Bazooka Super Duper Prospector

[FFFPatriot]

Howdy fellers. Thought I'd share a few modifications that I made to my Bazooka Prospector. She's been very faithful to me for the past few years, but I always felt she was a bit "horizontally challenged" . I was gonna get the 48" Prospector in addition to the 36" that I've got, in order to increase travel/ break-apart of material a little better. Then I thought, hell, that's only 12" more, which would give drier material a little more time to travel and break apart, and thought something a few feet longer would really increase my chances of breaking material apart, which would yield me more gold. I was gonna buy a sheet of 1/4" ABS plastic and buy me a plastic welder, but that doggone sheet of ABS costed the same to ship as the plastic itself ($300.00 plus total), I'd be fine with a plastic weld gun, for future projects. I decided to build it out of 3/8" birch plywood instead and coat everything with a couple coats of kevlar bedliner. I welded a frame for the whole deal. I was a bit hung up on the fluidizing chamber intake when I first got my Bazooka. The intake tubes protrude about 2" towards the rear that are mounted to a flat backwall that I was thinking would create negative back pressure from the flowing creek/ river water, against the water flow that needs to enter the 3 intake tubes, so that's why I made the 3 into 1 half inch tubes that are connected to the single pvc piece that has the shut off valve on the rear. I clamped and heat shaped an oil funnel that connects to the fluidizing chamber that sits at the rear of the thing that should increase the pressure in the tubes. The valve will restrict the flow, in case I'm at a very fast moving creek, that has the possibility of being too much pressure and blowing fine gold out of the chamber. I guess a few test runs with my eyes goggled under some cold creek water will tell me how much, if any, I should turn that valve. The idea I have, is to assemble the whole thing at the water's edge, and set it down in the drink, adjust the legs, and dig my ass off!
So what do you fellers think? Here's a few pictures I took for a better look at her. Jd.

 

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[Underburden]

Geesh, not to be rude but...what were you thinking?

 

[Goodyguy]

She sure is sumpthin.

Let us know how she works out for ya.
The results of your field test should be interesting.



Go for the Gold
GG~

 

[FFFPatriot]

Geesh, not to be rude but...what were you thinking?

I figured some would ask me that. I gotta perfect narrow fast flowing creek that I mine around where I need the material to saturate a bit longer than the three ft length of the Bazooka allows, ensuring a more thourough break up. The areas I go to are very close to my truck, so packing it far isn't an issue.

 

[Goldwasher]

Hmmmm.

your killing the fluid bed. No way around it. The tubes are build with a stand off to leaves and debri won't clog them. The amount of water in the scoop being pushed against the water of the creek is more than enough to do it's thing. The trap is as fluid as it needs to be.

All that water wants to go somewhere. It does just fine trying to get through the tubes as it is made.(could be better)

With one pipe at 1/2 inch you are getting very little pressure.if any

Ditch the pipe and it's associated blockage. the legs and feed stratification deck are helpful.

 

[et1955]

A good source for 1/4in. abs sheets is on ebay, a 2ft x 4ft sheet is 58$

 

[FFFPatriot]

Hmmmm.

your killing the fluid bed. No way around it. The tubes are build with a stand off to leaves and debri won't clog them. The amount of water in the scoop being pushed against the water of the creek is more than enough to do it's thing. The trap is as fluid as it needs to be.

All that water wants to go somewhere. It does just fine trying to get through the tubes as it is made.(could be better)

With one pipe at 1/2 inch you are getting very little pressure.if any

Ditch the pipe and it's associated blockage. the legs and feed stratification deck are helpful.

I've used this set up on just the Bazooka alone for the past few years and it works just fine. I have actually had more fine gold in my clean outs using this funnel set up than i did without it. The other purpose of the shut off valve on her is to run my small Shur-Flo 12v pump to it, incase I wanted to set up a recirculating system and run material in my yard with a crash box set up.

 

[FFFPatriot]

She sure is sumpthin.

Let us know how she works out for ya.
The results of your field test should be interesting.



Go for the Gold
GG~

Yes sir, I sure will in a few weeks!

