Gold Hog Matting Combo

Huelten

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This post is primarily for Doc from Gold Hog but anyone with knowledge can answer this if you can. I recently bought a section of Razorback and UR for my highbanker. I run a 10x36 sluice. My question is in regard to the best combo and order to run the mats. My thinking, from top to bottom of the sluice, was UR,UR,RB,RB,RB,UR. What are your thoughts on that combination?
 

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Here in Indiana, we have a lot of flour gold, so in my modified Keene A-52 I have 3 pieces of UR under my header box. On top of that is a piece of 3/4" expanded metal, on top of that is a 1/4" punch plate that stands off of the mat about 1/2". Then I finished out the rest with Razorback. This has increased my capture rate by 100% or more. Most of the sand, and gold are in the area under the header box. Hope this helps.
 

This post is primarily for Doc from Gold Hog but anyone with knowledge can answer this if you can. I recently bought a section of Razorback and UR for my highbanker. I run a 10x36 sluice. My question is in regard to the best combo and order to run the mats. My thinking, from top to bottom of the sluice, was UR,UR,RB,RB,RB,UR. What are your thoughts on that combination?

Hi Huelten,
The biggest missing part of questions we get is the type of equipment, GPH, sluice width, etc.
So, I just want to be clear.
You said "sluice" but I need to know if it is a stream sluice, highbanker, etc.
We'll start there.

Thanks
Doc
 

@goldhog I converted my stream sluice into a highbanker. Its a 10 inch wide x 36 inch wide sluice, an old proline one. I have a cheapy starter pump from harbor freight, up to 9500 gph.
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I removed the black rubber strip that was glued on that is showing in the picture and have decreased the downward angle a bit since this picture.
 

I sent you a message. Check your inbox and you might find some of your questions addressed.
 

Looking at your unit and your pump, I'm a bit concern about the amount of water you'll be putting through this unit and the length of travel / exchange.
If you have a 36" sluice, and the water falls "downward", you'll only have about 24 - 26" of area where the water is "moving" and settling and exchange can take place.
When you have some time this week, watch this video.
I really want you to understand the "incremental processing" section.
When we work with commercial ops one of the first thing we do is match the "process rate" of the sluice to the sediment rate. (Feed Rate)
If you don't you'll end up having higher losses of fine gold.
You can have decent results with what you have, but you'll have to tone down the water and keep your feed rates moderate.
If you can do that let me know and I'll work a config for you.
Doc

 

I had always wondered how many inches it takes for the material to actually begin processing after dropping down, nice video it was really informative. Unfortunately for now i'm going to have to work with the 36 inch sluice, though i do have my eyes on a frame from keene that would add 52 inches, but that's not an option for a while. But i do, at some point in the future, want to add AT LEAST 36 more inches. If you could help me out with a configuration for my current set up that would be great. If my questions seem dumb im sorry, im a bit of a newbie and its just me in my area and i have no one to bounce ideas but this forum.
 

I had always wondered how many inches it takes for the material to actually begin processing after dropping down, nice video it was really informative. Unfortunately for now i'm going to have to work with the 36 inch sluice, though i do have my eyes on a frame from keene that would add 52 inches, but that's not an option for a while. But i do, at some point in the future, want to add AT LEAST 36 more inches. If you could help me out with a configuration for my current set up that would be great. If my questions seem dumb im sorry, im a bit of a newbie and its just me in my area and i have no one to bounce ideas but this forum.

They're not "dumb" questions..........
Brain surgeons don't even know how to hold a scalpel when they start in the beginning.
Many miners with years of experience don't understand incremental processing, hydraulic equivalence, etc.
If you can keep your water flow low, maybe with a ball valve, then this will work well.
UR under header box with 1/4" punch plate suspended about 3/4" off the UR.
Creates a "false slick plate" that actually catches gold.
Then put a small dampener mat right there too hanging down.
Then run the new DownDraft mat.
Run at about 5-6% pitch.
I would say 300 - 400 gallons per inch per hour.
So 10" about 4000 gph.
My guess is that your pump will idle about 5000 gph.
Doc
 

Thanks Doc, i haven't been near my computer for a few days so i didn't see this until today. I should be receiving my mats from you guys here on Monday or Tuesday, then i just have to build myself a punch plate and ill follow your configuration advice. Thanks again for the advice, ill post again if i have any questions later on.
 

I would be concern to the length of the sluice. As Doc has said the exchange area is very short. You may want to look into adding another 36" to your sluice. I have a rubber damper installed.

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I would be concern to the length of the sluice. As Doc has said the exchange area is very short. You may want to look into adding another 36" to your sluice.

Yes, I agree, but I'm trying to get him to "tone down" the water and sediment rate (feed rate) very low if he keeps it that short.
3000 gph should be pretty calm and offer a decent settling amount.
Next step is to lengthen a bit.
 

I would love to add another 36 inches, however i am still in college and most of my metal working tools stay back with the parents for now, so building an addition isnt an option. I really didnt want to buy another proline stream sluice because im just going to remove most of the stuff that comes with it. I think my best bet is to find a fabrication shop to see if they can whip together a frame for me. What are your thoughts on my situation?
 

Check with heating and air conditioning shops. All you need is a piece of 18ga aluminum bent up. You should be able to get that for 20 bucks or so. It will be cheaper then a metal shop. Or you want to go on the real cheep, a piece of 18-20 galvanized, Use vinegar to take the oil coating off. Keep in mind galvanized will rust out but will take several years.
 

ext.webpWell took me about an hour and cost me 0 bucks and this is what i came up with. Doesnt look pretty but will serve the same function, took my sluice from 36in to 62. A few bolts here and there, build the legs, and change the paint.
 

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