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I agree with your info badger (Americans think target separation). This is exactly why I would suggest to those who want to relic hunt exclusively, not to spend high-$$ on a popular machine that is good at "cherry picking" when a $600 VLF will exceed at sensitivity and depth but more importantly not disc. out a wide variety of "junk". These expensive machines are perfect for coin hunting when you have only a few hours and need to find a few goodies however, when one is ready to spend a day in a worked out park (a park that has been cherry picked) and dig all the "iffy" signals with a $600 VLF, you will find more coins and interesting collectables than you can shake a stick at.
These popular expensive detectors are advertised as what the professionals use. Well, I am definitely a pro and I will never in a million years buy a $1500 machine. I also would never use a $100 machine either.
The best all purpose, powerhouse, professional metal detectors that you will never grow out of retail around $600 to $800. These machines however, require one to learn how to listen to signals rather than look at a digital screen.
I'm sure I will probably offend a few who own $1500 machines, but given the fact that I have been a hardcore detectorist for over 20 years and have owned a variety of detectors, gives me the right to express this.
If you are someone who has limited time and has a few unworked sites, then go for the high-$$ detectors.
If you are someone who likes to leave no stone unturned and has time to really "work it", then try out a mid-$$ detector.
If you are just starting out, don't waste your money on a cheap detector, as you will find that a mid-$$ MD is just as easy to operate except you will not out-grow it's performance.
It's all like the story of the three bears. A bowl of porridge was either too hot or too cold. The one that was "just right" was the bowl that was in the middle.
Talking about what machine to use can be a very touchy subject, so if no one responds and a few hate me, I'll understand. I hope this helps someone though.
Dave.
These popular expensive detectors are advertised as what the professionals use. Well, I am definitely a pro and I will never in a million years buy a $1500 machine. I also would never use a $100 machine either.
The best all purpose, powerhouse, professional metal detectors that you will never grow out of retail around $600 to $800. These machines however, require one to learn how to listen to signals rather than look at a digital screen.
I'm sure I will probably offend a few who own $1500 machines, but given the fact that I have been a hardcore detectorist for over 20 years and have owned a variety of detectors, gives me the right to express this.
If you are someone who has limited time and has a few unworked sites, then go for the high-$$ detectors.
If you are someone who likes to leave no stone unturned and has time to really "work it", then try out a mid-$$ detector.
If you are just starting out, don't waste your money on a cheap detector, as you will find that a mid-$$ MD is just as easy to operate except you will not out-grow it's performance.
It's all like the story of the three bears. A bowl of porridge was either too hot or too cold. The one that was "just right" was the bowl that was in the middle.
Talking about what machine to use can be a very touchy subject, so if no one responds and a few hate me, I'll understand. I hope this helps someone though.
Dave.
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