First 90 minutes with the Excalibur11

paul11

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Location
Essex UK
Detector(s) used
Minelab Excalibur 11
Primary Interest:
Beach & Shallow Water Hunting
As this MD is heavy I decided to put it in a Bungee Harness, this was ok but I have a bad habit of pushing the MD out in front of me to far so my arm is still doing all the work and carrying all the weight. After an hour my arm was aching a lot, anyway when I got home I adjusted the Harness and as long as I swing it close to me and let the Harness carry the weight I think it will be fine. I just need a bit of time to get things setup correctly. The Excalibur itself worked great, I used it in pinpoint mode and switched to discrim as I found the targets and it did reject everything it found. It really makes some strange sounds, I got a really high pitch sound that the discrim rejected so I dug it anyway and sure enough it was a new coin that now have tin in them. With the old coins it does not reject them so this is ideal, and to top it all I never saw any rust at all (luxury). Going out again this afternoon for another 2 hours or so and I hope to be better setup for it, so far so good.
 

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Congrats on your first hunt!
Most users go to an aftermarket straight shaft to help with the balance.
There are options that will move the pod under your arm or behind your elbow, and these shafts make a world of difference.
Other options include waist or chest mounting the pod.
Good hunting!
 

Try the hip mount. You'll love it.
 

Check out plugger and anderson straight shafts. Hip and chest mounting place stress on the cables so i would not recommend it
 

Nope, straight shaft with control box behind your elbow and you can go all day long! Got mine from Plugger, or Anderson would be just fine. Don't do a hip mount. You want to keep the cables stress free.

While you're at it, get a knob guard too. Them knobs are too delicate to risk bumping.
 

Try the hip mount. You'll love it.

Don't use a hip mount, the constant flexing of the cables from swinging the detectors causes shorts in the cables, usually close to controls and will require you to have to send it in to be repaired and a costly bill, a straight shaft is the best choice.




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Thanks guys I'm not sure what's available here in the UK but I do like the idea of the straight shaft and if I can I would prefer to keep the control boxes on the shaft if I can. I will have a search and see if I can find these items in the UK.
 

Had a good couple of hours this evening, lots of ring pulls and still no rust. Definitely got to do something about the weight/balance of the MD and then it will be great. Can't find any straight shafts in the UK.
 

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Don't use a hip mount, the constant flexing of the cables from swinging the detectors causes shorts in the cables, usually close to controls and will require you to have to send it in to be repaired and a costly bill, a straight shaft is the best choice.




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DT2016

I respectfully disagree. If done correctly, it can be done without putting stress on the cables. [emoji4]
 

On the Anderson straight shaft I also did this for those times we drop the headphones etc.....View attachment 1360227

Good Luck !!

HH

Dennis
 

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I respectfully disagree. If done correctly, it can be done without putting stress on the cables. [emoji4]
You have no idea how many excals the repair center gets with shorts in the cables even though they added extra strain reliefs, tie wraps, extra rubber straps ect....

A short in coil cable, $150 for new coil, $75 labor, short in headphones $150 for new stock headphones $75 labor, short in power cable $80 parts $112.50 labor. Shorts in all 3 same time which happens a lot, $380 parts $250 labor minimum......

99% of those with shorts in cables use hip or chest mounts...




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DT2016
 

You have no idea how many excals the repair center gets with shorts in the cables even though they added extra strain reliefs, tie wraps, extra rubber straps ect....

A short in coil cable, $150 for new coil, $75 labor, short in headphones $150 for new stock headphones $75 labor, short in power cable $80 parts $112.50 labor. Shorts in all 3 same time which happens a lot, $380 parts $250 labor minimum....

99% of those with shorts in cables use hip or chest mounts...




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DT2016

DA double M !!
 

Anyone have any knowledge with Pluggers strain relief on his hip mount? Good bad or in between?
 

Well I can't find a straight shaft anywhere in the UK so I have ordered the items to make one. I'm stuck on a couple of pieces, what do they call the locking twist connector between the 2 shafts and what do they call the spring loaded bits that hold the control box and battery to the shaft. If anyone knows and could put a link up for them that would be real helpful, thanks.
 

The spring clips are called A-clips, Kellyco sells them for $1.00 each. You don't need the locking nut.




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Thanks, the locking nut was just to stop that bit of sideways play you get as you swing it.
 

Thanks, the locking nut was just to stop that bit of sideways play you get as you swing it.

Custom built both of my excal shafts, didn't use the locking nut and there is next to zero slop in it, the a-clips keeps it locked in place so a 1/4 inch of play really means nothing....
 

Paul, I just pulled mine out of the stock shaft. Most people use 1/4" plastic bolts for the control pod and the spring clip thingy for the battery. The handle is a handlebar extension for a bicycle. The heavy duty armcuff is from Plugger via Fleabay. I bought the aluminum tubing at welding supply house.
The angled handle helps balance the machine out to almost neutral and it hangs on index finger for perfect swinging setup. ImageUploadedByTreasureNet.com1474290152.433465.webp
 

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You can also get the aluminum shafts from a marine supply store, look for aluminum deck handles for brooms and mops.
 

Custom built both of my excal shafts, didn't use the locking nut and there is next to zero slop in it, the a-clips keeps it locked in place so a 1/4 inch of play really means nothing....

Sounds good.
 

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