Discriminator VLF 552-D; Looking for users opinions videos and tune advice

[mrhobbeys]

I have this Fisher 552-D, I have the original instructions, it was given to me by my Great Grandpa several years ago. I used it a few times over the years but about 2 years ago the battery holders broke last week I made my own battery pack and am using this once again.

I really want to know more about it. Best tuning practices, best methods for any use of it, best find ever. Does anyone like this better than a modern unit. Possible modifications; can I add a different coil? I am thinking of changing the way it is held so it can be made more comfortable, and I am for sure going to make some rechargeable battery packs but I am in no rush as I have to special order the right type.

Your task is simple if you know about these older machines just start typing

 

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[Sandman]

This is an oldie and not so goodie when compared to todays machines. I knew I used to have one, but thats it. Your better off with a newer model.

Time is the only thing you never get back. Why waste it swinging a detector that isn't up to the task.

 

[mrhobbeys]

This is an oldie and not so goodie when compared to todays machines. I knew I used to have one, but thats it. Your better off with a newer model.

Time is the only thing you never get back. Why waste it swinging a detector that isn't up to the task.

Honestly I didn't want to hear that, I have to make due with this and the very inexpensive bounty hunter Pioneer EX, wal-mart mis-marked it for $29.99.

Have you ever heard of anyone making changes to either of these models to improve them? What's your opinion on the bounty hunter?

Last if I want a detector that can do it all, coin shooting, nugget hunting, and relic finding what is your recommendation (I may not have the money now but will someday).

 

[U.K. Brian]

Wasn't a bad detector for the time though rather heavy and if its all you have then you just have to play to its strengths which is the all metal ground balance mode which should get you musket balls down to a maximum of nine inches.
No G.B. in discrimination as with the rest of the detectors of the time.

A slight threshold hum is essential and in view of the detectors age (mid 70's ?) you may well have drift but at least you have the push button to keep the detector on tune.

I should work on seeing how much you can I.D. in the all metal mode. There should be some telltales like less smooth or broken audio or the double blip whilst running in one direction over iron or iron might just sound wider. I can't remember as I mainly used a Garrett Groundhog and that had coils wound to emphasise the "bigger" sound of the iron.
You should use reverse discrimination when checking targets in the discrimination mode as it will work deeper.

There were other/bigger coils but unless almost being given away myself I would put the money towards a more modern machine. You could put a load of work in and buy other coils then find it packs up one day and you can't get repairs which would be money down the drain.

 

[mrhobbeys]

Thanks U.K. Brian, I think you are right about the age. I am confused on what you mean by reverse discrimination, can you expand on this?

 

[U.K. Brian]

True reverse discrimination needs a discriminating VLF/TR detector with push button (or ADS type) retune.

Search in VLF (all metal) which is the deepest mode.

Locate a target and pinpoint as dead centre as you can and then lower the coil straight down onto the target. Switch to TR (discrimination) mode without moving the coil then lift the coil vertically from the ground a few inches*

If the audio remains the same or decreases its a good target. If it increases its bad. So the opposite of what you have in normal detecting hence "reverse discrimination".

* Some of the detectors respond better if the coil is not lifted vertically but slid to the side a few inches. You just have to try what works best for your machine. Don't get confused with what some call reverse discrimination for modern motion detectors its not the same !