Has anybody used the Earthquake water pump brand 4310 made by Lifan for their high banker. If so please share your comment. This pump weights in at 17pounds they say, and this pump can be seen at power equipment direct.com I ask because, i go up in the mountains ,and for that weight it's light to carry. Mouseman
Pump
- Thread starter mouseman
- Start date
Sick4gold
Sr. Member
Welcome to Tnet!
Depends on what your wanting to do with the pump. If your wanting to make a nice shower it would be awesome but seeing as you posted in Dredging/highbanking I have to assume that your washing gravel.
Your pump is only rated to 38 GPM which is kind of pidly. These trash pumps just don't have the volume and pressure to make good mining tools.
Take a look at the Honda GXH50 pump with either Keenes pump or Prolines pump mounted to it. It will do roughly 100GPM and only weighs Mabe 25 lbs. plus you won't have to tote much gas up the mountain. The Honda will run for hours on 1 tank.
I believe the specs are at least 35GPM to barely get a 1 inch dredge to work, 50+ GPM for a 1 1/2 and atleast 80 for a 2 inch.
Keep in mind these mean just barely working right. Usually with the trash pumps you have to have the throttle screaming to achieve the water flow necessary.
High banking may be different and Mabe someone else can chime in about that.
The problem is of course cash- the Honda combo will run you 6-700 bucks but well worth the cash.
Depends on what your wanting to do with the pump. If your wanting to make a nice shower it would be awesome but seeing as you posted in Dredging/highbanking I have to assume that your washing gravel.
Your pump is only rated to 38 GPM which is kind of pidly. These trash pumps just don't have the volume and pressure to make good mining tools.
Take a look at the Honda GXH50 pump with either Keenes pump or Prolines pump mounted to it. It will do roughly 100GPM and only weighs Mabe 25 lbs. plus you won't have to tote much gas up the mountain. The Honda will run for hours on 1 tank.
I believe the specs are at least 35GPM to barely get a 1 inch dredge to work, 50+ GPM for a 1 1/2 and atleast 80 for a 2 inch.
Keep in mind these mean just barely working right. Usually with the trash pumps you have to have the throttle screaming to achieve the water flow necessary.
High banking may be different and Mabe someone else can chime in about that.
The problem is of course cash- the Honda combo will run you 6-700 bucks but well worth the cash.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4
Yes, I'm putting together a high banker. I have a 52a kneene sluice, and stand. a complete kneene hopper, and I'm looking at pumps. Thank you for your input. Know I have a better understanding for a pump. I was thinking light, light, light. But, I see now light junk don't cut it. again thank mouseman crescent city,ca
Timberdoodle
Sr. Member
Hi mouseman, I have one of the pumps (same style different name of man.) that you referred to. Even though it was rated at the same gpm output as a Honda wx10 and uses a copy style pump it definitely did not compare to the wx10 in total pressure and volume. The site also listed the Lifan LF1.52WP - 39 GPM (1.5") Water Pump, I have one of these pumps (again different name) and have used it for 3 years with no problems. The site listed it as a 39gpm pump, but most other sites list it at 50gpm. I can attest that it is closer to 50-60gpm and is almost twice the output of the Hondawx10. Jobe uses this pump for their 1.5 dredge/highbanker and they can be found on ebay for about $150 delivered. I have 3 Honda's (2 wx10's, 1 Honda/p90) and several other pumps, I have a hard time spending 3x the price for the Honda after using this pump now for 3 years, but if portability and weight are a major factor, it is hard to beat the Honda.
Update: Just saw that the Lifan pumps come with 2 pump styles. The one rated for 39gpm is a trash pump style (round shape). (could not see the difference in the website pic of the pump) The other type they make is a clear water pump which is rectangular in shape and has tighter tolerance which is rated for 52gpm. You"ll want the clear water style to get the most volume and pressure from the same motor.
Update: Just saw that the Lifan pumps come with 2 pump styles. The one rated for 39gpm is a trash pump style (round shape). (could not see the difference in the website pic of the pump) The other type they make is a clear water pump which is rectangular in shape and has tighter tolerance which is rated for 52gpm. You"ll want the clear water style to get the most volume and pressure from the same motor.
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Fabrication Specialists
Full Member
Good day all,
I had this information on another forum and figured I'd put it here also for you folks to read and hopefully it helps out. Those Chinese pumps work ok but here are a few tips for extending the engine life. Our shop fabs prospecting equipment and we're also a Briggs & Stratton dealer/warranty center, Kohler, Tanaka, Troy Bilt, etc. The absolute biggest thing you can do for those engines is oil changes and a clean air filter. Obviously this is good for any engine, but you need to be religious on the cheaper engines. Also most of the time the air filter is a simple piece of foam pressed between 2 pieces of plastic and doesn't make the best seal. I have retrofitted a few engines with aftermarket air filters that filter much better and the round adapters that go on the carb and seal better than the plastic stock assembly. Luckily these engines are used extensively in the go kart world so aftermarket parts are plentiful. Here is the web address to the aftermarket air filters and adapters, also the 6.5 hp is what they call a Honda GX200 "clone".
