electrolysis need help!

[olekyground]

Hey friend. I posted a couple days ago a find I found of what appears to be a cow or dog maybe? It's iron and it is rusted bad. I was wandering if anyone could tell me the best electrolysis set up so I can clean away all that funk from bigger objects as well as this one. thanks!!!

 

[BobinSouthVA]

wow big as in full size cow or dog

a few years ago there was a poster on here called conservator I believe that preserved large objects professionally like cannons etc... You may want to start by searching posts by that member.

 

[Dwight S]

Building an electrolysis tank is fairly easy and fairly cheap, if you have your own battery charger/power supply. Do an internet search for more detailed instructions.

Basics:
tank - bucket or storage "tote" big enough for item.
sacrificial rods - I recommend 4 pieces of 18" long rebar from Lowes or Home Depot
wood dowel and chain/wire/clamp (no chrome or copper, steel only) to suspend item to be cleaned.

Mount the rebar in some fashion around the inside permiter of the tank, wire the rebar together in series, from one bar to another.
Use the dowel to center and suspend the chain holding the item to be cleaned, make sure the chain or item doesn't touch the rods.
The item to be cleaned can rest on bottom of tank, just be sure it isn't touching the rods.
Fill the tank with distilled water and 2 cups of Arm & Hammer Laundry soda (sodium carbonate) OR water with a 2 cups of lemon juice and 1/2 cup of salt.
Connect the POSITIVE lead from battery charger to the rebar/sacrifical rods. This is known as the anode and will draw the grime towards it.
Connect the NEGATIVE lead from battery charger to the chain suspending the item. This item is referred to as the cathode.

Once the anode and cathode are in the solution, turn on the battery charger. The lower the amp setting, the longer the process will take.
Do not let the two items touch at any time.
Check the anode every hour. You will notice a metallic buildup and a thick gray liquid on the scrap metal.
DO THIS PROCESS OUTSIDE, WELL VENTILATED, THE RESULTING CHEMICAL REACTION IS HYDROGEN GAS (REMEMBER THE HINDENBURG)

When the cathode is clean, turn off the battery charger and remove the object from the solution. Wash any loose particles off the object and apply your chosen method of rust prevention.

 

[kuger]

wow big as in full size cow or dog

a few years ago there was a poster on here called conservator I believe that preserved large objects professionally like cannons etc... You may want to start by searching posts by that member.

He now has his own site,I think its called Mining corral.com??

 

[TreasurdiggrNY]

Hey friend. I posted a couple days ago a find I found of what appears to be a cow or dog maybe? It's iron and it is rusted bad. I was wandering if anyone could tell me the best electrolysis set up so I can clean away all that funk from bigger objects as well as this one. thanks!!!

To make a setup for smaller objects like your dog tag, buckles and coins:​

[youtube=425,350]lb5-VAoNVd4[/youtube]

To use it:​

[youtube=425,350]-d9ugkIFgdU[/youtube]

Good Luck

 

[U.K. Brian]

Electrolysis isn't the best option for iron.....mechanical methods are best ie a wire brush. You can then follow up with a chemical treatment.

Main problem is chlorides in the object that start to become active directly the iron is removed from the ground. To reduce the chlorides an object should be boiled in a 5% solution of caustic soda dissolved in distilled water. Follow by boiling in just distilled water several times.
Next dry in a warm oven and follow up with a few days in a dry area. If you save those silica gel packs that are often in with cameras and electronic equipment they should be placed around to draw any remaining moisture.

Most chlorides will have been removed but some will have bonded with the metal. A dip in acetone will help with this. Again dry the item and then seal from the air. You could dip in melted microcrystalline wax and or use a conservation grade lacquer.

I've everying from cannons to spear heads treated this way and they hopefully remain protected for years. Use electrolysis on say a cannon ball and it won't be to far down the line thatr it will open up and look like a cauliflower.

If the item is not of real value and has lots of solid metal (test with a magnet) then you could just brush or wirewool then paint with a rust treatment and seal.

 

[BadgerBoy]

Although I respect the science and opinion of the previous poster about not using electrolysis for iron, I use the process regularly and successfully with collectible cast iron, for example, antique frying pans and dutch ovens, etc. as well as other items. The poster suggesting using rebar is correct in that it works, but you can use most any steel that's not galvanized or stainless as an anode, it can be one piece, the flater the better as the more surface area you have the better and in my tank I use an old, plastic cutting board with holes drilled in it to allow water/gunk flow as an insulator between the cathode and anode. Just make sure they don't touch or they'll short out. Keep it simple and you'll be fine. The deal with drawing metal from your iron object, as mentioned by the previous poster, is that if there are pits in the iron that are filled with gunk, the pits will be exposed. As far as removing metal from your object, you have to leave it in there a pretty long time before you start losing material from the object, but it will happen. Just be aware that as soon as you remove the object from the tank it will start to rust. Clean off the solution *(about a hand full of the Arm and Hammer WASHING soda and not baking soda per five gals.) immediately and then apply a rust preventon. Iin the case of my pans and such I "season" them right away but if your not going to eat off it, "cast coat" which is paint for cast iron is good, clear coating with clear sealers is fine, just research how you want to seal your item before you actually clean it so your prepared.