Ace 250 ? With Pull Tabs/Nail Discrimination

raiderguy10

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We get "points" (basically dollars) at work for promoting good work. After reading these threads for about 6 weeks now I decided on the following:

You are required to use them in increments of 100 points - so I ordered:

Garrett Ace 250 for $213
Garrett 6.5 x 9" Coil Cover - $14.95
Garrett Edge Digger - $33.96
Garrett Camo Diggers Pouch - $10.16
Garrett Environmental Screen Cover - $14.95
Garrett Ace Carry Bag - $14.95

Then I found a $5 coupon code to get me back under the $300 mark :)

My question is this. After reading these threads and watching the Garrett Ace videos a few times I am wondering if there is ever a reason NOT to discriminate the nail and pull tabs on the 250. I think I read on one thread that a ring or jewlery would have the same setting as a pull tab - is that true? When my Ace comes I plan on practicing in the All Metal mode - but to me if there is a setting that will turn the signal off on pull tabs and nails I'm curious as to what disadvantages that may present.

Also - from the list of stuff I ordered - does that pretty much cover everything I SHOULD have to begin? I figured I'd start here and if I like it this summer I'd ask for a pin pointer for Xmas since my wife never knows what to get me.

Thanks in advance for the education.

P.S. - One last question re: plug digging. I've been watching lots of youtube videos on how to porperly dig a plug as to not harm the land or kill the grass? Some say use your digger - go at a 90 degree angle and cut a circle then pull it up to prevent killing grass. Others I've seen do a half moon cut and pull it up. Does the depth of the target dictate which is better....like the first scenario for deep targets and the latter for shallow ones perhaps?

I just want to try and have a good handle on how to properly do things so when the detector comes I can read the manual, bench test, and get started rather than worrying about these kinds of things ;)
 
You need a pinpointer. The current top dog is the Whites TRX. To discriminate or not is personal choice.. try it for a while, then try without, see what works for you.
You may find with iron out, your machine will pick up the halo around the iron and you will be digging ghost targets. If the machine only has one tone, it may be better to remove iron as you can not tell iron from good by sound..
About Halo Effect
 
If it was me doing this for the same price I would go with the Eurotek Pro. My ETP blows my Garrett Ace 250 away in performance. You do need to get a in pointer too.
 
If it was me doing this for the same price I would go with the Eurotek Pro. My ETP blows my Garrett Ace 250 away in performance. You do need to get a in pointer too.

I agree.. for the same price range, I'd go with the EuroTek Pro.. it has Iron audio which will help out in determining whether you have a pull tab or nail, or something worth digging.
 
The 250 has a setting to discriminate out pulltabs, but most who hunt don't do that, unless they are just strictly coin shooting. Spend some time in your yard and learn your machine. That is the most important part of it all, you just have to learn what your machine is telling you.

For plugs I like that half moon plug as well, and hinge it up, seems to work just fine in my yard. Again, practice this in your yard, even though its easier to go grab the spade and start digging big holes, you'll need the practice for when your not at home.
 
If you need a pinpointer on the cheap for right now get a harbor freight one I think they go for under $20. Then the wife can still get you a better one for Chriatmas
Do practice the plug digging in your yard. Use a drop cloth or plastic piece about a foot square to pile dirt on you take out of the hole then you just pour it back into the hole after the target is retrieved, put the plug back and step on it, much neater. The whole idea is to not be able to tell where you have dug when you are done. GL. HH!
 
I've had the Ace250 for one year now. Check out my threads and you will see that I have found a substantial amount of jewelry, gold and silver.
I always hunt in the all metal mode and I only discriminate the iron. I hunt mostly schools and have hunted some civil war sites. Most all of the gold rings I have found have rang up in the
nickel area. A few gold items rang up just below nickel and just above the nickel range. I always dig the pull tabs....as you never know.
Instead of buying the coil cover, edge digger, and screen cover, I would suggest getting the 9" x 12" coil for greater depth at $84.00. I got my digger at a yard sale for $2. You could get a new one at Lowe's for about $5. The stock coil is good for trashy areas....but if you do any relic digging or are looking for deep silver coins the larger coil would be good.
I haven't seen any need to get that screen cover......as I don't hunt in the rain and I don't throw dirt on my machine....lol.
I did get the pinpointer from Harbor freight for about $17. I am pleased with the performance of it and see no need at this point to pay $100 for one. I did modify the switch that is on it.
You can see videos on youtube about that if you want to.
 
I knew I wanted the coil cover and the bag - so to keep me under the $300 mark I basically thought of the rest as "throw ins" for free. I live in ND and it is ALWAYS windy here. I've read it's not good to get dirt into the electronic part of the detector so thought it'd be a good idea for the cover because of that. The digger and pouch were again throw ins. I'll probably get a trowel from Lowes that'll be my main digger. The Garrett can be backup in case I run into any wolves :laughing7:

I did get the Harbor Freight Cen-Tech pinpointer for $16.99 as well. It'll be here before my detector. Decided if I enjoy metal detecting then I'll get a Garrett for Xmas and the kidos can use the Cen-Tech when we go digging. I have also read about the switch - I don't know how to solder but I'm hoping I can find someone that does.
 
When you get the Cen-tech....open it up and look at the switch. The problem with it is- when you push in on the button during normal use, the button pushes on the 2 connectors (where the wires attach)....and causes them to move which makes the button eventually lose contact with them. What I did, was to place some folded up electrical tape between the connectors and the rod that is directly behind the switch. So when I push in on the switch it has some back support. I haven't had a problem with it since I did that. I also placed a hard piece of plastic in the electrical tape so when you push in on the button it has more support. This is a lot easier than trying to solder a new switch in and does the job of fixing the problem with the switch. I've had mine for a year now and it works fine.
Good luck hunting....
 
If you are relic hunting, I wouldn't discriminated against iron. I found an old hatchet from maybe the 40s and it showed up as a nail with my ace 250. Gold will sometimes show up as a pull tab though.
 
The kids bounty hunter came in today. They wanted to try it so we went to the park. Boy did they love it. VERY impressed with how it operates for kids.


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Now I just need my ace to come so I can join in on the fun :)
 

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