anyone with experience in varnishing ? (too visible brush strokes)

[hvacker]

Ok... here is my dealio with SS...

Let me paint a picture for yas...

1.2 million dollar boat...

Fiberglass / gel coat...

Has teak bow rail from stern to bow...

Rail done with regular steel wool...

Guy shows up next morning to see his 1.2 million dollar boat COVERED with 1.2 million RUST dots... little squigs and lines.

Overnight... in salt and morn dew.

Guess what...

Now your are either scrubbing for days trying to remove every rust spot... your fired... and you might be paying thousands in time and gelcoat.

So...

See the light ?

I'm scratching my head to remember. Was it teak in particular that had a reaction to regular steel wool or was it more general.
I know teak absorbs silicon from the soil. Probably part of a process like petrifaction happened in the turning wood into stone.
Teak can be tougher on power tools because of silicon. The guy on the show Yankee Workshop turned me on to the silicon attribute
teak has when he built a teak bench.
Rust can be used to stain wood. Soak a wool pad in some water and you will get a rather nice color if your heading toward a cherry
look. I believe steel wool leaves stuff behind in the wood grain. I've seen it when I've done a wipe down. But at least with teak I would be careful using regular steel wool.

AARC is the gel cote you use a poly product? I've only used Gel once. I have seen it used for projects on woodworking shows and they seem to like the way it works.

 

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[BillA]

carry on with the discussion(s) guys, its all informative

this post is for the uninformed (and those really resistant to getting the message)

contamination takes several forms and must be addressed at the onset
- do not paint from the container even if diluted appropriately
- use a new container for each session
- filter the varnish as it is poured into the painting container
- if the brush dries out, also 'cleaned', pitch it

my progress report is mixed at best, still seeing brush stroke effects
am good at sanding

 

[BillA]

a closing comment
I paid a "varnicero" (I suspect a made-up word, varnisher) $50 to shoot the boards, totally worth it



the reflection of the vegetation can be seen

conclusion: large flat areas should be sprayed (just what all told me)

 

[ARC]

Looks good.

 

[ARC]

I'm scratching my head to remember. Was it teak in particular that had a reaction to regular steel wool or was it more general.
I know teak absorbs silicon from the soil. Probably part of a process like petrifaction happened in the turning wood into stone.
Teak can be tougher on power tools because of silicon. The guy on the show Yankee Workshop turned me on to the silicon attribute
teak has when he built a teak bench.
Rust can be used to stain wood. Soak a wool pad in some water and you will get a rather nice color if your heading toward a cherry
look. I believe steel wool leaves stuff behind in the wood grain. I've seen it when I've done a wipe down. But at least with teak I would be careful using regular steel wool.

AARC is the gel cote you use a poly product? I've only used Gel once. I have seen it used for projects on woodworking shows and they seem to like the way it works.

Sorry about response time... lost this thread...

I don't Gel Coat... never did or have.

I was a Varnish primarily.

 

[BillA]

ARC - I was critized for not using sealer (flakes of cellulose nitrate in the cheapest varnish)
this fellow has seen peeps use 3-5 coats, sanded down, of sealer; and then the varnish sequence

do others use sealer for the 'brilliance' ?

edit: well the varnish is drying (losing 50% of its volume) so the boards' imperfections are becoming ever more apparent, makes me want to put on 3-4 more coats
I intend to continue varnishing (entire house needs it) so should I buy a small/cheap compressor and spray gun ?
perhaps less than $200 ? down here