 

[Goldwasher]

I've used this set up on just the Bazooka alone for the past few years and it works just fine. I have actually had more fine gold in my clean outs using this funnel set up than i did without it. The other purpose of the shut off valve on her is to run my small Shur-Flo 12v pump to it, incase I wanted to set up a recirculating system and run material in my yard with a crash box set up.

Your trap isn't as Fluid as factory in the stream like that.

I don't doubt you got more fines with a longer slick plate. It may be helpful that the trap is less fluid.

90's and bushings and pipe length all create resistance. it is impossible for that set up to have the same flow in the trap as when the trap is just running.

Your results show that it may be a good thing. Or that you have been running more material with more fine gold.

I bet the added length has more to do with it than anything.

 

[russau]

A good source for 1/4in. abs sheets is on ebay, a 2ft x 4ft sheet is 58$

ABS is a LOT cheaper at a plastic sales place, BY FAR!!!!

 

[goldog]

The 1/4 in gets expensive. But not quite that expensive. I have found a wide range of prices. Shipping is also a problem.

 

[63bkpkr]

So Goldwasher,
Do you have the time and inclination to improve on the BGT? Are you able to take that on, building BGT's, and stay sane (assuming you are just a little sane at this time)? Just wondering..................63bkpkr

 

[FFFPatriot]

Your trap isn't as Fluid as factory in the stream like that.

I don't doubt you got more fines with a longer slick plate. It may be helpful that the trap is less fluid.

90's and bushings and pipe length all create resistance. it is impossible for that set up to have the same flow in the trap as when the trap is just running.

Your results show that it may be a good thing. Or that you have been running more material with more fine gold.

I bet the added length has more to do with it than anything.

I haven't put this thing in the water yet. Just the Bazookza itself. The fines are from just the Bazooka with the funnel apparatus that pipes into the tubes. When I first got the Bazooka, I ran it as intended, and at that time I wondered about tiny pebbles going down the intake tubes and the possibility of clogging some of them up, blocking the ability to keep the chamber fluidized. That could be disasterous if that were to happen after a day of feeding it with the trap possibly having a lot of small gold in it, and the incoming water from the trap continuing to wash out a bunch of my hard earned paydirt. I have a small round telescopic mechanic's magnet that had a mirror on it that I would bring with me when I set it up in the creek. I could see the different sized diameter holes in the fluidized tubes. After one of the clean outs that I did, I looked at the tubes, and sure enough, two holes had pebbles in them. I tapped the Bazooka a few times and they popped out where they came in. Some of the buckets I was pouring on the slick plate dumped a little material into the scoop towards the fluid chamber under the slick plate, and that's why I set the funnel intake back a few inches past the rear of the dumping area. I think when they designed the Bazooka, they should have had the fluid pipes protrude about an inch past the front of the chamber with threaded male ends and female end caps that can screw off, allowing you to punch the bore with a nylon bristle brush to dislodge any holes that got clogged.
The conical shape of the flattened out oil funnel should divert and concentrate (a little) more pressurized water into the chamber. You're right about the resistance caused by the 90's, bushings and pipe length, but I'm hoping the funnel should balance things out a bit. I know the fluidizing chamber works in conjunction with the top flow of the stream water entering the trap, creating the suspension and replacing of lighter material with heavies. I just worried about having too much pressurized water entering the funnel, and that's one of the reasons for the valve on the back. And if I ditch the pipe, it would render my addition useless, due to the way I built it. 1x4's going across the width of the inside have a 1-1/4" hole drilled through each one, which won't allow enough water flow to enter into the Bazooka's fluid pipes.

 

[FFFPatriot]

48" x 96" Black; 1/4" Thick
Item #: 45355
Price: $146.24 This is from US Plastic Corp for ABS. They want more than that to ship it. Special freight delivery only. I tried contacting a plastic molding company about 45 mins. from where I live, to see if I could just pick it up, but for some reason they don't respond to the emails that I sent. Plus, wood was a lot cheaper-and forgiving if I made any wrong cuts.

