Equinox 800 weight do carbon fiber rods make any significant reduction in weight?

[sgoss66]

To everyone who has commented on this thread about my shafts -- THANK YOU! I'm so glad to have satisfied, happy customers!!

Steve

 

Amazon Forum Fav 👍

Upgraded Night Vision Monocular Digital Infrared Monocular Telescope for 100% Darkness with 8X Zoom - Grab it through Amazon!

[sgoss66]

I do plan on getting a carbon shaft at some point, soon I hope, but no question my 70yr old arm can swing a lot longer with the cg shift. It is the best option until I can get a new shaft.

sphillips -- I see that you really would like a shaft and counterweight, but that money is an issue. I get it. At some point, if you like, please feel free to send me an email (and tell me that you are sphillips from T-Net). I'll get you taken care of, in a way that you can afford. I often have some carbon-fiber tubes available that I consider "seconds" -- i.e. a minor cosmetic blemish or two somewhere on the tube that only affects the aesthetics, not the integrity of the tube. When I have them on hand, they provide a way for me to build shafts for customers at a very nice discount. I'm happy to explore these options with you (and I always send a picture of the "blemish," for the customer's approval prior to any possible purchase).

Thanks!

Steve

email: [email protected]

 

[Megalodon]

I do plan on getting a carbon shaft at some point, soon I hope, but no question my 70yr old arm can swing a lot longer with the cg shift. It is the best option until I can get a new shaft.

I'm 3 and a half years younger than you are and luckily, don't really feel old. That is until I was watching Baywatch and wondered "That looks like a great beach to detect"...

 

[Megalodon]

Steve,

Thank you and I will be in touch by email about a 3-piece with counterweights after studying options on your website (and what are "buttonholes", for example). I like your attention to matching the rods to a customer's individual needs, rather than a "one size fits all" take it or leave it approach. I will enjoy it more knowing it was made for me and not just pulled off a shelf and sent on its way.

 

[sgoss66]

Steve,

Thank you and I will be in touch by email about a 3-piece with counterweights after studying options on your website (and what are "buttonholes", for example). I like your attention to matching the rods to a customer's individual needs, rather than a "one size fits all" take it or leave it approach. I will enjoy it more knowing it was made for me and not just pulled off a shelf and sent on its way.

And I'll be glad to build one, to your specs, Megalodon!

As for the button holes, my advice is that you won't need them. I decided last minute, right before I released my Equinox shafts a couple of years ago, to go ahead and offer a lower rod spring button, and corresponding upper shaft button holes, as an option, for folks who (despite my assurances) remained uncertain as to whether "just" the cam lock could accomplish secure connection of shaft sections (it DOES).

My shaft was designed from the very beginning, with the intent to entirely eliminate any need for the button/button-hole design; that type of supplemental attachment system is ONLY needed, when the shaft includes "light-duty" cam locks, such as the Minelab twist-locks. But, when a shaft is built with a PROPER, heavy-duty, clamp-type cam lock, this renders any need for the button/button holes completely unnecessary -- which then results in a much more "elegant" shaft. What I mean by that is, I think most would agree that having a lower rod spring button, and corresponding button holes in the middle/upper shaft, makes adjusting lower rod extension length, and also installation or removal of the lower rod, a rather tedious/cumbersome process. But, with the button/button holes eliminated (as is facilitated by the use of a properly designed, heavy-duty cam lock), the result is a much more user-friendly, functional design.

Anyway, bottom line, I rarely sell a shaft anymore that includes the button/button hole option. In fact, I'm in the process of phasing out that option. The intent of my shaft design was ALWAYS to eliminate any need for the button/button holes, and as folks have become familiar with my shafts, and the cam locks in particular, I almost never have a customer that requests that option anymore. My cam locks are not only heavy-duty, offering rock-solid, wobble-free attachment of the shaft sections, BUT ALSO, the clamping tension of the lock is entirely user-adjustable. There is a thumb screw on the cam lock that allows the user to adjust clamping tension, thus allowing full control over just how tightly the cam lock clamps the shaft sections. As a result, any need for any "supplemental" attachment security (i.e. the button/button-hole design) is entirely eliminated.

Just let me know, if you have any additional questions. I'm always happy to help.

Thanks!

Steve

 

[sphillips]

I'm 3 and a half years younger than you are and luckily, don't really feel old. That is until I was watching Baywatch and wondered "That looks like a great beach to detect"...

Mentally don't feel old either Meg, though physically am a little slower. My first year of retirement didn't work out to well, went stir crazy, so got a part-time job at the local airport 3 days a week. That helps keep the bones limber. plus the weekend detecting.

 

[Megalodon]

Steve,

Thank you for the clear explanation of the button holes. I agree that a proper cam-lock is the best replacement for them and for the weak outdated twist-locks. I use another tool that has been vastly improved by its maker who replaced the twist-locks with good adjustable cam-locks. At least once a week, I walk a couple of hundred yards to my local beach access and then hike north for about 3 miles along the Calvert Cliffs, known for its fossil grounds. Mostly, I pick up fossil shark teeth (hence the tnet handle of Megalodon) that have eroded out of the cliffs, but the Chesapeake Bay has a quick chop to its waves and often, smaller teeth are washed away by the time you reach down to pick them up. Hence, the scoop called the sand dipper. Once the builder replaced the twist locks with cam locks, I bought a bunch of them so guests can use them when they visit. And since I started using them, and showing off those cam locks, I see more fossil hunters using sand dippers.

Thanks for making this thread so informative.

