Jewelry Help

[Mkelly315]

I've recently started expanding my thrift store treasure hunting to jewelry. I have a question for the pro's in hopes of getting better.

1. Most times jewelry is displayed in a glass case where you would need the store clerks assistance when wanting to look closer at a piece. Do you guys ask to see every single piece or do you have an eye for signs of "unmarked" gold. What are some ways to tell if it's worth taking a closer look? How do you guys know if a piece is anything more special than a piece of costume jewelry without asking the clerk to look at every single piece? Are there tell-tale signs I should be looking out for?

I am usually good with stamps, hallmarks, and artist signatures. I just want to find a gold bracelet mixed in a sea of junk. Thanks for your help!

 

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[randazzo1]

I think experience is the only way here. I look at everything through the glass. It takes a second to know what’s not worth looking at. On a good day, maybe there are 4 or 5 items out of a hundred that deserve an up close inspection- and then 1 or 2 of those are keepers.

There are some things that are obvious - for example clasp types on necklaces and bracelets or stones that are set (bezel, prong etc) versus glued in. But for the most part it just takes experience.

Best way To get that experience is to handle as much jewelry as you can - relatives, friends, jewelry stores - touch and examine every piece you can.

 

[Goldmedalexchange]

I think experience is the only way here. I look at everything through the glass. It takes a second to know what’s not worth looking at. On a good day, maybe there are 4 or 5 items out of a hundred that deserve an up close inspection- and then 1 or 2 of those are keepers.

There are some things that are obvious - for example clasp types on necklaces and bracelets or stones that are set (bezel, prong etc) versus glued in. But for the most part it just takes experience.

Best way To get that experience is to handle as much jewelry as you can - relatives, friends, jewelry stores - touch and examine every piece you can.

This! And for me, coloration and texture. Most jewelry I have found with textured "striations or patterns on the back are not real gold or silver. Clasps can tell you a lot... if it's a cheap looking clasp, chances are it's a cheap piece of jewelry (who would want to buy an $800 bracelet if the clasp was gonna break or come loose). Also there are certain types of links near the clasps that are basically little pieces of flat metal that if you pay attention to can easily tell you real or fake (also this is often where the item may be stamped)

Good Luck and HH.

 

[catherine1]

I carry a small strong magnet in my pocket, about the size of a nickle, stuck to a jewlers loupe. Everything that looks good gets the magnet test first. And don't show your finds to the better half........because she likes them ALL.

 

[niffler]

Sometimes the marks can be tiny, and easily overlooked. Gold earrings are stamped on the post for instance, so small that you have to use magnification to see it. Also, different countries use different marks to indicate precious metal content, learn what these marks mean and you will be a step ahead. Good luck, and please show us here what you find!

 

[mugsisme]

I have them pull out several pieces at one time, especially if they are busy and it's gonna take forever for them to help me. No one is going to pull everything out, unless if it is on a tray. Some stores have trays and you just ask for this tray or that one.

I have a lot of issues with my eyes. I need the loupe and even then I can't always see. I run a nail along the edge of the post to feel if there is any writing. If there is, I'll walk over to where there is light. I also have a magnet on a key ring.

I look for several things. First, the clasp. If there is a figure 8 clasp on it, it is worth taking a look. Look also at all the pendants. People put real gold on fake chains and sterling silver. I recently got a 10K pendant. The store saw the 925 on the chain and though the whole thing was silver.

I also ask for a couple of weird things to look at. I don't like getting questions about "what do you do with all the stuff you buy" ... "do you buy for yourself or to resell" ... IT'S NOT YOUR BUSINESS! Just show me the stuff and let me look. That said, smiling and being super nice and chatting with them will distract them while you are looking too.

 

[GibH]

Look also at all the pendants. People put real gold on fake chains and sterling silver. I recently got a 10K pendant. The store saw the 925 on the chain and though the whole thing was silver.

Good advice, this is also true for charms. I used to find a lot 10k charms on fake/plated bracelets. It's been a while though, I don't seem to see charm bracelets anymore.

 

[ARC]

I will toss a few bones in this...

First addressing your "unmarked gold"... rarely is gold unmarked... but it does exist... most of the time unintentionally... meaning / for example... lets take a ring for example... it may have been re-sized at some point in its life and the marking(s) were destroyed in the process.
Now a necklace or a bracelet may have also been repaired by replacing the lost or broken clasp or marked "ring" or the likes with a cheaper clasp / ring which is unmarked.

By law... ALL precious metals sold as precious metals MUST ne marked with a minimum of a metals purity mark... this law has been in place for EONS.

Generally quality jewelry is marked with a minimum of at least one mark indicating its purity ... and most times this mark can elude the untrained eyes... and even trained ones at times...
BUT !... just because its marked DOES NOT mean its real.
There is so much fake marked gold in the world that you buy it over and over through your jewelry career... EVEN EXPERTS without testing can and are fooled constantly.

So be prepared to throw a lot of money to the wind... in the quests for a score down this long and winding road... due to one main fact...
SO MUCH jewelry has been produced since the beginning of mankind that it could fill an ocean... and 90% is NOT REAL.

Gold and other precious metals do not attract to a magnet so this is used as a INITIAL "tool" to sort masses of jewelry... BUT... this is NOT a precious metals test... this only is an INITIAL test...
Because....................... 50% of fake jewelry is also made of non magnetic metals such as copper... brass... aluminum... and every other metal including lead.... yes lead.

Now... I will say that "learning jewelry" IS NOT something that is learned quickly... this is a lifelong journey... but the basics are easy enough to score.

Some quick tips... and to clarify / add to the magnet tests...
ALL JEWELRY that has a clasp is magnetic in the clasp area... this is due to a simple little tiny steel spring within the clasp... so if a chain is magnetic in this area and the chain itself is not... then further inspection and ultimately testing is then needed.

ALL items ... marked or not... MUST be tested to solidify its material composition... there is NO shortcut.

There are "red flags"... and "green flags" that will point to the probabilities of a suspect piece of jewelry but again... testing us the only absolute.

Clues...
Non magnetic.
Soldered points and rings... particularly in/on clasping areas.
no discoloration in metals... except when dealing in silver.
existence of marks.
pronged stones versus glued.

IF I had a dollar for every piece of jewelry that "looks good" that wasn't... sheesh.

Again... your embarking on a long winding tuff luck road.... but hey... there is such a thing as "beginner's luck" ... ... so there is that.

Then there is Costume jewelry... which also is a whole other world... with values all their own and MEGA makers and amounts made.

Just a few tips / pointers from a guy who has 30 years of experience in the antique and modern day world...

and... still learning every day.

 

[Professor of Engineering]

Great post AARC!

 

[mugsisme]

One thing that drew my eye to this is that the pendant is much shinier than the chain. That is a clue. Not always a sign, because people mis-match shiny with dull/ tarnished pieces. But for 10 seconds it took to look, it was worth it. Great buy? no, but it's not terrible either.

 

[A2coins]

awesome post