Button Question

I've heard some guys rub them with vaseline.

DCMatt
 

or miro-crystalline wax (renaissance) Museum standard, it can make it a little shinny but no damage done, it can be taken off by other chemicals if need be, but if you don't mind the shin (minimal & brings out the patination/colour/detail) it's good stuff.
 

thank you

You only need a little & I brought a 200ml tin & its lasted me over 6 years & I have only used just over half. (& given small portions away to friends). So although its pretty expensive, its great value.
 

In general I don't coat my buttons unless the details cannot be read or seen without a coating. The Wax Crusader uses is good if that is the case. Otherwise, I simply clean and display. I would never use oil on a button of any sort, and Wax is much better (and more reversible!) than Vaseline. -Buck
 

Question from a newby. Why do you not use oil or vaseline on old buttons? I would really like to find one someday and want to know what to do (and not do).
 

Question from a newby. Why do you not use oil or vaseline on old buttons? I would really like to find one someday and want to know what to do (and not do).


One of the major collectors I know I believe uses Vaseline so I wouldn't worry too much about it. I think it works and looks fine.

I use 2 different types of wax depending on whether I want it to dry close to as it was before coating, or if I want a shiny finish. On pewter I do a very thin coat of clear lacquer. I also do use vasoline sometimes too.... and all methods greatly depend on the condition of the button. The wrong choice will often make it worse. Except for pewter I don't think much will happen to buttons if you don't coat them, but I do think they look a whole lot better if you do. Buttons with a green patina or no silver or gilt I would be much more likely to leave alone.
 

Question from a newby. Why do you not use oil or vaseline on old buttons? I would really like to find one someday and want to know what to do (and not do).
I don't use oil because it can actually cause a two-piece button to fall apart. It also leaks everywhere, all over your display cases for years. As Iron Patch says, Vaseline is ok, but in my opinion Wax is far better. Take a look in the cleaning and preservation section of the forum for my post "How To Clean Buttons." There are many examples of my methods there. Best Wishes, Buck
 

Question from a newby. Why do you not use oil or vaseline on old buttons? I would really like to find one someday and want to know what to do (and not do).

Its generally to stop it drying out and to make it look better. The wax I suggested also protects the buttons from the oils in your hands. However, most buttons will be fine without it.
Its pewter you need to pay most attention to, & that is a case by case decision & needs something better than wax/oil to stop it breaking up.
 

Renaissance Wax is a great product, and one that I've personally used and recommended for many years. As Crusader said, a little goes a long ways, so a container will do just about all the buttons and other finds a person cares to treat, for quite a few years. Renaissance Wax is a museum quality conservation product, that can be used on a vast number of materials, from metals, to bone, leather, cloth, and even paper. As with any method of course, care and testing should always be exercised, before proceeding with critical items. :icon_thumleft:

The Renaissance Wax will slightly darken the surface on some items when first applied, yet when the micro-crystalline wax dries, the effect is hardly noticeable as most any item will return to the same original color and tone. After the wax dries, it can be left dull, or polished to a high sheen. On excavated buttons, and other brass or copper items, I have found that saving some very dry dirt from the same location as the find (the dirt from inside shotgun shells and rifle casings works well), and then giving the item that was treated with Renaissance Wax a light dusting of dirt, and careful finger rub on the surface, adds great highlighting and presents a pleasing look as though just dug from perfect conditions, (if gold or silver gilt/plate is present, then rubbing is not advised). The fine dirt will polish the high details slightly, reduce any sheen from the wax, and also lighten the recessed areas by adhering there. Clay based dirt works very well for this. With the right technique, of wax and dirt, the details on items will stand out distinctly, providing for a pleasing display.

Renaissance Wax can be found online, with a quick key word search, and ordered from a supplier in USA. The product was developed in Britain, and is manufactured and distributed from a company in London. My supply was purchased from Dennis Blaine, of Cutlery Specialties in Florida.

CC Hunter
 

good old "Johnsons paste wax" will work
 

Renaissance Wax is the safest bet. Other products may contain potentially harmful acids or possibly have adverse affect over time on some material. Renaissance Wax is a product that was specifically developed to be a safe and stable conservation product, for use on a variety of materials. The product even tested well on sealing paper, and I have noted the good results. 8-)

CC Hunter
 

Thanks a lot for the info guys. I always learn something from the forum.
 

Cool stuff, I'll get me some thanks guys. This is way I could stay here all day. HH
 

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