Copper trade point NW Iowa find

intensecrasher

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Pretty rare find for my neck of the woods. These are very hard to see in plowed fields! This came from a well documented Mississippian site in NW Iowa. This will be the center piece in my next frame!

P5180005.webp
 
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Pretty rare find for my neck of the woods.This will be the center piece in my next frame!

It looks very similar to a number of them that I have found in Nebraska.

In my region these were NA-made from from recylcled trade items and were generally
made of brass but copper ones were also made.
 
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It looks very similar to a number of them that I have found in Nebraska.

These were NA-made from from recylcled trade items and were generally
made of brass rather than copper.

It has a heavy patina so I am not sure that it is copper. I have other copper items from the same site and they seam to have a similar green patina.
 
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These four examples are made of brass.

Cool! On my above post I meant to say "I think it is made from copper" not "I can be sure it is copper".
 
Cool! On my above post I meant to say "I think it is made from copper" not "I can be sure it is copper".

Yes, it's hard to tell sometimes. Brass and copper can acquire simliar patinas.

If you want to do a test and have a piece of that green patinated metal that appears to
be only a fragmented scrap you could etch a tiny scratch into the metal. If it's gold color
it's brass, if it's a reddish color then it is copper.

In the image: brass on the left & copper on the right
 

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11KBP, a trade item, NA made, era circa 1700's-1800's I would say that a point would have more tinsel strength if made of Brass. Whats your thoughts!
That is a very cool find? Thanks for sharing!
 
11KBP, a trade item, NA made, era circa 1700's-1800's I would say that a point would have more tinsel strength if made of Brass. Whats your thoughts!
That is a very cool find? Thanks for sharing!

It is from a well documented site and those dates are pretty close! I think late 1700s -early 1800s.
 
It well may be worth buying a detector just to look that site. I've looked a trade site and without a metal detector you are lucky to find a few beads. With a detector there were endless good targets. Many tinklers, musket balls, gun parts, silver jewelry, copper or brass points, rings and more. Just a thought.
 
I would say that a point would have more tinsel strength if made of Brass. Whats your thoughts!

If I had a choice to use either a brass point or a copper point I would definitely
use the brass one. Brass is the harder material and will not bend near as easily
as the softer copper.

I want to add that most of the non-ferrous points I have found are made of brass,
however about 10% are made of copper and intensecrasher’s point could very well
be a copper point.

I generally cannot tell what the metal is (copper or brass)by its patinated appearance
but a good metal detector will easily distinguishes between brass and copper on its ID
meter/readout.
 
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If I had a choice to use either a brass point or a copper point I would definitely
use the brass one.

I want to add that most of the non-ferrous points I have found are made of brass,
however about 10% are made of copper and intensecrasher’s point could very well
be a copper point.

I generally cannot tell what the metal is (copper or brass)by its patinated appearance
but a good metal detector will easily distinguishes between brass and copper on its ID
meter/readout.

I would like to go back to this site with a metal detector...What do you recommend that is cheap? I would only use it for this site and am looking at options that are less than $100...Any advice is appreciated!
 
If I had a choice to use either a brass point or a copper point I would definitely
use the brass one.

I want to add that most of the non-ferrous points I have found are made of brass,
however about 10% are made of copper and intensecrasher’s point could very well
be a copper point.

I generally cannot tell what the metal is (copper or brass)by its patinated appearance
but a good metal detector will easily distinguishes between brass and copper on its ID
meter/readout.

A lot of copper has came from this site and it looks just like this point. That is how I based my info. I love it either way!!!
 
I would like to go back to this site with a metal detector...What do you recommend that is cheap? I would only use it for this site and am looking at options that are less than $100...Any advice is appreciated!
Save your money, do not buy a metal detector for less than a $100.00. unless your on craigslist and find a good one that someone is selling for cheap. You are on a metal detecting forum that has an NA artifact category, so the members would have what they recommend. I use a Whites MXT, and bought it for strictly searching historic NA campsites. The controls are easy and I can open it up without discrimination to detect all metals. You are better off renting a good machine when your going out there to search. Many years ago I had a wife that thought she was doing a good thing and bought me a $100.00 detector. I used it to keep peace and show her I appreciated her gift. Talk about a farce, I went out with a few fellow enthusiasts, they were finding metal left and right, and I was swinging a machine in silence. It was an exercise in frustration. I would rather go out and use my eyes than luge around a detector that picks up very little. When someone asks me what to get, I tell them what I use but I also say to rent one first, and make sure you like how the machine operates first before buying. I hope that helps!
 
Save your money, do not buy a metal detector for less than a $100.00.

Chase2 is right. If you are really serious about finding the historic trade metal artifacts
you will need a good metal detector.

Also, you can prevent wasting a lot of time learning how to efficiently use that detector
on historic sites by having an experienced detector user showing you the ropes.
 
You need a metal detector that has an all metal mode. You will want to dig all signals, could be old gun parts, iron arrow points, etc. Good luck, wish I was their to help you. Oh, by the way, great find!
 
Thanks for the advice Chase2, I appreciate your help!
 
I have been doing some metal detector research. What do you guys that use them think of the Garrett Ace 250? I am only going to use the detector on one site (farm field) and have no plans to use it for any other purpose. I want to be able to find brass and copper trade items.

I appreciate your advice on this model!
 
I have been doing some metal detector research. What do you guys that use them think of the Garrett Ace 250? I am only going to use the detector on one site (farm field) and have no plans to use it for any other purpose. I want to be able to find brass and copper trade items.

I appreciate your advice on this model!

The Garret 250 is an inexpensive machine but it will find relics and in my opinion would be okay as an entry level detector. Just remember, you need a lot of hunting hours and patience in learning to use your new detector.

Since you are going to be hunting NA sites use the all metal mode and dig all signals. Do not be concerned as to what the depth readout says …as long as there is a signal just dig until you find the target. Google the Garret 250 and read the treasure hunting forums, you’ll learn a lot. Read the Garret 250 reviews but remember that people selling detectors are also making some of those reviews.
 
The Garret 250 is an inexpensive machine but it will find relics and in my opinion would be okay as an entry level detector. Just remember, you need a lot of hunting hours and patience in learning to use your new detector.

Since you are going to be hunting NA sites use the all metal mode and dig all signals. Do not be concerned as to what the depth readout says …as long as there is a signal just dig until you find the target. Google the Garret 250 and read the treasure hunting forums, you’ll learn a lot. Read the Garret 250 reviews but remember that people selling detectors are also making some of those reviews.

Thank you very much, I appreciate your advice 11KBP!

By the way what does 11KBP stand for? Im asking because I hunt a site that is titled 11KBP in a platt book. :)
 

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