 

[sgoss66]

Steve,

Thank you for the clear explanation of the button holes. I agree that a proper cam-lock is the best replacement for them and for the weak outdated twist-locks. I use another tool that has been vastly improved by its maker who replaced the twist-locks with good adjustable cam-locks. At least once a week, I walk a couple of hundred yards to my local beach access and then hike north for about 3 miles along the Calvert Cliffs, known for its fossil grounds. Mostly, I pick up fossil shark teeth (hence the tnet handle of Megalodon) that have eroded out of the cliffs, but the Chesapeake Bay has a quick chop to its waves and often, smaller teeth are washed away by the time you reach down to pick them up. Hence, the scoop called the sand dipper. Once the builder replaced the twist locks with cam locks, I bought a bunch of them so guests can use them when they visit. And since I started using them, and showing off those cam locks, I see more fossil hunters using sand dippers.

Thanks for making this thread so informative.

Megalodon -- that is fascinating, about the shark teeth! That sounds like ALOT of fun!

But yes, a proper, clamp-type cam lock, as opposed to twist locks (and the button/button holes that are often included with twist locks, as well), is a world of difference. It's interesting that you experienced that same improvement, with "sand dipper" scoop you are referring to. When you told me you were using "another tool" where twist locks were replaced, in favor of a good cam lock, and you told me you hike 3 miles, I thought you were going to say that the "tool" was a hiking pole. That's another tool that often utilizes a good clamp-type cam lock; there are lots of carbon-fiber hiking/walking poles, and many utilize a good, heavy-duty cam lock instead of the "light-duty" twist locks.

Anyway, thank you for the kind words. I tend to use too many words quite often, when I'm trying to explain things, and I know many folks' eyes "glaze over," LOL! I'm glad though, when someone finds my wordiness in some way helpful.

Thank you!

Steve

 

[Megalodon]

Steve,

Funny that you mention hiking pole. The basket end of the sand dipper unscrews to expose a hardened steel point and then you have an adjustable hiking/walking pole - not a very heavy-duty one, but acceptable for maintaining balance while walking on underwater clay boulders in the winter - when a 3 mile walk home would be uncomfortable after falling in freezing water! All for $27.25 each for the mid-size that I use. I unscrew the basket when I get to the most slippery places and use it for balance on the hard clay, then screw it back on to dip more shark teeth from the sand. I like to have several spares on hand for guests to use.

And I don't think any apology is necessary for a clear style of writing that leaves no doubt about what you are saying!

 

[smokeythecat]

Remember they are water RESISTANT, not waterproof.

 

[sgoss66]

Megalodon --

LOL -- what a funny coincidence, that your scoop actually doubles as a hiking pole, LOL! Pretty ingenious idea, it sounds like!

Thanks, again, for the kind words, LOL! It's always good to know that my verbosity doesn't annoy EVERYONE, LOL!

Steve

 

[Iron Buzz]

Remember they are water RESISTANT, not waterproof.

Which reminds me... have you thought about selling a hollow, watertight version of your counterweight to act as a float for water detecting?

 

[Dirt Duke]

I have a Coiltek 10 x 5" Nox coil coming in this week (hopefully) and that will be a nice reduction in weight by replacing my stock coil.
I am wondering if replacing the stock rods will reduce the weight further by any noticeable amounts?

Anyone have so me experience in this option?

Key word being ?noticeable?, I'd have to say no. I've had a CF shaft for 3 years. I use it when saltwater detecting and go back to the stock shaft for land and fresh water hunting. No ?noticeable? weight difference. My main reason for getting the CF is saltwater will eventually destroy the aluminum shaft even with diligent washing after use in saltwater. If you're a dry land hunter I don't see any weight advantage other than your wallet will get lighter when you buy a CF shaft.

 

[sgoss66]

Which reminds me... have you thought about selling a hollow, watertight version of your counterweight to act as a float for water detecting?

That's not something I've considered; not being a water hunter myself, it's not something I would necessarily thought of. I'm not sure if there would be enough air that could be trapped inside a counterweight-length tube to keep the machine floating, or not...

Interesting.

Steve

 

[Iron Buzz]

That's not something I've considered; not being a water hunter myself, it's not something I would necessarily thought of. I'm not sure if there would be enough air that could be trapped inside a counterweight-length tube to keep the machine floating, or not...

Interesting.

Steve

You don't need to keep the entire machine floating though, Steve. Only enough of the handle so you can grab it.

 

[Ed_DE]

Iron Buzz, I've seen some people attach a pool noodle to the shaft below & above the control pod. I don't know how well that works never tried it. When in shallow water I use my Detector Pro Detecting Pal bungee harness in the water. That way I can let go of the detector & still keep my control pod above water. I'am also a satisfied customer of Steves carbon fiber rods.

 

[sgoss66]

Iron Buzz --

Yep, I get what you are saying. As long as the top portion of the machine floats/doesn't sink, it would be easily "retrievable."

As Ed noted, I too have heard water hunters talk about using pool noodles, though not sure if that's a good solution or not (again, me not being a water/beach hunter).

Steve

 

[pulltabfelix]

Remember they are water RESISTANT, not waterproof.

kinda like the Equinox control head.

 

[Iron Buzz]

kinda like the Equinox control head.

Well, the Equinox is at least supposed to be waterproof.

From Minelab:

Waterproof. EQUINOX is fully submersible, ideal for detecting at the beach and in rivers, streams and lakes. (3m / 10-feet).

 

[Iron Buzz]

Iron Buzz --

Yep, I get what you are saying. As long as the top portion of the machine floats/doesn't sink, it would be easily "retrievable."

As Ed noted, I too have heard water hunters talk about using pool noodles, though not sure if that's a good solution or not (again, me not being a water/beach hunter).

Steve

I do use a pool noodle on my scoop but I think it would be very much in the way if attached to the shaft.