip hold up well? I saw it at Home Depot.

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

I bought a good package of assorted sizes of heat shrink tubes at Radio Shack. I was wondering about the brush on or plasti dip. Does the liquid tape/plasti dip hold up well? I saw it at Home Depot.

I used the brush on liquid tape first over the heat shrink after it was heated, then after both pieces of heat shrink was on and covered with liquid tape, I sprayed the cable with liquid plasti-dip...... I have it on my main excal and it has held up very well. The nice thing about the spray is it gives it a smooth finish and it is easy to see if it starts to deterorate. You can spay as many coats as you want, or add a couple coats each season.... Mine has held up perfectly for over a year so far with no sign of wear....

You could add a third heat shrink step if you wish.... Materials for the entire repair is under $15....

 

[Woodland Detectors]

Here are pictures from a headset mod I did on one of my Excals... The same mod would work for you on your cable....The Plasti-dip is the secret....It is a rubber coating, it has worked great on the cable mods on my excals

I would cut the bad insulation off, cover the cable with liquid tape and let it dry. I would then cut two pieces of heat shrink one about 1.5 inches longer than the other slide the short one on the cable first followed by the second one, insert something to use as a strength member at the bad point, I have used a piece of tiewrap and insulation off a heavy gage extension cord, but anything nonmetallic that is stiff would work.

You covered the bad spot with heat shrink tubing heat it and seal it with liquid tape, when it dries slide the 2nd heat shrink over the repair so that the first piece is in the center of the second longer piece, heat it then cover it with liquid tape, then spray it with plasti-dip, I would put on at least 4-5 coats. I would tiewrap the cable to the shaft so it cant pull on the connection...I would make sure the heat shrink is long enough that the heat shring coveres at least half the connection plug on the coil...

Use the Plasti-Dip to ensure it is waterproofed.…… I have done 3 mods so far and none have leaked yet and they have been in the water a lot....


I Covered The Splice With Insulation Cut Off An Old Piece of Extension Cable, Then Added 2 Layers Of Heat Shrink With Strength Members Between the 2 Layers

Splice After The Final Coat Of Plasti-Dip......(Total Of 5 Spray On Coats)

Nice!

 

[Johnny Bliss]

Well it seems you really need a heat shrink sleeve for that. This might be troublesome for you if you don't fix it soon. And by the way do you have an idea where to buy this sleeve stuff? If not, try this store that sells heat shrinks online. http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/heatshrink.php. They offer quality tested and affordable different kinds of cable protection. Goodluck buddy.

 

[Frankn]

I used the Plastic Dip to fix a friends cable last season. It is holding up well. I used the liquid dip thinned with a brush. I don't think the spray was out yet. I applied about 4 coats. Frank

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

The heat shrink and Plasti Dip worked well but Im afraid the cable is too rotten in too many places to repair. Its a shame. I dont know if I will be able to splice a new cable on.

I think the best solution for me would be to buy a new coil but I would be upset if it doesnt work.

Thanks all for the help.

 

[stevemc]

Hook up the coil and see if it works. If it works, then use it, after making a new jacket. Take off all the broken cable jacket. Maybe wash it-without getting any water inside coil, to get off all saltwater. Then do as Treasure Hunter said, but coat the whole wire set-up. There appears to be an inner jacket, leave that alone, it is holding it all together, it is not shielding, I dont think. Many metal detectors have lousy coil cables, and lousy jackets and many dont have shielding. Most powerful pulse units have shielded coil cables. Do as he said, lay out the cable, dont stretch it, but have it between 2 points, coil to plug end so you can coat the whole thing, let it dry between coats.

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

Hook up the coil and see if it works. If it works, then use it, after making a new jacket. Take off all the broken cable jacket. Maybe wash it-without getting any water inside coil, to get off all saltwater. Then do as Treasure Hunter said, but coat the whole wire set-up. There appears to be an inner jacket, leave that alone, it is holding it all together, it is not shielding, I dont think. Many metal detectors have lousy coil cables, and lousy jackets and many dont have shielding. Most powerful pulse units have shielded coil cables. Do as he said, lay out the cable, dont stretch it, but have it between 2 points, coil to plug end so you can coat the whole thing, let it dry between coats.

Good idea, Ill try to splice it to my new unit first to see if the coil works before proceeding. The cable is so rotten that I was thinking it may be better to try and splice a new coil wire on. Its a Pulse Unit so do you think it has to be shielded to work? It looks like copper woven shielding but its rotten off in at least one place. I washed it carefully in fresh water but its too late the damage is done. I will try to strip off all the rotten cable jacket but I dont know how to repair the section of missing shielding.



Maybe I should explain the whole story from the beginning. I bought a new PI unit years ago and have had one problem after another.. It falses every couple seconds. I sent it back to the factory under warranty 2x. They say they can find nothing wrong but replaced all my electronics anyway. It still falses constantly and its very aggravating and Im guessing my problem may be the coil. A nice member sent me his old unit that he used in the Virgin Islands. The electronics are in the headphones and wires are broken off. I dont know if it works but I was hoping to just use his coil.

 

[IrvingPico]

As seen on your pictures you need a thorough fixing on those coils. Some are already exposed. Recommended to put sealant and wrap them with heat shrink tubing to ensure the protection and toughness.

 

[stevemc]

If the braid is copper, then it is shielding. If the coil works, then just make up new shielding with foil. wrap it with foil, then tape it. Then coat over that. Some PIs used the shielding as the return wire. Not a good idea. The best were shielded individual wires and a shield over all. PIs only use 2 wires for coil transmit and receive.

 

[Bigcypresshunter]

If the braid is copper, then it is shielding. If the coil works, then just make up new shielding with foil. wrap it with foil, then tape it. Then coat over that. Some PIs used the shielding as the return wire. Not a good idea. The best were shielded individual wires and a shield over all. PIs only use 2 wires for coil transmit and receive.

Because there is only 1 wire under the shield, the shielding must be the return wire. I think its toast unfortunately. I definitely need a new wire but I dont know how to connect it and Im not sure enough is left to connect to the coil so I gave up. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[nov2101]

I just bought a Vision on Ebay with V3i upgrade, seller discounted price after several emails due to grey coating crack in near blackflex dohickey/ on a 10" DD coil. I Googled and found this thread. Great job guys on the information. For now, clear silicon is drying then I ordered Black plastic dip and will coat the silicone. NOW I called Whites and CSR stated they will not be able to replace (JUST) the coil wire and that the coil would be needed to replaced. Shame, I see plastic nut on coil but it must be glued for water ingerity...