Critique ma sluice

[MrGneissGuy]

Hey guys you may have seen my posts on here about trying to upgrade my portable sluice. Well...it's finally done I think so I thought I'd share. I have razorback mats down the entire length and a 1/2" screen to use as a self-classifier. I'd really prefer for there to be some kind of slick plate at the front, and I'd also prefer if it were longer. However, being only 24" long total there's not much room for play.

 

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[bcfromfl]

Honestly, I'd ditch the expanded metal. You've already proven that your GH mats are capturing well in the top few inches. All the expanded metal is going to do is slow down your flow and processing rate...maybe even jam up your mat where the water and fines pass through at the bottom. (Hard to tell from your photo.) The GH mats have no problems bouncing along larger rocks if you've got the flow dialed in right.

If your flow is too slow, then you'll have to classify, of course. But I think with proper damming, you should be able to create the flow necessary. A leg kit would allow you to place your sluice in deeper, faster water, which might help.

 

[goldog]

Either way. I'd try it both or all three ways. I used the same thing in my sluice (A51) for years. I found a longer piece worked better but since your already short this is better.

Try it with and without to see what works. Or classify first if needed. No matter it'll catch the gold.

 

[MrGneissGuy]

Ya the expanded metal is removable or will be soon, so I'll report back after I test. I've had a hell of a time classifying so I thought I'd try it to increase production. It's generally pretty dry material that I've been encountering as well so I was hoping to have it above the water line. I thought I could put a little hinge on the side to throw the rocks to the side instead of having them roll in front. If it were a hibanker it would probably work.

 

[Reed Lukens]

Lay the expanded the other way so that it fits entirely across the top of the box. This way you can smack it with your shovel, toss some water on it, and if you put a wire or 2 on one side, you can smack it up with your shovel to send the cobbles flying off. The screen will work good in slow flowing water.

 

[bcfromfl]

I've had a hell of a time classifying so I thought I'd try it to increase production. It's generally pretty dry material that I've been encountering as well so I was hoping to have it above the water line.

Your solution to processing dry material is to put water in your bucket at your worksite. As you dump your shovelfuls into the bucket, wash off the bigger cobbles by rubbing with your hand, and toss them. I've watched videos of guys feeding dry material into their sluices, but you don't want to do that if you've got a lot of fines. You can get away with putting dry material into a sluice with a longer box -- say four feet or longer.

It's going to be heavier, for sure, to carry to your sluice, but the soaking in the water for a few minutes should loosen the lighter particles from the gold, and insure you're capturing the fines that may float off because they're stuck to clay. Pour off the excess water at your worksite, and refill (half full) at the sluice when you're done.

So many of your issues will be resolved with higher water flow through your box. That should be your main focus. Since your box is short, make sure you're feeding right at the very top of your flare. One of the weaknesses of your expanded metal screen design is that some material will fall through towards the bottom of the flare, shortening the distance it has to be captured by your mats.