 

[FFFPatriot]

Goldwasher, I just saw that you build and are a rep for Bazookas. Hats off to you, Hoss! Thanks for a very well built product. I can't believe other sluice box manufacturers are still in existance. I think anyone who buys sluiceboxes these days have probably never seen the Bazooka in action. I run my Bazooka cons into my Quicksand concentrator, another fluidizing machine with similiar concepts to the Bazooka.

 

[arizau]

From what I understand the only difference between the 36 and 48" prospector is just that, length....The tubes and the trap are the same size. I am not sure if the additional length of the scoop in the original bazookas adds to the trap performance itself(?). If I wanted a longer slick plate I would just build a longer, detatchable slick plate with sides to attach to the original. The leg supports you show and a rock to weigh it down would keep it in place. It would surely be easier to handle than what you have now. It looks like you have about tripled the length so you have have also tripled the water weight in the scoop compounded by the water flow itself. In other words it is going to difficult to lift it out of the creek and to clean out the trap.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Goldwasher]

So Goldwasher,
Do you have the time and inclination to improve on the BGT? Are you able to take that on, building BGT's, and stay sane (assuming you are just a little sane at this time)? Just wondering..................63bkpkr

No sir I don't. That was Todd's Job. He gave up on that long ago. A bazooka is a nice sluice to have in your clutch. I've been running a sluice as much as possible since October. Being forced into different flow situations and moving large amounts of material.

I was always for knocking down the sizes available to no more than three. I my self have never been in a situation where a mini would have done more for me than a gold pan. Even the sniper under 36" seemed pointless to me.

The texture of the abs does a good job of holding gold for a second grooves would be cool. Knife scratches work.

I would not have been able to run the amount of material over my old 36 pro and recovered the same fines I've been getting with 6 to 9 ft of flat fast sluice over miners moss.

For the ease of carrying less gear to a spot your guaranteed good water. A bazooka is great. Put it on a leg stand in the river and it is great also. I have made mine work many times when I "had" to.

I found my self hiking in with my angus more and more for ease of set up. On our claim I /we just can't get around the ease of use and versatility of a plain old sluice box.

If someone comes up with a good in stream fluid bed that I like I'll buy it, use it and recommend it to others.
I still recommend the 36" 48" prospector as excellent sluices for fast flowing creeks and easy to work rivers. And any size miner if you have the water and access.

Though the fact remains that with a rake or tater fork and a shovel you can run the heck out of a keene and get great results. If your crevicing and sluicing your already hand classifying enough to run through most sluices, without more classifacation into a bucket.

With a bbq grill over a tub, or a milk crate in a tub or the hole you are working in the water you can run quite a bit of material through a regular sluice. Even more so in a drop riffle or stream sluice with Hogmatts.

I didn't change my tune because I left bazooka. I didn't even have a "falling out" I stayed around way longer than I should even.

So, all my sluice comments are based on use and experience.

Having said that. I am in fact working on a sluice. Not, a fluid bed. Once we finish testing I will be sharing more. They will be available by summer.

 

[FFFPatriot]

From what I understand the only difference between the 36 and 48" prospector is just that, length....The tubes and the trap are the same size. I am not sure if the additional length of the scoop in the original bazookas adds to the trap performance itself(?). If I wanted a longer slick plate I would just build a longer, detatchable slick plate with sides to attach to the original. The leg supports you show and a rock to weigh it down would keep it in place. It would surely be easier to handle than what you have now. It looks like you have about tripled the length so you have have also tripled the water weight in the scoop compounded by the water flow itself. In other words it is going to difficult to lift it out of the creek and to clean out the trap.

Good luck with your project.

