Hey Nat, there are other posts I've written about PP'ing with the 250 in the Garrett section........for here, tell your uncle to keep his eyes off the display. The worse thing you can do is train yourself to look at those bars. The first step in PP'ing with the 250 is understanding where the target is sounding off when it passes under the coil. You can't PP'ing something if you have not narrowed down its location with a machine that will PP in all metal mode. Unless you can get the best idea of where the object you want to PP is, you may as well end up PP'ing targets nearby. When you PP, the machine will PP anything, as it is in all metal mode. Back to the coil......when you swing over a target, on a left to right sweep, it will sound off when it passes the left outer coil and vice versa. Based on this fact, you should be able to narrow the location down by tightening the left and right swings and observing the outer coils when the machine sounds off. Once you do have that initial PP'ing skill in order, then you can start using the actual PP'er. Pick a spot in the middle, right around that little U will do and make that the center. Instead of going for precision, sweep carelessly to get an idea. Disregard the garrett site's advice about moving the coil forward and backward. Instead turn your body 90' and repeat the same. You want the smaller sideways length of the coil to do the PP'ing. Precision will come with practice. Precision can also come by re'pressing the PP button. I never used this at first, but have and it does work well. After the initial PP, let the button go and press it again. This "Detuning?" makes the objects signature smaller. Also, try not to PP with alot of sensitivity, especially with shallow objects. If you know or think that it's around an inch or two, go lower on the sens. This will make the objects field and signature while PP'ing even smaller.
