Any Auto Mechanics On Here

[WV Hillbilly]

Could use a little friendly help .

 

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[Gypsy Heart]

Hey....me too....I have a stick shift problem with my pickup....just had the master cylinder replaced .....now two weeks later....it doesnt want to shift again.....have to stop the truck,turn off to get it into gear.....any ideas

 

[COUNTRY GIRL]

Hey Gypsy, what is the age of the truck? If it has a brake shift interlock (ie: Can't shift it out of park or it won't start without the "BRAKE" engaged) It could be the switch. Depending on the make it could be mechanical or electrical. If it's a Ford and your fuse blows for the brake lights the interlock won't work.

So to both of you....a little more info and there are lots of folks that can help.

 

[nhbenz]

WV, I'd be glad to help (former ASE Certified Mater Auto Technician), which I mention just to reassure you, rather than to brag. What's the trouble and what are you driving?
Gypsy do you mean the clutch master cylinder? The brake master cylinder could not cause this. But I won't ramble until I know the make, model and year of your truck. I seem to remember it was an oldie, which I like.

 

[Gypsy Heart]

Its Ford 150 F Series
1994

clutch master cylinder

It will start....shift to 1st....then when I try to shift to 2nd...it wont go.....I have to then shut off the truck to get it back into a gear....

 

[COUNTRY GIRL]

I'm not really rambling . Gypsy do you have brake lights? If not check the fuse for the brake lights, dollar fix.

 

[nhbenz]

Optimistically, the clutch hydraulic line could just needs to be bled (get air out of the lines). Oh, you have checked the clutch fluid level, right? Next in line of hopeful solutions would be the slave cylinder. This is what's activated by the master cylinder via the fluid its pushing. Luckily their pretty cheap (under $100) and fairly easy to change (so if you have to pay someone to do labor won't be too bad. Worst case scenario would be that you might need a new clutch.

 

[Gypsy Heart]

Yes...I do have brake lights....wish that it was that easy....I bled the clutch fluid yesterday and pumped it back up...but it still didnt do any good....when I just checked brake lights....the clutch went down and didnt return to normal piosition even after pumping....had to pull it back up by hand

 

[WV Hillbilly]

My problem is with the speedometer or speed sensor on a 1997 Nissan Pickup . The speedometer quit working all at once . The speed sensor costs well over $100.00 & I want to be sure that is the problem before I buy one . I have electrical meters & know how to use them . On the nissan the sensor is on the transfer case & has two wires connected to it . Can I check it for ohms , voltage , ect ? Thanks

 

[nhbenz]

Gypsy, if you bled the clutch correctly and that just happened I'm fairly sure you need a slave cylinder. (and luckily not a clutch). Was it running at the time? And you bled at the slave cylinder, right? (under the truck)

 

[nhbenz]

WV, do you have cruise control? Does it work? And how about your odometer, does it work? Also, do you mean that the needle doesn't move at all or does it do wacky things on occasion?

 

[WV Hillbilly]

Yes I have cruise control & it worked but I haven't used it since the speedometer quit working so I
don't know if it still works or not . The speedometer doesn't do anything at all & the odemeter isn't
working either . The tach works fine though .

 

[Gypsy Heart]

Gypsy, if you bled the clutch correctly and that just happened I'm fairly sure you need a slave cylinder. (and luckily not a clutch). Was it running at the time? And you bled at the slave cylinder, right? (under the truck)

Yes I did ,underneath

How much is a slave cylinder going to run me?

 

[WV Hillbilly]

Gypsy

I looked at NAPA online & slave cylinders run from $51.99-$74.99 depending on what size engine
you have & wheather you have a 4 or 5 speed transmission . It might cost less at Advance Auto Parts,
Autozone , ect . Did I totally confuse you with the PM ?

 

[arkhunter]

Yes...I do have brake lights....wish that it was that easy....I bled the clutch fluid yesterday and pumped it back up...but it still didnt do any good....when I just checked brake lights....the clutch went down and didnt return to normal piosition even after pumping....had to pull it back up by hand

there is more to this one......did you say it went down by itself?.....and...there are NO leaks around the slave cylinder....if so....you have a bad master cylinder(leaking inside)....i know its new..but it happens....let us know any other facts on this

john

 

[Gypsy Heart]

Gypsy

I looked at NAPA online & slave cylinders run from $51.99-$74.99 depending on what size engine
you have & wheather you have a 4 or 5 speed transmission . It might cost less at Advance Auto Parts,
Autozone , ect . Did I totally confuse you with the PM ?

