Building question / How too?

[Limitool]

Studs 24" on center Didn't know that was still allowed anywhere - except places like Hawaii. 16" OC is the norm.

"To now extend the existing roof edge another 10" would be real hard. I'd have to add additions metal under the existing roof and build a 10" box structure the entire 60' length and attach...?"
Not sure, as you say this isn't a pole building. ...At least they're called pole buildings in this neck of the woods. A pole building has a primary structure made up of heavier wood timbers (but not post & beam construction), then has 2x4's for attaching metal siding to, adding a door or window, etc. However, you say this isn't a pole building, so am not sure what to say next.

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Whether your construction is pole-building or not, do you have metal siding? It seems that you do, so I'll continue:

To do what you're wanting to do, dropping down some from the original eave of the building, there is no need to cut into the existing siding of the building. Follow these steps:

1) Build your lean-to onto the side of your building to whatever specs you desire. Roof and completely finish the project.

2) Get up on the lean-to roof and apply flashing the entire length of the lean-to. This flashing needs to extend 6" or more up the side of the main building, and AT LEAST 12" down the roof of the lean-to. You might can get by with less if that side of the lean-to is heavily with trees (preferably evergreens) to prevent wind from driving rain/snow up under the flashing.

3) Cut and apply another layer of metal siding over the main building's siding, on top of the flashing and to up under the eave of the main building. ...Remember to remove any original screws first as they will prevent the 2nd layer of metal from sitting flat on the first layer.

4. There are now open gaps along the length of the flashing where it sits on the lean-to roofing (assuming that roof is metal). There is a foam product that can be purchased that is form-fitted to this shape. Before attaching the lower edge of the flashing, place this foam barrier in place and then screw the flashing in place. PLEASE use appropriate screws instead of nails. Nails have a way of loosening over time, mostly due to the lumber drying out and shrinking, which can render the rubber washer useless.

Ok, there it is. No matter what kind of building you have, this "should" provide you a proper fix. No cutting, no caulk, no voided warranties, and most importantly, no leaks!!

Forgot to mention: You'll have to remove the corner pieces for the construction, then cut to length and replace as necessary. Also, going this route allows ALL of your lean-to construction components to be covered and weather-tight once the job is completed.

KCM.... That idea of just overlapping the flashing on the wall with another layer of proper size metal is all I needed to hear!!!!!!!!!!!!! While the flashing will prevent the new sheet from fitting flat exactly over the 1st. it will be very close and will look fine. This new row of metal will only be between 18" - 23" tall. I have enough left also to do this 60' wall also. Exterior is 100% wrapped with metal and proper screws were utilized.

I built the building on a a 4" concrete pad with 12" footers below all walls. An extra 8' x 60' concrete was left to build the lean to structure upon. 2x4 construction throughout with 3 entry doors, 4 windows and a 16' x 8' overhead door. Building was built on 24" centers with 10" headers above all doors and windows with 2 x 12's used above the 16' door. The walls are insulated and covered with 1/2" OSB. The 10' ceiling is covered in 1/4" OSB and will soon be filled with 10" of blown fiberglass insulation. Passed final electrical inspection last week and got "real" power hooked up Mon. Working on floor, ceiling, window and door molding now. Then I start setting up the machinery and my work islands.

But thank you for the help.... Brad

 

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[Tnmountains]

Hope this is a standing seam metal.
I am assuming the side of your 10' high walls are corrugated or say run flat with standing seams? If you were to cut off a sheet or two with air shears say 24'' long and flexed in between the existing shed roof and the side wall. The trick is to use the 5' sections of paneling(assume its about 5' In width)
curl it and rivet it using a butyl rubber between existing surfaces. Do a short section at a time have the same pattern line up with ribs to flex. Pop lines to keep it straight.
Other option is to cut a cap out of the same material and trim out and back on the depth of the rib and install. Again use butyl rubber and backer rod as needed.
Hope this helps and good luck!
P,s don't forget to seal the ends where there is a slight opening. Butyl rubber and a trimmed piece of metal will hold for years.
Sometimes i will just by a roll of same color in a light wight flashing trace pattern air shear install and again the dreaded butyl rubber

24" centers is the norm with a horz 1x lath on horizontal spacing at 24" so basically you have a 2x2 square between all fasteners. for the sheathing to attach to off a pole barn... or building and more is a waste of material. I suggest hurricane straps as they are cheap on the roof rafters and lags for vertical support post. Use the straps on your cap plate on edge.
Good night!

 

[Limitool]

Hope this is a standing seam metal.
I am assuming the side of your 10' high walls are corrugated or say run flat with standing seams? If you were to cut off a sheet or two with air shears say 24'' long and flexed in between the existing shed roof and the side wall. The trick is to use the 5' sections of paneling(assume its about 5' In width)
curl it and rivet it using a butyl rubber between existing surfaces. Do a short section at a time have the same pattern line up with ribs to flex. Pop lines to keep it straight.
Other option is to cut a cap out of the same material and trim out and back on the depth of the rib and install. Again use butyl rubber and backer rod as needed.
Hope this helps and good luck!
P,s don't forget to seal the ends where there is a slight opening. Butyl rubber and a trimmed piece of metal will hold for years.
Sometimes i will just by a roll of same color in a light wight flashing trace pattern air shear install and again the dreaded butyl rubber

24" centers is the norm with a horz 1x lath on horizontal spacing at 24" so basically you have a 2x2 square between all fasteners. for the sheathing to attach to off a pole barn... or building and more is a waste of material. I suggest hurricane straps as they are cheap on the roof rafters and lags for vertical support post. Use the straps on your cap plate on edge.
Good night!

Thanks guy.... yes I utilized hurricane straps on both 60' walls. 12' lengths x 10' tall walls were built and then I utilized concrete screws into the pad to secure the walls to foundation. I've learned a LOT building this project. It's not close to my 1st building but my first attaching a metal lean to roof to a a metal sided building.... Realized the problem within 1 minute of figuring out the material for the lean to structure required.

 

[Peyton Manning]

grace iceshield, you can mold it to fit ( when it's warm)

 

[Nitric]

Not "Sticking" up for the stuff, but if where your cleaning ever had a silicone product on it, it never will. If it's the aluminum your talking about, you'd have to use steel wool or sandpaper to be sure to get under the silicone. Just my 2 cents.

I believe that is the same stuff that was used on cars for years as a stone guard. We use to spray the same stuff on rockers. It looks identical, just a different name and a lot cheaper. Spays the same, and even has the same look. Like a rubberized paintable undercoating


Ohh and limitool, I don't know how to build stuff the right way. I'd have a mess! Cardboard and tar?Blue tarp(not the cheap kind either!) and duct tape? jkg

 

[Tnmountains]

Yep i have built to many buildings to remember them all. Sounds like you have a nice new play /work area.

 

[Limitool]

Yep i have built to many buildings to remember them all. Sounds like you have a nice new play /work area.

Yea I do guy.... I have a lot of machinery and tools and will have a lot of room to spread out now. Can't wait to get the floor molding down so I can start installing the old / new floor cabinets against walls and organizing the tools. I cut 300' of floor, ceiling, window and door molding today. I took 2x4x8's, butterflied them and will start painting them tomorrow. Very cheap molding for a wood-shop but totally appropriate. A -$3.00 2x4x8 is turned into 16' of molding! Works great.

Thank you all for your suggestions and feedback..... Brad