AGK - Home Page - Affordable Go Karts
I've had good success going to a round clamp on filter and adapter for the Chinese engines. Also with the oil use regular old conventional 20w50, 30 weight etc, on the first 10 hours or so. This will ensure a proper break in and check the oil often while breaking in the engine as it will use some. After about 10 hours you can switch to a synthetic oil if you like, but not during break in as the synthetics won't allow the rings to wear in and seat properly.
I forgot to mention a few more key items when dealing with the Chinese engines. First thing when you unpack that bad boy grab your metric wrench set and give it a good once over making sure all fasteners are tight. I've seen more than one brand new Harbor Freight engine/pump, etc with loose bolts or random bolts that fell out during shipment in the bottom of the box. Again this is good for any new engine you get but I've never unpacked a Briggs or Honda and had loose fasteners. The next important thing is once you get through the break in period remove the extremely poor quality Chinese spark plug and throw it as far you can. These spark plug are complete crap (I think they called a "Torch" spark plug). Since during the break in process you'll be burning oil might as well burn it on that poor quality plug, after break in put in a good one. I personally like NGK, but you'll do fine with an NGK, Denso or a Champion. Go out and buy yourself 2 new plugs of whatever brand you like. Change the first one after break in and put the other in your tool box. With the new overhead valve engines and better emission standards on the engines they run cooler and cleaner than the old "L" head engines (the older Briggs types with the valves right next to the piston in the block) and you'll rarely foul a plug but if you do it's good to have one and a wrench to change it or your trip could be over real quick. I'll put the spark plug cross reference numbers below to save you the aggravation of trying to find them since my Briggs dealer manuals have them readily accessible.
Here are the plug numbers and these will work with the Honda or clone engines both GX160 and GX200
NGK = BPR6ES or BP6ES (the "R" is just a resistor for radio interference so either plug will work equally well. If you have an older engine that uses oil you can go to a hotter plug such as a BPR5ES or BR5ES to reduce fouling. With the higher temps the engines run on dredges, I always suggest the cooler plug to start with.
Denso = W20EPR-U
Champion = RN9YC (may be a little harder to find than the NGK or Denso)
With that you should be in good shape. Trust me that Chinese "Torch" spark plug will leave you high and dry at the worst possible time so do some preventative maintenance now and throw it out.
If you ever have a no start situation the first thing to check is the gas then check the oil. These engines have a low oil shut down and I can't tell you haw many engines I've had in the shop with the no start or no spark complaint that was simply low on oil. If the engine oil level is low it kills the spark to the engine to prevent damage and it won't start or run. If you keep the air filter clean and the oil changed religiously it will last a while, they just can't be abused.
Ok now for the crankshaft, if your replacing a Briggs or Honda engine with a "clone" engine. The pump side of the crankshaft has a 5/8 threaded shaft. Some of the clone engines I have seen aren't an actual 5/8" they're actually 16mm (5/8" in .625" inches and the 16 mm is .629" inches). That doesn't seem like much, but the impeller WON'T fit without machining. Definitely be cautious when ordering clone engines as this little mix up could cost more in machining fees then ordering another Briggs or Honda engine.
Now on the shade tree mechanic side I have heard of people turning on their engines and with the crank turning put a flat file and/or sandpaper to the crank to "turn it down" but I don't endorse or recommend this procedure as it is not accurate and a misfitting or mis-aligned impeller will destroy the pump housing.
One last thing after your done running your pump for the day pull the drain plug and flush it out thoroughly. What tends to happen is small bits of sand, dirt, gravel will settle to the bottom of the pump housing. After a while the sand and dirt will dry up and form a concrete like substance. The next time you fire up your pump that "concrete" will start grinding away at your impeller and you'll begin to notice pressure losses due to the impeller getting smaller and/or the housing getting bigger and the increased tolerances will create a loss of pressure. Take an extra minute and flush the pump out good!
If anyone has any questions please feel free to email me at [email protected] anytime, advice is free and just may save you some money and headaches!
I hope this helps folks out,
Thanks, Chris
I had this information on another forum and figured I'd put it here also for you folks to read and hopefully it helps out. Those Chinese pumps work ok but here are a few tips for extending the engine life. Our shop fabs prospecting equipment and we're also a Briggs & Stratton dealer/warranty center, Kohler, Tanaka, Troy Bilt, etc. The absolute biggest thing you can do for those engines is oil changes and a clean air filter. Obviously this is good for any engine, but you need to be religious on the cheaper engines. Also most of the time the air filter is a simple piece of foam pressed between 2 pieces of plastic and doesn't make the best seal. I have retrofitted a few engines with aftermarket air filters that filter much better and the round adapters that go on the carb and seal better than the plastic stock assembly. Luckily these engines are used extensively in the go kart world so aftermarket parts are plentiful. Here is the web address to the aftermarket air filters and adapters, also the 6.5 hp is what they call a Honda GX200 "clone".
