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AT pro vs AT gold , whats the diff???

robbor

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XLT, GM3, GM4b
Im in the market for a new machine. Gold prospecting is my passion, coins is my hobbie.
What the diff between the 2? I didnt think ther was much diff in frequency. like the old 50-70K hertz gold machines
 
one you manually ground balance and it has a couple of khz more
nothen to get exited over....it's still only a coin finder like the tesoro lobo super trax
hope that helps stick with it
it pays out....



liftloop
 
I checked both out before I bought the AT pro--only difference I saw was that the pro is a 15K frequency and the gold is an 18. other than a few minor screen face changes nothing really stands out. Ive heard the gold is very good at finding the smallest of nuggets and dust, havent tried it myself but going by what club members have said about theirs and watching them used on youtube with a sniper coil they must be good.
 
The AT Pro lacks a true threshold based all metal mode and so is less suitable for nugget detecting, although it can and will find gold nuggets. no iron audio can be use in salt water
AT Gold runs at a hotter 18 kHz and has a true threshold based all metal mode, plus it has the iron audio, can't be used in salt water
 
Skip, you have me a bit confused.. ATP has iron audio just like the gold, it has an all metal mode called zero mode and as I took time to go to the Garrett site and compare the two I believe my earlier statement to still be true. A difference of about 3 khz is mainly it.

Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk
 
I am no expert but from reading what Garrett has available it looks like they are the same but the Gold version has extra electronic features that enhance the detector for searching Gold. As for giving it a edge to hunt Gold, I'd sat that depends on the user and that dedication she or he has to it.

The coils' fit of the electronic "Q" factor of Electronic circuit inside the Dector housing is what makes the real difference I am told.

The Proper balance of electronic parts used betwen the Coil belanced against the sending and recieving resistance of the circuit used: ie: ( The Inductance and capatance of the coils balance against the resistance of the electronic sending and reciving circuit that makes the less internal resistance to the detected signal.

That makes it a balanced system or "Q" point as engineers say. They try to find the least resistance point that gives the best transfer of signals between the unit and coil and thus making for a clearer path for a signal. From there companies add damper or exciter circuits, to increase and or dull down the signal affects depending on conditions and outside factors

Each of the systems use as diferent approaches to features, depending on the quality of the components they used to produce them- The Bells and Whistles or the Bling that makes the costs rise, dont be the best quality so be carefull.

Like i said, I am no self proclaimed expert. But I have come to know that price is "not" a good indicator has to how good the dector is! Nor is how many extra buttons they have, or how fancy a read-out it has. if the Q or balance is poor, the extra features do not do much to improve the syatem.

So...Try them out first-then buy one, is the best advice I think. We will find a Lot of hype from makers, and not much truth is ramped in the advertising.

So- try them first- rent or burrow one if you can- then drop good monies for one. Being in a Detector Club can assist in that also.
 

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