Dead Excal Battery

slider66

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Detector(s) used
Minelab Equinox 800
Minelab CTX 3030
Garrett AT Pro
Minelab Excalibur 1000 with SEF 10x12 coil
3 Minelab Excalibur II 10 inch
Deus II
EQuinox 900
Manticore
Primary Interest:
Beach & Shallow Water Hunting
I have two excal's. One is for backup which I have not used for sometime. The battery itself was not used much but it did sit. I charged it back up yesterday but it only held a charge for about 20 minutes. i would assume that the battery is finished but I wanted to check to see if anyone out there has a known way to help bring the battery back. Someone told me to put it in the freezer for about 20 minutes and then try to charge it. I would think the waterproof case would crack and it probably would not work anyway. Any ideas or is this impossible and I should just replace it?
 

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I would try one or two more charges. I would not freeze any battery.
Make sure the connections are clean and have a snug fit.
If all fail, I would go for the EX-3000 replacement. I get 45+ hours on one charge.
 

I would try one or two more charges. I would not freeze any battery.
Make sure the connections are clean and have a snug fit.
If all fail, I would go for the EX-3000 replacement. I get 45+ hours on one charge.


Thanks. I have that battery on my main Excal. It works great and your right it goes for days. I love mine.
 

Thanks. I have that battery on my main Excal. It works great and your right it goes for days. I love mine.

Unless you have someone else using your backup at the same time you are using your main detector, why get another rechargeable? Just keep an alkaline pod as a backup and use the RNB EX-3000.
 

You need to apply about 3.9vdc to the dead cell - not the whole battery - just the dead cell. The are like 3 in series. If succesful you need to keep it charged or it will die again.
 

Unless you have someone else using your backup at the same time you are using your main detector, why get another rechargeable? Just keep an alkaline pod as a backup and use the RNB EX-3000.

That’s what I did, when mine wouldn’t hold a charge anymore, I bought the alkaline pod and never looked back. It’s way more convenient, I never have to worry about charging it up, and Duracell’s are getting cheaper all the time. Jmho. Good luck!
 

I had my Ni Cad do the same thing. time for a new one. Also I am not having any luck with their Lithium batterys
 

That’s what I did, when mine wouldn’t hold a charge anymore, I bought the alkaline pod and never looked back. It’s way more convenient, I never have to worry about charging it up, and Duracell’s are getting cheaper all the time. Jmho. Good luck!

Ditto! I use two Alkaline pods now for these very reasons. I have for years now. It only took me about two rechargeable disasters to get over them quickly...:laughing7:
 

Here's a tip.....order an AA cage off of Ebay, you will have to trim them down but they will fit inside the rechargeable pod. These cages are "cheap" and having one around can save your day as AA's can be found most anywhere.
 

I just received a new pod and EX 3000. The pod came with a cage so I have that if for some reason I get jammed up wit the rechargeables
 

You didnt mention...... was it the 700 or 1000 mah battery? I suggest the 3000 as well and rotate them for hunting. I had some lith from another company ..... 1600s, but found the smart charger wasnt very smart. If they dropped below a certain charge it didnt recognize the battery...... so you end up having to use the ML charger just to bring um back. Im at that point it if dont work....... get rid of it and go to something that you know does...... like th 3000.

Let me also ask....... i assume you didnt put it on the machine you used a multi meter to get your results..... otherwise did you try the 3000 on that machine? Cant tell you how many times its been a connection or cable NOT the battery that was the issue.
 

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Dew made a good point, on the power cable that runs between the main pod and the battery pod, look at the pins on the ikelite connector that plugs into the battery, one is guide pin the other two are power pins, each pin is made up of 2 halves, make sure the gap is the same all the way to the tip, the tips get bent together over time and use. When they are bent together you don't get a good connection when you tighten down the locking nun on the ikelite connector.
 

A Q-tip with an anti corrosive in the female plug helps. Occasionally i even take the Ikelite apart to check corrosion on those wires inside. Butter knive works good on those prongs.
 

Output question,

My two Minelab rechargeable NiMH meter at 13.08 and 13.48
The two with Duracell Quantum meter 12.63 and 12.68
The EX-3000 reads at 12.55 ( just got one based on advice above and charged overnight )
Does the variance in voltage output matter as to performance of the detector?
Has anyone pushed the EX-3000 until it was dead, 45 hours?

Tek
 

The detector has a built in voltage regulator, so, actual voltage over the needed internal voltage is unimportant. Once the battery goes below what is needed to run the detector correctly, you get the low battery whistle. I've run mine down to where the detector shuts off many times. Even with the low battery noise, it still seemed to work correctly. I haven't noticed any depth loss or deterioration of any other features up to the detector quitting.
 

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