Please!...As With Most Other Cam Locks On Rods Hunting In Water............

[John-Edmonton]

When you are finished detecting, Get that lower rod in some water, then loosen and tighten each cam several times, to get that buildup of fine silt which accumulates in the tiniest places loose and out of the cam thread. Then, loosen the cams, and keep them loose until your next water hunt. This will allow you to still adjust the length of the rods after they dry. If you keep your rod extended and do not clean out that fine silt, it will accumulate and make it very difficult to fix. I always cringe when I hear someone suggest you use a tool on plastic lower rods, as they will leave dents and scratches, leaving even more places where that fine silt can accumulate and cause even more problems.

If you want your equipment to last years, you have to maintain it, just like your car.

 

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[fella]

Good tips JE!

 

[rickv14623]

Good point

 

[cooper1841]

Had that exact problem, putting things away for the winter. Had not changed lower rods, or paid any attention to the cam locks, for months, don't cringe John, but I had to wrap a towel around them and use channel locks, just to budge them, so glad it didn't crack.. Great tip.............been there done that!!

 

[Kodiak43351]

Thanks for the tip.

 

[WaterWalker]

A rubber strap Grip Wrench will not leave marks on the shafts, if used properly.
I had to use them on my new ATX the first time out in salt water. I detected for 3 hours, rinsed the shafts and sprayed fresh water into the nuts with a drink bottle that had a pull out spout on it. That gave a pretty good spray, but evidently even after rotating the nuts the upper nut froze up on the hour trip home. It took two of us to loosen the nut.
One thing you do not want to do with the ATX is to try to hold the control box and twist the nuts. I believe it will be detrimental to the small locking lever that holds the upper shaft from turning and locking in 90 degree positions. I put one rubber Grip Wrench on the shaft just below the nut (toward the coil) I wanted to loosen and the second rubber Grip Wrench on the nut closer to the control box and apply torque to only the wrenches in opposite directions.
With a little practice you can get the wrenches work in both directions to work out the silt.
I do not have a tub to put the detector into so I can rotate the nuts under water...It is too cold and water outside will freeze. This summer it will be a different story and I will have an outside tub and keep it covered to keep the mosquitoes from making it a home and my life a bit easier when cleaning the ATX.
AND as the owner's manual alludes to: leave the shafts fully extended until the entire unit including the inside of the locking nuts have dried out.
I hope this helps and welcome any suggestions especially what to use for a tub that will accomodate the length of the ATX's shaft and control box when fully extended.

May the ring of gold be in your ears and the glitter in your scoop!
WaterWalker

 

[Metal Detecting Stuff]

John, that is great advice. I've seen shafts seized by salt/ sand accumulation. Once they get seized, you have to soak them in a bathtub of hot water to work them loose again. A little maintenance goes a long way.

Wayne

Www.metaldetectingstuff.com

 

[Sandman]

John, sure a little maintenance goes a long way, but a little fore thought in knowing if your are ever going to use the cam locks also works. I never have to adjust my shafts once I get the length right. They stay that way, but that's just me. I use the time I would have used playing with cam locks to hose of the whole unit and check cables and scoop for damage. But I have never had any damage to a Stealth Scoop. Now if I had an ATX I'd clean the cam locks as it was made for breaking down.