Excalibur II falsing problem in water. Whats normal?

metalhealth

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Aug 6, 2014
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My Excalibur II was purchased new approx 3 months ago. Having never owned or seen an Excalibur detector before this one, I just have some questions about what is normal. I have had the detector in freshwater 3 times and saltwater only once. My first hunt in freshwater I noticed no falsing with sensitivity set at 8 or about 10 oclock. It seemed to work fine. The second time I hunted freshwater, I had to back the sensitivity down to about 5 or around 1 oclock to keep it from falsing. Last week I had it at Hilton Head Island. The beach sand is somewhat dark there, my detector falsed like crazy. The falsing was nearly constant from ankle deep to chest deep. Even with sensitivity turned as far right as it would go, the falsing was pretty much the same. I tried it at full sensitivity, min sensitivity, in between, and auto and same result. It seemed to do just fine on wet and dry sand but went crazy in the water. I checked and reconnected my battery with no noticeable improvement. Took the coil cover off and cleaned everything and even tried hunting with the cover off but didnt seem to help. I googled to see if anyone else had mentioned a problem at Hilton Head thinking maybe it was just the beach. I found a thread where treasure_hunter had been there so I pm'd him. He said no problem he could remember and after helping me troubleshoot some, advised me to turn threshhold down where I couldnt hear the falsing as a last resort. That worked ok but I still got some falsing. There was a trough I could hunt at low tide that had maybe 2 inches of water in it in places. If I just brushed the surface of the water it would false. I had my discriminate set at 1 altho I tried it set higher also with the same result if that matters.

One thing to mention of note, I accidentally bumped my control with my scoop handle and the falsing quit for a while. I was able to turn the sensitivity to 6 or 12 oclock with almost no falsing. And then at some point later the falsing started again. I tried putting my scoop handle close to where the coil and battery wire enter the control and it would signal and the falsing would stop sometimes for a while.

So when I got home, I took it to the lake. I had to hunt in freshwater with sensitivity set on 2 which is about 2 or 3 oclock on the dial to keep it from falsing. When I google this problem, most people have found they have a cracked coil. I have inspected my coil very closely and I cant find a crack anywhere. There really shouldnt be any damage to it. Ive only had it 3 months and never hunted with the cover off and have really babied it since I got it. When I look at the coil, I do notice some places where the coating on the bottom looks like its not filled out to the edge of the coil and there is one suspicious looking little place that I took some pictures of. Having never owned one before, Im not sure how normal this is for the finish on the coil?

Im just wondering how likely it is that the beach caused my detector that much problem. I did see one other hunter there with an excalibur who wasnt hunting in the water. I didnt get to talk to him to see if he had any issues. Targets are so few and far between on that beach tho that he could very well have just considered it not worthwhile to hunt in the water. It wasnt exactly tropical there last weekend either.

Anyway, here are some pictures of my coil. The first one is an example of how the finish they put on the bottom doesnt completely fill out to the edge. The rest are all just different pictures of the same little suspicious place I described. I took several to try to get a decent look at it. Its a very small spot, but hopefully you can see it good enough to offer an opinion. Any other thoughts or advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

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OBN

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Is that separated...hard to tell, but as you described sure sounds like the coil... let it dry out for several days. Then Try it in the dry sand, then take it in the water...
 

bigscoop

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Jun 4, 2010
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Bad coil. I had a brand new one doing the same thing once, got it replaced and no more issues. Yours even looks like a bad coil.
 

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metalhealth

metalhealth

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Is that separated...hard to tell, but as you described sure sounds like the coil... let it dry out for several days. Then Try it in the dry sand, then take it in the water...

Its hard to tell from the picture and with the reflection on the bottom of the coil since its such a small spot. To me, I wouldnt describe it as separation. It almost looks more like a small defect in the application of whatever that rubbery/plastic feeling coating that is applied to the bottom of the coil. I dont know enough about the construction of the coil to know if its possible that the small defect could be allowing water to reach the inside of the coil. Is it normal for that coating on the bottom of the coil to have some small defects in it and to not fill out to all the edges?
 

OBN

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Yes, normal to have defect looking marks but no gaps between the top of the coil frame and the bottom epoxy.


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WaterWalker

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If indeed the area is showing copper wires, the coil is defective.
If there is a crack in the plastic so you can see the wires water will get in and the copper will corrode, the coil is defective.
I would contact your dealer or Minelab ASAP.
 

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metalhealth

metalhealth

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Yes, normal to have defect looking marks but no gaps between the top of the coil frame and the bottom epoxy.


View attachment 1076941

Yes that is how mine looks. Several places around the perimeter, it looks like the epoxy isn't coated completely to the outside perimeter of the coil. It doesn't look damaged or separated, just looks like it was made that way. Everything is black and there are no wires showing that I can tell. It was like that new out of the box. I just assumed it was normal. Are all the wire windings contained within the black hard plastic? I just assumed the epoxy on the bottom was an extra layer of protection. In other words if the epoxy wasn't there at all, would there be exposed wires?
 

bigscoop

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I should add, the bad coil I purchased had no signs of defect at all, looked great, but if it got wet at all it started to chatter. Got it replaced and now my machine is super stable. So they don't have to look bad to be bad.
 

