What makes a cent MS67RDor MS68RD?

Coppercrazy

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So I was on eBay, and I saw that 2013 P/D shield cents graded through NGC that graded MS67RD go for around $50 and ones that graded MS68RD go for around $250. Ones that are MS66RD go for about the gradin fee $15-20. So I was thinking with these new no boxes of cents I get to look for some cents that may be MS67RD+ and send them off for grading. What makes it that high of a grade, and how rare are they? Like could I find one in maybe every 2 or 3 boxes of solid 2013 cents?
 

Davers

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I also wonder about such things, maybe the difference is an extra streak only seen under high magnification.:icon_scratch::icon_scratch: Now I call myself a perfectionist , but dang paying over 5$ for a new cent is not my cup of tea. [streak ,spot ,nick,or slight ding from falling from the minting machine or maybe a slight diff, in the strike?] I'm def, new to such anal top tier grading on common MS coins. Give me a microscope and I can find a flaw in almost any coin & if I don't I suppose it would grade a MS 70 perfect .
 

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Davers

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Well maybe a microscope is a little much. [ if not trying to authenticate ]
 

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Coppercrazy

Coppercrazy

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I know a completely flawless coin (MS70) has to have NO marks whatsoever under 5X magnification, and have a perfectly centered strike, according to NGC, which is the grading service used on these coins people buy at $250+ a piece. I wonder what a MS69RD would go for?! I just want to know the difference in MS67RD and MS68RD
 

coinguy*matthew

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PCGS has currently not graded any 2013 shield cents over MS67 and only 15 coins were given the grade. Generally speaking when TPG's give a coin a grade over MS66 it has to be fully struck many collectors understate the importance of a good clean strike.....

The best example of this would be peace dollars as they are often weakly struck and its very easy to make out unlike lincoln cents....

Full strike....


images



Decent strike......


PeaceDollar1924NGCHorizontal.jpg



Weak/poor strike....


Peace1924MS65Horizontal.jpg



If you think you have what it takes to submit top pop coins for sure go ahead with it but ill say its not as black and white as it seems.......
 

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Coppercrazy

Coppercrazy

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PCGS has currently not graded any 2013 shield cents over MS67 and only 15 coins were given the grade. Generally speaking when TPG's give a coin a grade over MS66 it has to be fully struck many collectors understate the importance of a good clean strike.....

The best example of this would be peace dollars as they are often weakly struck and its very easy to make out unlike lincoln cents....

Full strike....

Decent strike......

<img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=829510"/>

Weak/poor strike....

<img src="http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=829512"/>

Thanks, I figured you would chime in on this! So what do you think the odds are of running into a MS68RD 2013 shield cent in circulation? Assuming I'm looking through only brand new boxes of cents.
 

coinguy*matthew

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Thanks, I figured you would chime in on this! So what do you think the odds are of running into a MS68RD 2013 shield cent in circulation? Assuming I'm looking through only brand new boxes of cents.

It would be cheaper to buy one honestly and its why they are fetching the premium they are getting. What most people don't realize is that in order to submit coins regularly to a TPG it costs a lot of money between the registration, grading and insured shipping it would end up costing you money as i would think you would submit several batches before getting a MS67 let alone a 68.

Here is example.....

PCGS MS67

27998361_38137142_450.jpg
 

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Coppercrazy

Coppercrazy

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Wow, that is one nice looking cent, but not worth $250 to me. I was just wondering if it was possible to make money doing this, which I guess would be really difficult.
 

coinguy*matthew

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Wow, that is one nice looking cent, but not worth $250 to me. I was just wondering if it was possible to make money doing this, which I guess would be really difficult.

The only way its profitable is with a massive submission this way you get the bulk submission deal and were lucky enough to get the only MS68 coupled with a few MS67's. figuring the MS66 and lower coins would be sold at a loss but would hedge some of the fees. That is what separates you from a serious registry set collector and I don't say that in a bad way either those guys are crazy competitive some don't even really know what they're buying. If it were me i would hold out for a better than average MS66 then resubmit it for a better grade probably more likely than snagging one from the wild although not impossible, nothing is impossible. The way i collect is to buy one grade under the grade i really want but look at coins for several months before i make a purchase this way i know what is better than average for the grade and then resubmit the coin for an upgrade. This has been pretty successful strategy and works for me but not everyone is alike.....
 

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Coppercrazy

Coppercrazy

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That is what separates you from a serious registry set collector and I don't say that in a bad way either those guys are crazy competitive some don't even really know what they're buying. If it were me i would hold out for a better than average MS66 then resubmit it for a better grade probably more likely than snagging one from the wild although not impossible, nothing is impossible. The way i collect is to buy one grade under the grade i really want but look at coins for several months before i make a purchase this way i know what is better than average for the grade and then resubmit the coin for an upgrade. This has been pretty successful strategy and works for me but not everyone is alike.....

Yeah, I just don't see paying $250 for a 2013 cent worth it...I don't have the money to go buying top pop coins either.
 

huntsman53

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Thanks, I figured you would chime in on this! So what do you think the odds are of running into a MS68RD 2013 shield cent in circulation? Assuming I'm looking through only brand new boxes of cents.

What you are saying is a conundrum! Are you looking in boxes of brand new cents or boxes of circulated cents?

