epoxy question

Shortstack

Silver Member
Jan 22, 2007
4,305
416
Detector(s) used
Tesoro Bandido II and DeLeon. also a Detector Pro Headhunter Diver, and a Garrett BFO called The Hunter & a Garrett Ace 250.
Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
If you are serious, here are the steps.

1--clean the surface with a clean cloth wetted with alcohol.

2--take a piece of sandpaper (80 grit to 120 grit) and scuff the surface just enough to knock off the smooth glaze. This will give the surface some "tooth" for the epoxy to grip to.

3--perform step #1 again with another piece of clean cloth and do not touch the surface with your fingers again. Skin oils could affect the bond.

Those are the basic steps. For a clean, even look to the edges of the epoxy, use some common paper masking tape applied to the coil's sides to act as dams to hold the fresh epoxy in place. Do not worry, the epoxy will not stick to the tape. If you use the tape dam step, you can make one application with enough material to give you a 1/4 inch layer of epoxy, which is thick enough. Just before putting on the epoxy, make sure the coil is facing bottom up (obviously) and LEVEL. If it isn't level, the epoxy layer will not be even.

Now, how to apply the epoxy in such a way that you only need to mix one batch and you can get it on fast enough for it to self-level. Start with a relatively slow epoxy. I'd use the 30-minute version. Then:

1--Mix a large enough batch for the job.

2--Pour the mixture into a quart-sized zip lock bag and zip it closed.

3--Use the bag just like a pastry chef uses an icing bag. Cut one corner off of the bag leaving a SMALL opening.

4--Dribble the epoxy onto the coil surface while using slight pressure on the bag and moving it slowly around the coil.

5--Leave the coil alone for 24 hours while it fully sets up.

6--Remove the tape and lightly sand the sharp, raw edges off with a piece of 80 grit sandpaper. Wipe off the sanding dust (DO NOT BREATHE) with a cloth and alcohol.

7--Go find stuff. ;D
 

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