OBN

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I'm with Big Scoop, call and report and get it to them ASAP.

And the epoxy covers the wounded wires. The Excalibur should be stable at the low settings you described

Good Luck and Be Safe
 

rons1947

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I had the same problem,with my Excalibur 2,several times in the past,and every time it was the coil.
 

Sir Gala Clad

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If cars were designed like most metal detectors (hard wired) one would have to ship the car back to the factory every time you did a tune up - this is nonsense.
Think of where the space programs and underwater programs would be if everything was hard wired? Most likely still on the ground!. If they can design and use connectors in such hostile environments it sure can be done for shallow water hunting.

It is true that those detectors would cost a few bucks more to manufacture and the user would have to be more careful in tightening them and making sure that sand does not get in the threads but think how easy it would be to fault isolate by changing search coils or head phones, as well as to optimize your detector for local beach conditions.

Thank you for describing why I dislike hard wired detectors being that the detector has to be sent back to the factory, when under warranty just to determine if there really is a problem. It would be much better to send back the defective component, than not to able to detect for several days to weeks waiting for repair.

If connectors were used it would be a simple matter to change the coil, if the new coil worked and the old one would not it is a no brainer that the old one is broken/defective/kaput/whatever all you need to know is that it does not work and it is simple and easy by substituting coils.

The down side is that it would cost a few more bucks to manufacture a metal detector, and more maintenance and care would be required of the user, but the gained.

An alternative is to own multiple detectors, each with a different coil sized hardwared.
This works especially well when you live close to the beach you hunt, or do not have a theft problem are are able to take both with you.
This approach is as good and maybe even better as you do not have waste time connecting and reconnecting search coils to optimize your detector for the specific conditions on the beach you are hunting, as all you have to do is grab the detector that is best to go and detect with it.

In answer to your question, the only way you will know for sure if it is a coil problem, which it most likely is, is to send it back, if underwarranty -just send it back the sooner you do this the sooner you will get it back!
 

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metalhealth

metalhealth

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thanks everyone for the input. ill call tomorrow and hopefully they can get me straightened out. thanks to treasure_hunter also for helping me salvage my hunt at the beach. maybe ill be able to return the favors some day. thanks again!
 

penzfan

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Where was the unit purchased?
 

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metalhealth

metalhealth

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purchased online from a minelab dealer. i registered it for the warranty so should be good to go. I would take it to a dealer to look at it but the closest one is about 3 hours away.
 

penzfan

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purchased online from a minelab dealer. i registered it for the warranty so should be good to go. I would take it to a dealer to look at it but the closest one is about 3 hours away.
Cool cause there are many counterfeit units from PRC out there these days. Give Nadia @ Minelab a call @ (630)401-8159 and she should be able to assist you if the dealer is not an option for you. GL
 

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metalhealth

metalhealth

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yes it was a very reputable dealer who is on all these forums. I dont fault the dealer at all tho and I received awesome service. Looking at the coil I can see no separation. other than the one small suspicious defect looking place, the only thing i notice is the epoxy doesnt completely reach the edge of the bottom of the coil in some places. It looks completely bonded everywhere so it may not even be that at all. Surely nothing I would say would be obvious at the time of sale so no fault to the dealer.
 

Sir Gala Clad

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purchased online from a minelab dealer. i registered it for the warranty so should be good to go. I would take it to a dealer to look at it but the closest one is about 3 hours away.

I would contact the closest authorized Service Center for Minelab and talk to the certified technician who will do the repair if possible.
This will save you time and help keep postage costs low. Except for Kellyco, which has an authorized service center most dealers are just distributers who you buy from. IIRC the other repair center, i know of is in Chicago.
 

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metalhealth

metalhealth

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yes i am going to call minelab for the service. i really meant i would just take it to a dealer if i had one nearby who could look at my coil and offer an opinion on it since mine is the only one ive ever seen.
 

Sir Gala Clad

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yes i am going to call minelab for the service. i really meant i would just take it to a dealer if i had one nearby who could look at my coil and offer an opinion on it since mine is the only one ive ever seen.

Understand.
But what I a trying to convey, is that it does not matter who looks at your coil.
All it takes is a pinpoint hole to ruin it, which it is doubtful anyone would see.'
If I understand it correctly all repairs are pressured tested at the service center before thay are returned.
If it develops a leak in salt water, that salt water could wick into the CPU and destroy your detector!

Keep it simple: Dealers Deal, Technicians Repair
 

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metalhealth

metalhealth

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its shippd to kellyco per minelab service. will let u know the outcome.
 

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