Thank you.The Bazooka seperates from the extended slickplate that I built easily by the way that I built it. The four eyebolts per side (that are also tie downs that hold the sluice to the frame via rubber bungees) unscrew and the two flat bars come off of the mounted bolts. The long pvc pipe that attaches to the funnel intake is a male end threaded pvc coupler that unscrews from the one attached to the female coupler on the Bazooka. When thats done, you slide the slickplate rearward a few inches on the frame and the Bazooka lifts out for a cleanout, if needed. Before any of this is done for a cleanout, the legs get extended to get the whole thing above the water line, as to not interfere with the gold material inside of the trap. The holes drilled towards the bottom of the slickplace fill with water when lowered into the creek, and will drain the water when lifting it out, inorder to eliminate buoyancy, so I never intended to ever pull the whole thing out as one unit. As I initially explained, the long slickplate will allow more travel time for my material to saturate and break apart, which should bring me more fine gold, of which the area that this thing is going to is extremely rich with. The process of assembling and dis-assembling takes less time than it did for me to type this sentence that I'm typing right now (about 30 seconds, and I know I'm a slow chicken pecking single typing typer!).

 

[Goldwasher]

Goldwasher, I just saw that you build and are a rep for Bazookas. Hats off to you, Hoss! Thanks for a very well built product. I can't believe other sluice box manufacturers are still in existance. I think anyone who buys sluiceboxes these days have probably never seen the Bazooka in action. I run my Bazooka cons into my Quicksand concentrator, another fluidizing machine with similiar concepts to the Bazooka.

used to build left long before the shop shutdown. I don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.

I know you've missed some threads that were removed.

People paid for boxes they never got. You can;t order them anymore. I opened my store as a dealer. Even at that point I wouldn't order because I didn't want to wait. I would have been way down the list of people owed sluice boxes.

I understand what you meant about running it alone now. That funnel is not letting in as much water maybe thats a good thing. How flat do you run your box?

Getting pebbles in your tube would be an issue try not to do that

That is another bazooka issue. What do two people do in a narrow creek. It's like sniping with someone above you clouding up your water. You have to worry about roots and floating debris getting in your scoop and clogging holes coming from the guy above you.

With a tube going to the three tubes your center tube is going to have more flow.

I suspect the difference in the fines recovered has more to do with the dirt than the funnel set up. I could be totally wrong.

The pressure required to equalize force at the open end of a bazooka as in low flow no pressure, is still more pressure and flow than could get through that funnel and pipe. That set up will equalize and allow lass pressure.

As in it is easier for the force of the river to go around that funnel and pipe in the water column than a bazooka set up in a weir or on a stand in flow.


I run pipe when I lose volume. Starting at 3". Even with good drop and distance. When you put a fitting on the output end or heaven forbid a spray bar with 3/8 inch holes in it you lose a lot of flow with minimal pressure gain.

That is going to be super heavy coming out of the water too.

Just some input. By all means do your thing if its working great keep us informed on how it goes.

 

[FFFPatriot]

Sounds like a real s#it storm happened over there . Probably explains how I couldn't purchase the 48" Prospector on their site a few weeks back, which prompted me to build this "FrankenZooka". It's a damn shame when companies put out a good product and the company starts unraveling at the threads due to some people getting greedy,lazy, and or incompetent. Damn shame for the customers. Hope all goes well for you in your future endeavors.
I run my Bazooka at probably 5-10 degrees. I keep a 3 ' level with me in my gear and I'm guessing around an inch at 3' when running my Prospector. When I initially started building the slick plate, I did think about the center pipe having less resistance to the flowing water and it having more water pressure going through it than the other two side pipes. I was gonna set a manifold mockup before hand and check the pressure difference between the center pipe and the two side pipes. I still might do that and maybe change out the two 90 elbows to 45's for less resistance than what it has now. Have to do a trial and error run, with some tweeks here and there as well as a lot more beer drinking to help it along. I was thinking of putting a 3/16" screen over the intake funnel to keep roots and leaf debris out of it, as long as it doesn't impede waterflow by much, if any. As far as taking it out of the water, as I said in my previous post, I'm gonna raise the whole thing up on the legs and get it above the water line in the creek, and take the side brackets off, slide the slickplate back a few inches and take the Bazooka off the frame separate from the slickplate. I've been doing dry run drills in my garage. Of course, it will act a little differently in a cold, fast moving creek, but atleast my muscle memory of the dry runs will kick in. I'm gonna assemble the thing on the stand above the water line and then lower the who thing into the drink.
I appreciate the good information that you've given me on the tube flow. Thank you sir!