It would be hard to put a percentage on the chances of finding a MS68RD 2013 Lincoln Shield Cent in circulation! However, the chances of finding one is probably 1 in 10,000,000 or even worse chances but who knows, you might find one in the very first box. You would increase your chances of finding one by trying to pick up a box of new rolls of 2013 Lincoln Shield Cents from the Bank, off eBay or a site that sells new rolls of Cents. Stick with the boxes having rolls of circulated Cents for roll searching for Variety and Error coins and boxes having rolls of new Cents for roll searching for higher grade coins.


Frank
 

Generic_Lad

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Honestly its stuff like these minor grade points that make me dislike slabbed coins. By the time you're paying a premium for an extra point in high grade, you're buying the slab... not the coin. I've never understood why you'd buy a slabbed 2013 cent as opposed to just a nice, raw example. Or heck, an entire roll of raw examples. For the price of a single slabbed one I think you should be able to have an entire box of uncirculated, nice examples. If you had an MS-67 and MS-68 cent in front of you raw, I doubt that most collectors could tell the difference. Why pay a premium just for some plastic for a coin that you can quite literally walk into nearly any bank and get for face value? I understand slabbing and grading for circulated coins and as a means of protecting against counterfeits for heavily counterfeited coins, but for pocket change (and bullion!) not so much.
 

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Coppercrazy

Coppercrazy

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Honestly its stuff like these minor grade points that make me dislike slabbed coins. By the time you're paying a premium for an extra point in high grade, you're buying the slab... not the coin. I've never understood why you'd buy a slabbed 2013 cent as opposed to just a nice, raw example. Or heck, an entire roll of raw examples. For the price of a single slabbed one I think you should be able to have an entire box of uncirculated, nice examples. If you had an MS-67 and MS-68 cent in front of you raw, I doubt that most collectors could tell the difference. Why pay a premium just for some plastic for a coin that you can quite literally walk into nearly any bank and get for face value? I understand slabbing and grading for circulated coins and as a means of protecting against counterfeits for heavily counterfeited coins, but for pocket change (and bullion!) not so much.

I totally agree with this statement. I think it is just to say you have it really.
 

coinguy*matthew

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Honestly its stuff like these minor grade points that make me dislike slabbed coins. By the time you're paying a premium for an extra point in high grade, you're buying the slab... not the coin. I've never understood why you'd buy a slabbed 2013 cent as opposed to just a nice, raw example. Or heck, an entire roll of raw examples. For the price of a single slabbed one I think you should be able to have an entire box of uncirculated, nice examples. If you had an MS-67 and MS-68 cent in front of you raw, I doubt that most collectors could tell the difference. Why pay a premium just for some plastic for a coin that you can quite literally walk into nearly any bank and get for face value? I understand slabbing and grading for circulated coins and as a means of protecting against counterfeits for heavily counterfeited coins, but for pocket change (and bullion!) not so much.

We agree with you, we were just discussing if it would be profitable or not and clearly its not...
 

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Yeah, I think the OP was asking if it was worthwhile to search coins for high grades, not if buying one was sensible. Frankly, finding high grade coins in circulation is a waste of time. I you want to own one and don't want to pay for the high priced slabs, get a few rolls of UNC's from the bank, go through them, and pick out the best one based on strike, bag marks, spots, etc.
 

bigscores

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Honestly its stuff like these minor grade points that make me dislike slabbed coins. By the time you're paying a premium for an extra point in high grade, you're buying the slab... not the coin. I've never understood why you'd buy a slabbed 2013 cent as opposed to just a nice, raw example. Or heck, an entire roll of raw examples. For the price of a single slabbed one I think you should be able to have an entire box of uncirculated, nice examples. If you had an MS-67 and MS-68 cent in front of you raw, I doubt that most collectors could tell the difference. Why pay a premium just for some plastic for a coin that you can quite literally walk into nearly any bank and get for face value? I understand slabbing and grading for circulated coins and as a means of protecting against counterfeits for heavily counterfeited coins, but for pocket change (and bullion!) not so much.

It's competition and prestige. If you're somebody like me with lots of disposable income and you already have a super-high end set, what's another $250, or hell, even another $1k to maintain your top ranking? At the end of the day, it hardly makes a dent in my wallet and I get to keep my status as a king of the subtype.

With that said, I don't collect top pop moderns, but I sure do enjoy making 'em.
 

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Coppercrazy

Coppercrazy

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It's competition and prestige. If you're somebody like me with lots of disposable income and you already have a super-high end set, what's another $250, or hell, even another $1k to maintain your top ranking? At the end of the day, it hardly makes a dent in my wallet and I get to keep my status as a king of the subtype.

With that said, I don't collect top pop moderns, but I sure do enjoy making 'em.

If you don't mind me asking, what's your job? I'm curious. Surgeon? Haha
 

bigscores

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If you don't mind me asking, what's your job? I'm curious. Surgeon? Haha

I work for an independent, privately owned trading firm, I'm assistant VP of international trading operations. My boss (head of the international trading division) is probably a few years from retirement, then I'll take over the division and probably be making the real money. It's been a pretty insane year in my life. Joined a company, changed divisions, got promoted, got headhunted... I went from making $60k a year to making... a lot more. Multiples. Downside is... well, ever see me post at like, 2am? That means something happened internationally that affects my companies holdings and I got called. I'm on call, at all times, for any reason.

I could never be a doctor, too many years of school. Although most surgeons make more than I do... for now.
 

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Coppercrazy

Coppercrazy

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Haha ok, so I'll put you on roughly $200,000-$300,000 a year. That's pretty sick, although studies show that making anything over $65,000 doesn't really effect your happiness. Like you said, disposable income. I just want to make enough one day to live in the middle class. I don't need anything more.
 

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