Ok...I will do what you suggested in the morning....going to take it in tomorrow so hoping it wont cost that much with labor.....Thanks everyone ....pretty sure its the slave cylinder

 

[arkhunter]

Gypsy

I looked at NAPA online & slave cylinders run from $51.99-$74.99 depending on what size engine
you have & wheather you have a 4 or 5 speed transmission . It might cost less at Advance Auto Parts,
Autozone , ect . Did I totally confuse you with the PM ?

Ok...I will fdo wehat you suggested in the morning....going to take it in tomorrow so hoping it wont cost that much with labor.....Thanks everyone ....pretty sure its the slave cylinder

slave cylinder wont let the pedal go down by itself......unless it is leaking fluid.

 

[zlathim]

and fairly easy to change (so if you have to pay someone to do labor won't be too bad.

Not too fast with the "easy to change" idea. Those Fords used a slave cylinder shaped like a doughnut. The shape isn't what is important, but the fact that the transmission input shaft passes through the hole is significant. You have to remove the entir trans in order to swap it out.

Your going to be looking at a few hundred dollars in labor (unless it is a 4x4 then it will be more) and they will probably tell you that you might as well install a new clutch set while the tranny is out.

 

[Starbuck]

I agree the problem with the Ford truck and shifting could very well be the things mentioned, air trapped in the lines or slave cylinder, the slave cylinder itself could be at fault. I also agree that it may not be so simple of a fix if you are not capable of doing it yourself and I would not recommend using your truck as a learning experience unless you have someone who is qualified to help you perform the task. Now just for a second I would like to back up to the beginning....why did the clutch master cylinder get replaced? If you try to bleed the clutch master like you did a pedal that sticks at the bottom is a pretty good indication that there is air trapped in the system. You may have to do a lot of bleeding to get all of the air out. Many times the rapid pumping done during bleeding a clutch aerates the fluid (tiny bubbles frothed in the fluid) you proceed and get a nice firm pedal and think the job is done and all is well, 20 to 30 minutes later those tiny air bubbles have all joined together to form on big compressible air pocket and the clutch is back to it's old tricks with poor or no shifting. The Fords are rather difficult to see the action of the clutch slave cylinder but it can be viewed with the rubber inspection plug removed a small mechanics mirror and a good flashlight. Do a little diagnosis and see if when the clutch is being depressed that the slave cylinder moves in far enough to disengage the clutch by watching the action while an assistant pushes the clutch pedal. You should be able to see the shiny or worn area that the slave cylinder has been sliding back and forth on if it is not going full travel suspect air or in some cases the aftermarket clutch master cylinder may have an adjustable rod on the pedal so the part will service several different year trucks. The instructions in the box will usually mention this but usually nobody reads them. If the clutch slave cylinder is moving the full distance you have a dragging or worn out clutch and the transmission will have to be removed and the clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder replaced, also REPLACE or RESURFACE THE FLYWHEEL!!
I hope this helps - Starbuck

 

[Starbuck]

The Nissan speed sensor can be tested two ways. A resistance test will only check the integrity of the pickup coil portion and wire lead of the sensor but that does need to be checked if it is "OL" or very high resistance the sensor is faulty. If the resistance is in specification you will need to support the vehicle safely on a lift or with safety stands NEVER USE A FLOOR JACK By ITSELF! With the vehicle safely raised remove the wire connector from the speed sensor and set your meter (preferably auto ranging) to the AC volts scale and carefully probe the two terminals on the sensor forcing the leads into the sensor or connector can deform the terminals and create more problems, with the meter correctly connected start the vehicle and put it into gear, remove your foot from the brake and allow the wheels to turn and read the voltage output on the meter it should rise as the speed increases if it doesn't you have a defective sensor. If it does suspect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or buffer module the buffer converts the AC voltage into a digital DC signal that the computer can use.
I hope this helps. - Starbuck