Can someone suggest a good system for applying gallon purchased WD-40 (lubricant)?

el padron

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Wow, do you drink it.. one can lasts a lifetime around here.
A quick google of "Reusable paint sprayer bottles" turns up thisl
Amazon.com : 16oz Reusable Refillable Multipurpose Aerosol Spray Bottle and Spray Tip Set : Lawn And Garden Sprayers : Patio, Lawn & Garden
There are a lot of different kinds, just google it.

Well, yeah, I guess I have a relative, high amount of mechanical systems to maintain.
Tractor, generators, chainsaws, fence pullers, bicycles, plumbing rotors, 4 cars, three trucks, Dozens of doors and door locks, cargo container doors and assemblies, Trailers, motorcycles, boat, jet ski, electric gates, unican mechanical security locks, hundreds of hand tools, Supra combo locks, gun safes, file cabinets, etc.....
I've tried a lot of different ones. Nothing quite works. Certainly not as well as the can sprayed applications.
The average store bought generic ones either don't spray very well or spray in huge swaths.
Also the compounds in the lubricant break the cheap seals in the plastic down in very short order.

Edit: Actually the one that you just presented looks like it might do the job, thx.....
 

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Places like Home Depot, Lowe's, and others carry chemically resistant spray bottles that can be used.
WD-40 also sells their own refillable spray bottles on Amazon, EBay, and other on-line stores.

Jeff
 

Thx
 

WD40 is terrible as a lubricant, and as rust prevention. The only thing it's good for is removing stickers!
 

WD40 is terrible as a lubricant, and as rust prevention. The only thing it's good for is removing stickers! I realize this probably doesn't answer your question directly, but my answer is to use a better lubricant so you won't need to buy gallons of it.
 

If you do regular maintenance on multiple machines/systems, how about an insecticide/pesticide sprayer with an adjustable spray nozzle.............fill, pump and go..........good, at least, for outdoor applications............
 

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"PB Blaster;" Besides the penetrant, they now put out an awesome lubricant. Sorry I can't help you with your actual question on the application system. BTW, trivia, FYI... WD-40 = Water Displacement, 40th try.
 

"PB Blaster;" Besides the penetrant, they now put out an awesome lubricant. Sorry I can't help you with your actual question on the application system. BTW, trivia, FYI... WD-40 = Water Displacement, 40th try.
^^^^^^^^^ This is the correct answer. Just sayin
 

WD40 is terrible as a lubricant, and as rust prevention. The only thing it's good for is removing stickers! I realize this probably doesn't answer your question directly, but my answer is to use a better lubricant so you won't need to buy gallons of it.

I beg to differ, sir. I'm a second-generation machinist, and a lifelong mechanic. After I retired from the USAF in '96, I began a career as an industrial machinery mechanic. WD40 is used for a lot of different applications that go against the grain of what we think we know.

As far as a lubricant, well, it simply isn't designed to be used the way most people expect it to be used. Its a light lubricant - about as light as kerosene, with is lighter than 5wt oil. You can't lubricate any ball bearings and expect it to perform, but lubricating a sleeve bearing with tight tolerances, it is great.

WD40 is a jack of all trades and master of none. It is also one of the better rust-preventatives if used correctly. It must be applied and then allowed to dry, and then it does all of the volatile compounds evaporate leaving a waxy film. That film is really great at preventing rust. When we'd have our Christmas break in the shop (2 weeks off), we'd hand out cans of WD40 and all of the machine operators would spray all of the metal surfaces. It simply works.

Also, I would like to add a comment or two about penetrants.

Penetrants are penetrants and all a penetrant is, is a lightweight oil with some surfactants in it to keep the surface tension down. With a low surface tension, any oil will flow into a tight gap between parts. Rust is oxidized steel - obviously - but it is also porous. Any light oil will seep into the porous rust and make it weaker, giving you the ability to break its bond with the application of force. The bottom line here is that anything will work, but some penetrants may take longer than others. I like Kroil, but I don't think its worth the money. A little kerosene and a drop of Dawn will work just as good.

Gosh, I didn't realize I was typing and got carried away. Please forgive if it sounds preachy.
 

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