AGK - Home Page - Affordable Go Karts
I've had good success going to a round clamp on filter and adapter for the Chinese engines. Also with the oil use regular old conventional 20w50, 30 weight etc, on the first 10 hours or so. This will ensure a proper break in and check the oil often while breaking in the engine as it will use some. After about 10 hours you can switch to a synthetic oil if you like, but not during break in as the synthetics won't allow the rings to wear in and seat properly.
I forgot to mention a few more key items when dealing with the Chinese engines. First thing when you unpack that bad boy grab your metric wrench set and give it a good once over making sure all fasteners are tight. I've seen more than one brand new Harbor Freight engine/pump, etc with loose bolts or random bolts that fell out during shipment in the bottom of the box. Again this is good for any new engine you get but I've never unpacked a Briggs or Honda and had loose fasteners. The next important thing is once you get through the break in period remove the extremely poor quality Chinese spark plug and throw it as far you can. These spark plug are complete crap (I think they called a "Torch" spark plug). Since during the break in process you'll be burning oil might as well burn it on that poor quality plug, after break in put in a good one. I personally like NGK, but you'll do fine with an NGK, Denso or a Champion. Go out and buy yourself 2 new plugs of whatever brand you like. Change the first one after break in and put the other in your tool box. With the new overhead valve engines and better emission standards on the engines they run cooler and cleaner than the old "L" head engines (the older Briggs types with the valves right next to the piston in the block) and you'll rarely foul a plug but if you do it's good to have one and a wrench to change it or your trip could be over real quick. I'll put the spark plug cross reference numbers below to save you the aggravation of trying to find them since my Briggs dealer manuals have them readily accessible.
Here are the plug numbers and these will work with the Honda or clone engines both GX160 and GX200
NGK = BPR6ES or BP6ES (the "R" is just a resistor for radio interference so either plug will work equally well. If you have an older engine that uses oil you can go to a hotter plug such as a BPR5ES or BR5ES to reduce fouling. With the higher temps the engines run on dredges, I always suggest the cooler plug to start with.
Denso = W20EPR-U
Champion = RN9YC (may be a little harder to find than the NGK or Denso)
With that you should be in good shape. Trust me that Chinese "Torch" spark plug will leave you high and dry at the worst possible time so do some preventative maintenance now and throw it out.
If you ever have a no start situation the first thing to check is the gas then check the oil. These engines have a low oil shut down and I can't tell you haw many engines I've had in the shop with the no start or no spark complaint that was simply low on oil. If the engine oil level is low it kills the spark to the engine to prevent damage and it won't start or run. If you keep the air filter clean and the oil changed religiously it will last a while, they just can't be abused.
Ok now for the crankshaft, if your replacing a Briggs or Honda engine with a "clone" engine. The pump side of the crankshaft has a 5/8 threaded shaft. Some of the clone engines I have seen aren't an actual 5/8" they're actually 16mm (5/8" in .625" inches and the 16 mm is .629" inches). That doesn't seem like much, but the impeller WON'T fit without machining. Definitely be cautious when ordering clone engines as this little mix up could cost more in machining fees then ordering another Briggs or Honda engine.
Now on the shade tree mechanic side I have heard of people turning on their engines and with the crank turning put a flat file and/or sandpaper to the crank to "turn it down" but I don't endorse or recommend this procedure as it is not accurate and a misfitting or mis-aligned impeller will destroy the pump housing.
One last thing after your done running your pump for the day pull the drain plug and flush it out thoroughly. What tends to happen is small bits of sand, dirt, gravel will settle to the bottom of the pump housing. After a while the sand and dirt will dry up and form a concrete like substance. The next time you fire up your pump that "concrete" will start grinding away at your impeller and you'll begin to notice pressure losses due to the impeller getting smaller and/or the housing getting bigger and the increased tolerances will create a loss of pressure. Take an extra minute and flush the pump out good!
If anyone has any questions please feel free to email me at [email protected] anytime, advice is free and just may save you some money and headaches!
I hope this helps folks out,
Thanks, Chris
Last edited:
russau
Gold Member
FS thanks for this link.lots of info for my engine! hope i never need it!
Doitlaynstyle
Hero Member
- Feb 21, 2013
- 683
- 352
- Detector(s) used
- Rock Nose and sniffer belly
- Primary Interest:
- Prospecting
Eventually you are going to want to go bigger. If you are going to run a sluice you need to make sure that you have the flow you need. If you are back packing I get it but you are going to be fighting the setup more than you will be mining if you go with the bare minimums. I built my own highbanker from scratch and I am building my own trailer mounted trommel for next years run. I will post the playlist below and the pump I chose. The pump weighs a bit more than what you are looking at but you wont have to ever buy again unless you really get into the majors....
2 in. Clear Water Pump with 212cc Gas Engine
Gold sluicebox progression - YouTube
2 in. Clear Water Pump with 212cc Gas Engine
Gold sluicebox progression - YouTube
russau
Gold Member
after watching your vid i have the strangest desire for a cold bottel of beer.
Doitlaynstyle
Hero Member
- Feb 21, 2013
- 683
- 352
- Detector(s) used
- Rock Nose and sniffer belly
- Primary Interest:
- Prospecting
Only bud. The hef is for me lol
