UPDATE – Early 1600s Sword Basket Hilt Conservation Completed

Bill D. (VA)

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Oct 7, 2008
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Ever since I recovered this incredibly unique artifact about 10 days ago, I’ve expended a tremendous amount of time and effort contemplating the best methods for cleaning and preserving the hilt. As I posted earlier, my first inclination was to use electrolysis as I’m quite experienced using this technique and have had good success with it. Usually an iron artifact of this size will take at least several days to clean, sometimes much longer. But for some reason after just 18 hours in the tank the process had accelerated to the point that I was close to taking some of the base metal off. So I quickly had to shut that down, and look for a new approach that would be appropriate for this special find.

After spending hours on the web reading about various techniques and treatments, and corresponding with a number of knowledgeable folks, I finally decided to pursue the lye/zinc method which seems to be quite popular these days. However, my last discussion with a well-known relic hunter with 40+ years of experience cleaning a wide range of iron artifacts resulted in another change of direction. Since the hilt is made of wrought iron and has begun to split into its composite layers in some spots, I wouldn't be able to completely flush the lye out which could cause some issues down the road. And any further electrolysis was also out of the question so I was forced to follow a new strategy.

So after pulling it out from its temporary home in a bucket of rainwater, I carefully used a dental pic and dremel tool to remove as much of the remaining loose corrosion as possible without damaging the hilt. But due to its fragile nature I didn't make much progress with that. Then I immersed it in alcohol overnight to remove all the moisture, dried it with a soft cloth, followed by liberally spraying it with WD-40 to dissolve as much of the residual rust and orange haze as possible. Then after rubbing it in with a cloth and letting it air dry a bit, I started applying polyurethane and sprayed on 4 coats, and allowed a couple hours of drying between each. Might not be a perfect job, but this is about the best I can do under the circumstances of dealing with a very old and fragile artifact. I guess time will tell how good a job I did. Regardless, it will certainly take up a position of prominence in one of my display cases.

The series of pics below take it from immediately after recovery, to after an initial rinse, and finally after the 4 coats of polyurethane. And the last 2 pics are of a sword recovered at Jamestown a few years ago. Although not an exact match, mine is very similar and obviously from the same period. It’s interesting to note that in the Jamestown sword the blade tapers down before entering the hilt which explains why the rectangular slot in mine is smaller than might be expected.

Hopefully since this is an update of a recent recovery, the moderator allow this post to remain on this forum for a couple of days before moving it to the restoration forum.
 

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Upvote 18

Ahab8

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Bill you did a fantastic on that piece. It obviously was a fragile object due to the manner of its construction. I think that will display great and don't believe you could have asked for much more. Ya know I'm happy it was you that found that incredible hilt. I know you respect that in a way that many wouldn't and really did your homework on the restoration. It would have been a shame if somebody with less experience and respect for history had recovered that
 

Auriemma

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Nice find... Excellent save!
 

EasternShoreMetal

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Hey Bill, it looks like it turned out pretty darn good. I have not read all the posts you got on this object. In your research, or from those knowledgeable on Tnet, did you find or consider navel Jelly ?
Back in my mechanics days, we used Navel Jelly, especially with restored boat metal parts (iron) because it stops all further oxidation from iron that has rusted. You remove as much rust as you can, then apply the Jelly. It's one drawback for relics, is that it turns them absolutely black. But it's reputation for stopping all rust was pretty reliable in those days. I'm sure you probably have, but since I didn't see it in your posts, I was just wondering. If this has already been covered - sorry.
 

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Bill D. (VA)

Bill D. (VA)

Silver Member
Oct 7, 2008
4,711
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SE Virginia
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🏆 Honorable Mentions:
2
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F75 SE (land); CZ-21 (saltwater)
Primary Interest:
Other
Hey Bill, it looks like it turned out pretty darn good. I have not read all the posts you got on this object. In your research, or from those knowledgeable on Tnet, did you find or consider navel Jelly ?
Back in my mechanics days, we used Navel Jelly, especially with restored boat metal parts (iron) because it stops all further oxidation from iron that has rusted. You remove as much rust as you can, then apply the Jelly. It's one drawback for relics, is that it turns them absolutely black. But it's reputation for stopping all rust was pretty reliable in those days. I'm sure you probably have, but since I didn't see it in your posts, I was just wondering. If this has already been covered - sorry.

Chris - I've used aluminum jelly on small items like gilted buttons, but never tried it on large iron. I'd imagine that could get cost prohibitive pretty quick too.
 

BuckleBoy

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I am still in awe of this relic.
 

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